The Second Gear Removal Procedure

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The Second Gear Removal Procedure
by Ken Talbot

First off, we need to correct a slight misunderstanding. When you have "second gear problems", the problem is actually wear on the three dogs on the inside face of the countershaft fifth gear. These dogs are supposed to mesh with slots in the countershaft second gear. The Black and Decker fix involves undercutting the dogs on the fifth gear, and sharpening up the slots on the second gear.

Before proceeding, also be sure to check out an important addendum to this procedure; the "Important Extra Information" tip in the Repairs/Transmission forum.

Deferring to Clymer's for descriptions of the preliminaries, let us begin.

Preliminaries:

• Drain the oil and remove the oil pan
• Remove the clutch (Clymer's, pages 114 and 118, steps 1 to 15)
  This procedure is shown with the engine partially disassembled. It is not necessary do do so for clutch removal
1. Place the bike on the centrestand.
2. Remove the brake lever and front footpeg (Figure 2).


3. Remove the exhaust system on the right hand side as described under Exhaust System Removal/Installation in Chapter Six.
4. Slacken the clutch cable at the hand lever (Figure 3).
   
5. Remove the 2 screws (Figure 4) securing the clutch release mechanism cover and remove it.
6. Straighten out the retaining clip (A, Figure 5), push up on the release arm (B, Figure 5) and remove the cable from the arm (Figure 6).


7. Remove the 13 Allen bolts (Figure 7) securing the right-hand side cover in place and remove it. Remove the clutch cable from the side cover.
8. Remove the 6 clutch bolts (Figure 8) and remove the pressure plate No. 1 (Figure 9).


9. Remove the 6 clutch springs (Figure 10).


10. Straighten out the locking tab (Figure 11) on the clutch nut and remove the clutch nut with an impact driver and socket.


11. Remove the lockwasher (Figure 12) and spring washer (Figure 13).
12. Remove the clutch boss assembly, clutch discs, and plates and pressure plate No. 2.
13. Remove the thrust washer (A, Figure 14) and clutch housing/primary driven gear (B, Figure 14).
    NOTE: The spacer may come off with the clutch housing or may stay on the transmission shaft. Don't let it fall onto the ground as it may be damaged.
14. Remove the spacer and the 2mm thrust washer (Figure 15).



Picture - right side stripped down.


• Shift the transmission into 4th gear. (This step is critical to getting the correct alignment and free space for subsequent removal of a shift fork)
• Remove the shift mechanism (Clymer's, 124 and 125, steps 1 to 8)
1. Place the bike on the centrestand and drain the engine oil as described in Chapter Three.
2. Remove the exhaust system on the left-hand side as described under Exhaust System Removal/Installation in Chapter Six.
3. Remove the fron footpeg.


4. Remove the bolt (Figure 41) clamping the shift lever and remove the lever.
5. Remove the 9 Allen bolts (Figure 42) securing the left-hand side cover in place and remove it and the gasket.
   NOTE: Remove the ignition wire harness from the 3 clips, and disconnect the neutral indicator switch wire.
6. Remove the shift shaft No. 1 assembly (Figure 43).


7. Remove the circlip (Figure 44) on the shift shaft No. 2.
8. Flip the shift pawl up and out of the shift drum (Figure 45) and remove the shift lever.


Picture - left side stripped down

The removal - Option 1
This will give you free access to the worn dogs on the fifth gear. You can work on the worn slots while second gear is still inside the transmission, but you will need to pay careful attention to removing any metal filings or grinding dust.


• Remove the second circlip on the shift fork shaft (Clymer's, page 127, Figure 53)



• Remove the 3 Torx bolts securing the countershaft bearing housing and remove the housing. These bolts have been loctited in place so it may be difficult to remove them (Clymer's, page 126, Figure 55, Figure 56)



• Withdraw the shift fork shaft until you notice the first shift fork drop slightly. The shaft should be out no more than 4 ¼ inches.
• Reaching up from below with your left hand, push the shift fork up until it is clear of the groove on the inside of the gear.
• Reaching up from below with your right hand, push the gear out of the transmission.



• Let the shift fork drop out the bottom.


The removal - Option 2
This will give you free access to all of the gears on the countershaft. Sharpening the slots on second gear will be cleaner and easier, but this will be offset by more trouble in trying to get the countershaft and all the shift forks back into place during re-assembly. This option is necessary for problems with other gears.


• Remove the second circlip on the shift fork shaft (Clymer's, page 126, Figure 53)



• Remove the 3 Torx bolts securing the countershaft bearing housing and remove the housing. These bolts have been loctited in place so it may be difficult to remove them (Clymer's, page 126, Figure 55, Figure 56)



• Remove the washer/bolt from the end of the countershaft (Clymer's, page 128, Figure 57)



• Withdraw the shift fork shaft completely.



• Remove the loose shift forks.



• Reaching up from below with your right hand, push fifth gear out of the transmission.



• Slide the countershaft assembly slightly to the left, then down on the right, and the whole works will drop out of the bottom.


You are now ready to repair the damaged gears.

The wrap-up:

• When you're done, retrace your steps back to the start.