No Charge....

[Geezer]

The volt test was from the red wire in the big plug to ground and it's inpossible to shout it out with the meter on the volts scale...

With that said, if the meter reads at all from the white wires to ground it's bad news...

I still haven't looked it up but 9 ohms on the field coil doesn't sound bad. AI still recomend looking it up. My manual is buried around here some where and I can't find it at the moment.

I'm still making reg/rec units if you need one down the road...

Geezer

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Geezer,

You were closer to the real value in your previous reply of 5 ohms, the book says 3.5 ohms plus/minus 10% or 3.85/3.15 max/min!! SO...9 ohms sounds bit much, but could have some corrosion in the plugs contributing to higher resistance??
T.C.

[trbig]

Man... all these connections and plugs to corrode... Thinking about cutting all the plugs off and solder everything solid!

I didn't check anything else yet... was gonna wait on the stator. Don't know if I even can without that working...

Tod

[Geezer]

Originally posted by trbig
Man... all these connections and plugs to corrode... Thinking about cutting all the plugs off and solder everything solid!
Tod

Don't solder them; it would make the bike a nightmare to work on. Connectors that are bad can be replaced and if you coat the terminals with dielectric grease, they won't corrode down the road.

It's worth the effort to clean and grease every terminal on the bike.

Geezer

[Geezer]

Originally posted by TopCatGr58
Hey Geezer,

You were closer to the real value in your previous reply of 5 ohms, the book says 3.5 ohms plus/minus 10% or 3.85/3.15 max/min!! SO...9 ohms sounds bit much, but could have some corrosion in the plugs contributing to higher resistance??
T.C.

If he's getting reading that far out of spec at the plug to the field, then I'd suspect that it's going bad but not gone yet (will be soon...)

I've got the eMail address for a guy down south that rebuilds stators and rotors. I'll dig it out if anybody wants it.

Geezer

[trbig]

OK... changed the stator and the brushes out with some new (Used) ones. I seem to be charging now, but have lost my tach. Everything else seems to be working fine... just no tach. I only unplugged the two sets of wires for the alternator. What now??

Tod

[trbig]

OK.. went all back through the steps again... here's what I got.


"With the meter in hand, unplug the wires from the alternator. There should be about an ohm resistance between the white wires and infinite to ground. "

I got slightly less than one ohm


"Next test the resistance between the green and brown wires from the alternator. This is for the field coil and should be around 5 ohms."

I got 9 ohms again

"Assuming you've gotten good news from the previous 2 tests, make sure the terminals are clean and plug the connectors back together. Turn the ignition on but do not start the engine yet. Place a .002" feeler gauge flat against the center of the alternator cover. If it is magnetically attracted to the cover, you're half way there. "

I did this and it actually REPELS the feeler gauge!?!?

"Fire up the engine, put the volt meter on 25 volts DC, insert the positive probe of the meter into the back of the plug on the reg/rec unit (still plugged in) and the negative probe to ground. Rev the engine and you should see the voltage rise to around 15 volts at about 4000 RPM."

I got 10.8 at idle, 12.8 revved

"If it’s not charging at this point, the regulator is probably good but the rectifier is probably bad. Unplug both plugs to the reg/rec, set the meter to ohms x1, touch the positive lead of the meter to the red wire and the negative probe to each of the white wires. At this point you will either get continuity or not but it should be the same on all 3 white wires. Reverse the test leads and do the test again and now you should get the opposite results but again the same on all 3 white wires. Now you’re half done, do these to test with the black and white wires."

I put Red wires to white.... nothing either way. Black wires to white, continuity one way, not the other.

As I stated before, I have lost my tach by swapping the stator and brushes. I also saw that my last rotor had been rubbing on the old stator... but only on one part of the stator, and only on one part of the rotor!?!? Almost like the rotor was bent. I can send pics if it helps. I cranked the motor with the rotor off and the crank seems to spin true. Not much but a nub there to worry about bending anyway. Leave it to me to bend a rotor... a solid piece of steel... *Sigh

So what is my next step? Does the new stator appear to be working now? When I have it fired up, I can see the headlight getting a little dim at idle, then brighten up when I rev it.... so I assume it's charging?? The other stator made no change in the headlight when revved.

HELP !!!

Tod

[Geezer]

It sounds like you have 2 problems.

According to my manual the resistance on the field coil should be 3.5 ohms (+ or - 10%) and 9 is way out of spec. It's could be burnt inside. I’m going to be working in the garage tomorrow and I’ll check the resistance on the field coils on a couple of the XS11s that are here (3 are mine and one is in for service.) It’s possible that the specs in the manual are wrong. Clymer got the specs for the CB750~900 wrong in some of their manuals so they may have in wrong in this one…

MY guess about repelling the feeler gage is that the blade is magnetized and the fields are like poles repelling. Try turning the gage over…

Also one side of the rectifier is toasted. You should get flow one way and not the other on both red to white and black to white.

Geezer

[trbig]

I don't know what/where the field coil is.
I just went out and on certain points along the face of the cover, it repels... other spots it magnetizes the feeler. Kind of strange... but cool to see! : ) just around the outside edge of the face plate, it is very strong magnetically versus the face when the key is on.
So I need to order a regulator/rectifier? And what happened to my tach? With the "bad" stator, it was working.

Tod

[Geezer]

I don't know what's wrong with the tach but the stator is probably just fine.

At the least you will need a regulator/rectifier unit and maybe a filed coil (green and brown wires.)

Tony

[trbig]

So is the field coil the thing that holds the brushes that are riding on the face of the rotor? I changed that also when I changed the stator.. figured keep it with it's original rotor. Should I take it back apart and put the original one that was in it back in?

Tod

[Geezer]

I forgot we were talking about an XJ1100 rather than an XS11. The rotor has the field coil inside it. Check the resistance between the copper rings on the rotor.

The brushes would add to the resistance if you check it from the wires.

Tony

[trbig]

Is there any difference in the XS regulator/ rectifier from the XJ's? I thought I read somewhere that they were the same, but that you may have to splice the plugs back back on.

[trbig]

There's a couple XS reg/ rectifiers on Ebay... anybody know if XS and XJ are different? Anybody?

Tod

[DiverRay]

Tod,
Get a unit from Geezer. He builds a SUPER reg/rec., and it's what you want as a replacement, IMHO.
Ray