Addendum(s) to 1st/2nd gear tranny fix

[trbig]

Marty had asked me some questions about moving the washer/spacer for the 2nd gear, so I thought I'd post some pics here explaining it. In the tech tips, TC also goes through this process, so just throwing in a few extra pics to help.

In this first pic, the motor is upside down and the rear at the bottom of the screen. Marked in order are:

A. This is the gear that drives the middle drive

B. 1st gear solid but with raised ribs to accept 4th gear dogs

C. 4th gear with dogs

D. 3rd gear

E. 2nd gear with slots

F. 5th gear with dogs




In the next pic, the gears are on the counter situated in the same way.




The next pic shows the 5th gear dogs slid back to show the slots in 2nd. You can also see the solid 1st gear I mentioned second from left in the pic.




5th gear and dogs removed from the shaft




On the shaft, there is a slot that a spring retaining clip fits in. So looking at it in order, there is the clip, a washer/spacer, and then the 2nd gear.




Here is a closer look. A. is the spring clip. B. is the washer/spacer.




So.... what you need to do is remove the spring clip, and the washer and gear can be removed from the shaft. Upon re-assembly, you'd put the washer on first, then the 2nd gear, then the spring clip goes back on. This will move 2nd gear just a touch closer to the dogs on 5th gear under operation. This has been shown to greatly help avoid future slipping problems.

This may be a bit mundane for some, but hope it helps someone.

Tod

[Jerry]

A variation is to have a machine shop cut a relief in the side of the 2nd gear that faces the clip the same size/thickness as the washer, then add a 2nd washer to the mix...you end up with a washer on each side of the gear. This way the 2nd gear does not ride against the clip, which is a concern for some people. Problem is the washer is discontinued from Yamaha, so you have to find one out of a junked tranny or find another one that fits. I have not found the thread, but a list member made up a few or had a source, will have to search past threads.

Anyway, you still end up with 2nd / 5th gear closer together but the 2nd gear can't rub the clip. When I had the work done on my gear the cost was about $25.00. I had a junked tranny that was the source for the washer. I took the washer to the shop so they could get the dimensions of the 'pocket' correct. Here is a photo of the cut gear:



Only a few people have done this 'extra' fix, but I thought I would pass it along for anyone interested.

[Fearthepack]

Newbie finds 1/8 clearance for tranny repair

Just wanted to share my first time tranny removal and reinstall. I removed and re-installed my counter shaft with gears a dozen times to get procedure down to just minutes.

Worries
1. Does everything have to stay exactly as it is as the cover is taken off...in other words how much can i spin the gears, shift, play move stuff around and it not effect a damn thing... unlike trying to keep everything lined up for correct timing... so everything will go back into its place upon reinstall.

Answer
1. Play all you want. All the gears mesh together so if installed correctly on the shaft they only go in one way. In fact rotating the primary shaft seems to unload some meshing pressure on both removal and install. To be honest I thought nothing could be moved, rotated or everything would be messed up upon reinstall.

#3 Shift fork (the one furthest away from 5th gear) is not your friend. It is in your way on both removal and install.

Counter shaft with gears always gets jammed the last 1/8 inch before coming out and during install. Hell yeah that is frustrating.

Fifth gear hard to get off and on just rotate primary shaft slightly it comes right off and right on after that.

Lets reinstall counter shaft with gears best procedure is as follows:
1. Set the counter shaft with gears installed into case and very important get #3 fork engaged in its place on the shaft.... Now if you try and install you will be 1/8 off and jammed. Crap why why why? You MUST let the driven gear and 1st gear slide almost off the end of the shaft and 1st gear must slide off its bearing that creates the 1/8 inch clearance you need and allows the entire shaft to drop down and line up with hole in case. Now get 1st gear bearing slid back into place and with #3 fork still engaged slide the shaft all the way in opposite #5 gear. Rotating primary shaft if any slight binding occurs will always be your friend.

Removal best procedure is as follows:
1. Slide fifth gear off if binding rotate primary shaft
2. Keep #3 shift fork engaged onto counter shaft and start sliding counter shaft towards fifth gear, when driven gear and 1st slide almost off the shaft and 1st gear off its bearing this will create the 1/8 clearance and now completely remove the counter shaft with gears. Remember any slight binding can be overcome by turning primary shaft.

Conclusion: Finding the 1/8 clearance and how to duplicate it over and over made the job so easy, with out the 1/8 clearance it just binds and curse words will soon follow.

Hope this helps any and everyone.