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Fuse Block Repair Options
by Gary Granger, Bill Kingson, and Mike Hart
Here are 3 different ways I solved the fuse panel problem, and one each from Bill Kingson and Mike Hart...
This was one I made for Ron Lyman's bike, it uses cheap inline fuse holders and uses the larger size modern fuses, the original base is flipped over and the holders are fastened with very small zip ties.
This next one is the one I redid on my 80, again the old block was flipped over and the holders are held on with little zip ties. On this one I used waterproof mini fuse holders. These take the very small modern type fuses. First picture shows all holders closed, next ones shows two holders open to reveal fuses.
I never use solder unless there is no other choice, it weakens the wire and makes it more prone to breakage. I use Amp knife connectors on all my wire splices, crimped with an Amp crimper these connections are guaranteed for life.
If you are really interested in these connectors here is a link to the instruction sheet that comes with the connectors. You will need acrobat reader since it is a PDF file.
http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/T.../21/159122.pdf
Here's Mike Hart's fuse block replacement:
Okay, okay, what can I say, I'm retro, using glass fuses. Besides, I like those slidey-top metal containers they come in.
I did this same 'upgrade' on 3 other XS's. Note, I did this six or more years ago, and it all looks like new (pics from 8/9/02). I like that it's like stock (only better) and fits under the stock Fuse panel cover.
Installation cost was under $4 for a 4-position glass fuse holder from Schuck's (Kragens, etc).
I had to dremel off some rib-like material from the back of the fuse holder to get a good mate to the stock parts and allow the cover to fit.
It fits behind the stock fuse panel cover:
Note the plastic 'channels' that protect the fuse clips from flexing too far. The clips are way beefier than the stock 'dried cake frosting' ones:
I soldered the wires, as there is no flex in this application.
by Gary Granger, Bill Kingson, and Mike Hart
Here are 3 different ways I solved the fuse panel problem, and one each from Bill Kingson and Mike Hart...
This was one I made for Ron Lyman's bike, it uses cheap inline fuse holders and uses the larger size modern fuses, the original base is flipped over and the holders are fastened with very small zip ties.
This next one is the one I redid on my 80, again the old block was flipped over and the holders are held on with little zip ties. On this one I used waterproof mini fuse holders. These take the very small modern type fuses. First picture shows all holders closed, next ones shows two holders open to reveal fuses.
I never use solder unless there is no other choice, it weakens the wire and makes it more prone to breakage. I use Amp knife connectors on all my wire splices, crimped with an Amp crimper these connections are guaranteed for life.
If you are really interested in these connectors here is a link to the instruction sheet that comes with the connectors. You will need acrobat reader since it is a PDF file.
http://catalog.tycoelectronics.com/T.../21/159122.pdf
Here's Mike Hart's fuse block replacement:
Okay, okay, what can I say, I'm retro, using glass fuses. Besides, I like those slidey-top metal containers they come in.
I did this same 'upgrade' on 3 other XS's. Note, I did this six or more years ago, and it all looks like new (pics from 8/9/02). I like that it's like stock (only better) and fits under the stock Fuse panel cover.
Installation cost was under $4 for a 4-position glass fuse holder from Schuck's (Kragens, etc).
I had to dremel off some rib-like material from the back of the fuse holder to get a good mate to the stock parts and allow the cover to fit.
Note the plastic 'channels' that protect the fuse clips from flexing too far. The clips are way beefier than the stock 'dried cake frosting' ones:
I soldered the wires, as there is no flex in this application.