broken bleeder

[mastan]

I was putting new pads on the front of my XS11 when disaster struck. I wanted to put in new speed bleeder valves. When I tried to remove the left side bleeder, it was very difficult to get it out. The threads on the old one were stripped and when I put the new one in it was difficult. I had to torque it pretty hard, but it went in and sealed. When I went to turn it back out, it sheared right off. Any suggestions would be appreciated.
I called a shop and they said they would attempt to EZ out and retap, but it would be a difficult procedure with no guarantees.
I did a search on e-bay for a new one with no luck. If I am unable to use this caliper, does any one know where I could find one?
Its the front left caliper for a 78 standard.
TIA,
Mark Stanton
78 XS11

[jetmechmarty]

I'm not absulutely positive, but I believe the caliper is the same on the XS750 and XS850 standards. I'm pretty sure the SR500 uses the same caliper and it's on the left. That should help the search. Don't forget the bike breakers at eBay Stores.

While you're searching, I acquired a pair for my XS650. I won't intall it soon, so you may have it on loan.

[Artic_rider]

Same thing happened to me this winter. I just drilled it out with a small bit, and then used an easy out. Once it was out I chased the treads with a tap and presto, new bleeder went in without any hassles. If you have to tools, it's now more then a five minute fix.

[SG-Olli]

Yep,

the Yamaha calipers are all the same in that range of model year, just lefts and rights are different.
And the mounting brackets that are fixed to the fork legs are different. The bolt pattern an dbolt distance is the same, but the width for the brake disc is different. The XSses use the wide slot for 7mm discs.

[mastan]

Thanks Marty:
I checked for the parts numbers and yes the 750 and 850 standards have the same number. Went back to e-bay and could only find one for a 750 special. So, I'll keep looking.
Every other time I search for parts on e-bay I see a dozen front calipers on there. Never around when I really need one!
I gotta get this done before XS East!!
Mark

[andreashweiss]

I have front standard calipers for the xs1100. Left or right send me an e-mail andreashweiss@yahoo.com Ebay is not the only source for parts. andreas

[mastan]

I got a new caliper from andreas and it was in very good condition. (Thanks Andreas). Just to be safe, I got a rebuild kit and new piston from partsnmore and took it to a shop for a rebuild. I just got it home and installed it. I can't get any pressure to bleed the system now. Before I sheared off the other bleeder it was bleeding beautifully on the right side. Now, neither side will bleed. Is it possible that the shop screwed up the rebuild?
Is it possible to screw up a rebuild that badly? When I took off the brake line to the new caliper and squeezed the lever, I got plenty of brake fluid.
TIA,
Mark Stanton

[pathfinder]

Probably not the shop. Air in the system, remove and bench bleed the front m/c. Leaving the bleeders out use a syring prefill the calipers untill it runs out then screw bleeder in both calipers. you should use new washers to put the lines to the calipers. Now refit the m/c and hook up lines. DO NOT MASH the handle in any farther than about half way to the handle bar or you will dislodge the rubber cup inside the m/c (you will then have to take apart to reseat that rubber piece) and have to start over. Under the headlight is a spliter that your brake lines go into, it is notorious for trapping air. I have alway's had to tap it to run the air up to the m/c so it can get out. You'll save yourself alot of time and trouble if you get a hand vacume type brake bleeder. Follow the tech tips at http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread.php?s=&threadid=11 and you will overcome.

[mastan]

I've got a question about using one of those vacume bleeders. Would it work considering I have installed speedbleeders? It seems like it would just suck up on that valve and close it up.
Could you give me a step by step procedure for bench bleeding the M/C? Its 2:30 in the morning and I am agonizing over this! God I hate brake fluid.
TIA
Mark Stanton

[rockjok]

I bought some speed bleeders along with SS brake lines. When I went to bleed the brakes the first time the fluid wouldn't move. Compresses the air I think.

The solution is to attach the mity-vac until the lines are filled then the speed bleeders work great.

Alternatively you can use the old bleeders until the fluid starts to "bleed out" then swap to the speed bleeders.

Rob

[TopCatGr58]

Let it Bleed!

Hey Mark,

I recently replaced my old OEM lines with SS lines. I pulled the calipers off the tubes, and positioned them up almost level with the MC on a box. I put a piece of very stiff cardboard, you may need a piece of wood, inbetween the brake pads to keep the spacing just as big as the rotor. Then I started to bleed the MC and the lines. Took quite a while, found fast pumping the handle three times then holding squeezed, and releasing the bleeder, and then closing it when the handle went almost all the way to the bar, and then repeated. I had a piece of clear tubing fitted over the end of the bleeder valve going into my collector bottle of brake fluid.

One caliper would bleed, but the other didn't!! I finally pulled the bleeder valve out and found that it was clogged! Cleaned it out, and put it back in, and then was able to effectively bleed that caliper. They got nice and tight! Then I removed the cardboard, and fitted them back onto the rotors/forks. This allowed me to not have to fight that bubble at the 1 to 2 junction for the front lines!!

Just did it the old fashioned way, no speed bleeder or mightyvac!
T.C.

[mastan]

Well, it was another exciting day at Stantons garage. I decided to pull off the M/C and bench bleed it.
Step 1: Disconnect brake light wires.
Step 2: Find it impossible to disconnect and end up ripping out and am surprised by a small electrical bullet hitting me in the eye.
Step 3: Mantra: I love old bikes, repeat...
Step 4: Remove brake handle.
Step 5: Snap the bolt connecting handle to M/C.
Step 6: Repeat step 3.
Step 7: Set down the hammer and step away slowly..
Step 8: Come in the house and order a new M/C from parts-n-more.
Step 9: Repeat step 3.

Please stay tuned. I'm sure I'll need some direction when I get the new M/C.
On a more positive note, I did replace the fuse box today with great results!
Mark Stanton

[andreashweiss]

We all feel for ya buddy, Everyone of us has gone out to the shop started pullin wrenches and broken something while trying to fix another problem. It happens. The electrical switch comes out of MC with a small screwdriver. Just push screwdriver into little hole and it pops it loose. I broke one the first time figuring some Yamaha engineer was an idiot for designing something that does not come apart.....

[mastan]

Update:
I got the new front M/C from parts-n-more and it is a very nice unit. Bench bled it and mounted it on the handlebars. I tried to connect the hose and discovered that it was at least an inch short! I tried adjusting the bars up and down to no avail. I could get it connected, but not without stretching the hose. The hose is about 16 inches tip to tip so I'll need to get an 18" hose as a replacement. What are my options at this point?
I would love to replace all the hoses with s/s, but I am so far over budget at this point that its not an option.
One more thing... I have already disconnected the hose, and am wondering how am I going to reconnect the new hose with a torque wrench? There is barely enough clearance to get a socket on that union. Any tips would be greatly appreciated.
I'm looking at my Dennis Kirk book now. They have universal S/S brake lines available, but the sizing is confusing. Should I use the 10mmx1.0 or the 10mmx1.25 for the banjo adapter bolt?
HELP!
Mark Stanton

[jetmechmarty]

Before you buy anything, give this guy a call. He's active on the XS650 email group.

http://www.vintagebrake.com/