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  • 10w40 synthetic

    ...IS or ISNT a good idea for a rider in Sacramento?

    I couldn't figure it out based on the oil FAQ.

    Thanks in advance.

    -Kris
    Kristoffer
    "Take apart yer carbs!"
    1978 XS1100E - "The Maroon Baboon" (SOLD)
    1979 XS1100 (3 of them) in the garage. Not deserving of names yet.

  • #2
    Oh God, not another OIL THREAD!?

    Hey Knewsom,

    PLEASE, read the info/sticky at the top of this FORUM, about doing SEARCHES!!! If you type in "Synthetic Oil", you'll get more threads and info than you'll know what to do with!!

    What's being in Sacremento got to do with it?? Unless you're hinting about the Stop and Go traffic!?

    It's a general Consensus that FULL SYNTHETIC is not terribly good for our wet clutches, and if you have a marginal clutch, old frictions with worn springs, etc., it could contribute to causing it to start slipping.

    The Synthetics are very much more expensive, and with the amount of heat that our engines generate, it's recommended to change the oil much more often than what the Synthetics say you can go before a change. SO...Dino juice changed every 3K works just as good as Synthetic run for 6k or more, and possibly still not as expensive!
    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Oh God, not another OIL THREAD!?

      Originally posted by TopCatGr58
      Hey Knewsom,

      PLEASE, read the info/sticky at the top of this FORUM, about doing SEARCHES!!! If you type in "Synthetic Oil", you'll get more threads and info than you'll know what to do with!!

      What's being in Sacremento got to do with it?? Unless you're hinting about the Stop and Go traffic!?

      It's a general Consensus that FULL SYNTHETIC is not terribly good for our wet clutches, and if you have a marginal clutch, old frictions with worn springs, etc., it could contribute to causing it to start slipping.

      The Synthetics are very much more expensive, and with the amount of heat that our engines generate, it's recommended to change the oil much more often than what the Synthetics say you can go before a change. SO...Dino juice changed every 3K works just as good as Synthetic run for 6k or more, and possibly still not as expensive!
      T.C.
      heh, yeah sorry, the problem with searching for oil threads is that I found WAYYYYY too much info for me to be able to decypher anything from it, other than there's some controversy about what to use. I've read all the info in tech tips re: oil, but still haven't come to any solid conclusions - By what you say, regular old 10-40 is A-OK to use, or 15-40 is better because it has fewer polymers? (sorry, I can tell there's really no easy answer to this one - for now I'll just go with 15-40 reg.)

      The reason I mention Sacramento, is that it gets rather hot here in the summer, but not too cold in the winter (usually not below freezing).

      Thanks much for the reply - saved me a few $$.
      Kristoffer
      "Take apart yer carbs!"
      1978 XS1100E - "The Maroon Baboon" (SOLD)
      1979 XS1100 (3 of them) in the garage. Not deserving of names yet.

      Comment


      • #4
        I can tell you from experience that I'm not crazy about running any automotive oil in my bike, whether syn or not. The two times I tried it (different bikes) I ended up smoking the clutch while riding hard in 4-5 gear.

        Not saying it'll happen to you, but for about 5-6 bucks a quart you can get motorcycle oil. for a tiny bit more you can get syn motorcycle oil.

        In my eleven right now I have bel-ray synthetic 20w-50 per the Yamaha dealer I work with. I don't really care what brand it is as long as it's good quality.

        Dan
        Home of ENIAC

        Kinda like a MANIAC with 2 letters difference & a computer on board

        Comment


        • #5
          Knewsom,
          I would run 20-50 in the bike. I ride through Sac quite a bit, as my sister lives in Auburn. I use a synthetic blend, with NO FRICTION MODIFIERS in it. I have no problems, and the clutch is still fine.
          As it gets warmer at your location, you will need the heavier oil. Some brands will make the engine louder, so try a few, and stick with the one you like.
          Ray
          Ray Matteis
          KE6NHG
          XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
          XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

          Comment


          • #6
            Re: Oh God, not another OIL THREAD!?

            Originally posted by TopCatGr58
            Hey Knewsom,

            What's being in Sacremento got to do with it?? Unless you're hinting about the Stop and Go traffic!?

            T.C.
            Because TC, the summer temperatures in Sacramento often are in the 100-110 deg. F range. Traffic, we just lane split in California. I'd run 20w/50 in summer at least, might run 10w/40 in midwinter. I'm running 15w/40 (Rotella) year around currently, we have similar summer temps to Sacramento.
            Shiny side up,
            650 Mike

            XS1100SF "Rusty", runs great, 96k miles
            XS650SJ "The Black Bike", engine from XS650H with 750cc big bore kit, 30k miles

            Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out and defiantly shouting, "WOW, what a ride !" - [URL="http://www.flyingsnail.com/Sprung/index.html"]Sprung[/URL]

            Comment


            • #7
              Cheers everyone, for the great info - I think I'll run regular old 10-40 for now (read: about 1k miles until I'm sure all the gunk has been cleared) and switch to 20/50 once it REALLY starts to get hot (about a month from now).

              Drop a line next time yer in Sac - It'd be good to see another XS around here.

              -Kris
              Kristoffer
              "Take apart yer carbs!"
              1978 XS1100E - "The Maroon Baboon" (SOLD)
              1979 XS1100 (3 of them) in the garage. Not deserving of names yet.

              Comment


              • #8
                Sounds like a good plan. Yamaha recommends 20w/40 (which only Yamaha has) so 20w/50 is a good substitute. I'm running 15w/40 Rotella cause it's made for wet clutches and is only $2 a qt. at Kmart. If you ever get over to Lake County, send me a PM and we can hook up. I know where the cool roads arel.
                Shiny side up,
                650 Mike

                XS1100SF "Rusty", runs great, 96k miles
                XS650SJ "The Black Bike", engine from XS650H with 750cc big bore kit, 30k miles

                Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out and defiantly shouting, "WOW, what a ride !" - [URL="http://www.flyingsnail.com/Sprung/index.html"]Sprung[/URL]

                Comment


                • #9
                  sounds good man - I actually do pass through there once in awhile on my way up to Humboldt to see some friends of mine (I'm an HSU grad and still have friends in the area).

                  I think I may just have to head over to K-Mart...

                  -Kris
                  Kristoffer
                  "Take apart yer carbs!"
                  1978 XS1100E - "The Maroon Baboon" (SOLD)
                  1979 XS1100 (3 of them) in the garage. Not deserving of names yet.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Look on the back of the oil bottles. There will be a little donut or circle with writing in it. If it says "Energy conserving" along the bottom of this circle... it's been advised not to use it. But.. again... there's people on here that use it still. Some on here will swear full synthetic works best.. others can't go up a hill with because it slips the clutches too bad. Some run M/C oil best.. others use generic Walmart. I started using the Rotella, like Mike, and have had good luck. Rotella also cleans the gunk really well. You'll notice the oil looking terrible after the first few hundred miles of using it... but it's because it's cleaning as it goes. After the first couple changes (I've drained and added new 3 times in about 2,000 miles, but not the filter) and it is staying clean longer now. Next time.. I change the filter too.
                    Asking what's the best oil... is kind of asking "What's the best way to raise my kids?" Everybody has an opinion... every kid is different... every bike is different. Find what works for you.. but as it's been said. If you run low... ANY oil is better than no oil. Good luck.

                    Tod
                    Try your hardest to be the kind of person your dog thinks you are.

                    You can live to be 100, as long as you give up everything that would make you want to live to be 100!

                    Current bikes:
                    '06 Suzuki DR650
                    *'82 XJ1100 with the 1179 kit. "Mad Maxim"
                    '82 XJ1100 Completely stock fixer-upper
                    '82 XJ1100 Bagger fixer-upper
                    '82 XJ1100 Motor/frame and lots of boxes of parts
                    '82 XJ1100 Parts bike
                    '81 XS1100 Special
                    '81 YZ250
                    '80 XS850 Special
                    '80 XR100
                    *Crashed/Totalled, still own

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