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  • Octopus revelation!

    Octopus revelation!

    For anyone who has had octopus problems, or just gave up and bypassed them, check this!

    For months, maybe years, I struggled with fuel leaks from my SG Special, especially when parked. I replaced the float needles with spares (not new) which mitigated the leaks somewhat, but never completely eliminated them. So, I just got in the habit of turning the petcocks to “OFF” and lived with it. I know I need new needles, and I will get them when I know what else I need to fill out my order (from PNM).

    A couple years ago, I had suspected a problem with the octopus, and dismantled it for inspection. Everything looked good, clean as a whistle, no holes or tears in the diaphragm membranes, and the piston and o-ring were perfect. The diaphragm opened and shut properly with vacuum, and it held the vacuum. So I dismissed that as a cause of my leaks.

    Lately, the leaking had become worse. So I pulled everything apart (noticing that there was a couple ounces of fuel in the air box). Before I pulled off the carbs to replace needles, I decided to check the lines (all fine) and octopus one more time. Per the Clymer’s manual test, I hooked the inner lines of the octopus to the rear nipple on each petcock. Then I removed the front fuel lines, turned the right petcock “ON”, and fuel flowed from the other petcock. What the ???

    So, I reasoned there must be a problem with the membranes even though they looked fine, and seemed to work properly.

    I have a spare octopus from a set of carbs I bought off E-bay couple years ago, so I hooked up the spare, crusty, cruddy octopus. It worked fine - no fuel flowed until vacuum was applied.

    Puzzled, I closely examined both octopi. They looked identical, (except for the crud and rust on the spare) until I noticed one VERY small difference. There is a tiny vent channel in the plastic diaphragm block, between the membrane and block, on the hose side of the assembly. It is barely visible in the picture, at the top of the block, by the top fuel hose.

    I noticed that on the spare, which worked fine, this vent was facing down, toward the mounting bracket. But on my original, I must have reinstalled this “sandwich” of block and membranes with that vent pointing upwards, 180 degrees off. I couldn’t imagine it would make any difference but, nonetheless, I reassemble the original octopus with that vent facing down, I tested it again. It tested fine, and there are NO LEAKS! It’s been parked over a week, with petcocks turned “ON”, and not a drop has leaked from the carbs, lines or octopus!

    I still can’t comprehend why it makes difference, but it does! Any ideas why?

    Rick
    '80 SG
    '88 FXR
    '66 Spitfire MK II

  • #2
    "Venting one's frustration"

    Not ever having taken apart an octopus , but having dealt mit many of der leaking petcocks... I shall offer my feeble opinion.
    The vent is to provide a channel to atmosphere behind the diaphram and spring, to allow it to return to the closed position when there is no vacuum applied. Some petcock designs have a channel cut into the plastic block, others have a hole drilled into the vacuum backing plate, with a channel connecting it to a hole behind the spring. Misalign the diaphram, and you may have probs. I've also found that the diaphram's spring tend to weaken over the years, not supplying the proper force to push the piston closed. I've had success with placing a thin shim behind it to give it more oomph.
    XS850 web site people harp constantly about their leaky petcocks and can't find a way to fix them other than replacement. Their petcocks have a little (if I member correctly) spring-loaded ball bearing which acts as a one way air/vacuum check valve. If it gets corroded and hangs up... the petcock stays open. I just removed mine and it now seals perfectly.
    I haven't told them of this cure, as I don't feel that they worship me in the manner to which I am accustomed. Plus, their website is hard to navigate, and I can't be bothered.

    I have one or two octopi around the garage, but seeing how they're off the tanks, I don't know if they'd leak or not, so can't really clown around with them to see if they'd need fixin', or experiment with how to repair them.
    "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

    Comment


    • #3
      Prometheus has nailed it - it is a vent to allow the diaphragm to move back over to cut off the fuel flow when the vacuum stops. The same problem happens with the petcocks on a standard if the wee vent orifice is plugged. In both cases, the vacuum is strong enough to pull the diaphragm back against the spring to let fuel flow. Then the spring is not strong enough to overcome the vacuum trapped behind the diaphragm. For such a small thing that is actually fairly simple to clean and get working properly, special octopi and standard petcocks have cause a lot of grief over the years.
      Ken Talbot

      Comment


      • #4
        Ken and Prom,

        Yes, I figured that channel was a vent to atmosphere. I just assumed that changing its orientation from pointing upward (did not work), to pointing downward (works properly) made a difference.

        But perhaps there’s a simpler explanation. Like, there was something clogging the vent, and it was cleared when I took the assembly apart to change the orientation?

        Or, maybe there was some crud at the o-ring seal that I didn’t notice, and that too was cleared when I took it apart?

        In any event, it works fine now, I scored MAJOR ”attaboy” points with SWMBO for getting rid of that persistent gasoline odor, and I’m not going to take it back apart to analyze it any more.
        Rick
        '80 SG
        '88 FXR
        '66 Spitfire MK II

        Comment


        • #5
          Fixer,
          On the standard the petcocks have the vacume. The vent also lines up with a VERY small hole, and if they are not put in correctly, the hole is plugged. I think that may be the same thing on the octo for the special.
          Ray
          Ray Matteis
          KE6NHG
          XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
          XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

          Comment


          • #6
            Cleaning an Octopus

            Are there any gaskets in the octopus? I want to clean mine but I'm not sure what replacement parts, if any, I need....

            Eric
            Eric Roellig
            1980 SG w Windjammer V & KG hard bags
            **Very first bike**
            Current condition: Running!!! Lead, follow or get the #^%# out of my way!!!!!!

            Comment


            • #7
              "What a fuel I've been!"

              Thanks, Diver Ray, I was gonna make the same comment, but couldn't 'member just what the plastic block and diaphram looked like on an XS without pullin' one o' mine apart. (Some diaphrams have an extra hole, some don't.)
              's why when I do a petcock job, I always put a stripe of fingernail polish across the plates so I can be sure to orient the plastic block correctly. That also stops me from putting the tank back on, only to find that I now have the fuel line fittings facing the wrong way. (Been there... dumb that!)
              "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

              Comment


              • #8
                Eric,

                There are no gaskets, per se. There is a membrane on both sides of the plastic block. The two membranes are connected in the middle by the plunger device, with spring, which stops gas flowing through the assembly when vacuum is not present. The edges of the membranes act like gaskets to seal the “sandwich” between the two metal housing halves.

                Be careful when disassembling. The edges of the membranes can stick to the mating surfaces and tear. Use lubricant like WD 40, and a razor knife to carefully detach each membrane from the metal housing, all the way around the perimeter. If you tear a membrane, and it leaks air/vacuum, the assembly will be no good. I don’t think Yamaha has OEM spares any more, and I believe, from members previous threads, that K&L replacements don’t work - the piston doesn’t move far enough to seal the fuel orifice.
                Rick
                '80 SG
                '88 FXR
                '66 Spitfire MK II

                Comment


                • #9
                  K&L replacements don’t work - the piston doesn’t move far enough to seal the fuel orifice.
                  Right. What I found is not that the plunger won't move far enough, it's that it's manufactured shorter than the original. By about 2mm.

                  Needless to say, that was a very frustrating weekend because on the standards, you have to remove the petcocks from the tank to get enough clearance to disassemble the diaphram!

                  Had to swap the plunger from an old petcock and transfer the o-ring. Damn is everything K&L such a crapshoot, frankenstein mother?

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    "Insane in the membrane"

                    When I was tring to stop my Gas-oil problem, I found that my octo had a tear in the membrane thus not having vaccum.

                    I attempted to reassemble using a silicone to seal the old membrane since I had read about several replacement ones not fitting.

                    That did not work so I just got rid of the octo and replumbed with new fuel lines and in-line filters, works great-I just adopted the habbit of always turning the petcocks to off-now no worries-just takes a second to do, and I don't lay in bed wondering if it is leaking (of course you have to make sure your petcocks are working - and of course there a lots of threads on that subject also)

                    good luck!
                    '82 Xj1100j

                    "Ride for the Son"

                    < )) ><

                    John

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      My fuel octopus leaks. Got used one but no fuel flow

                      Does anyone know how I can get the used one to work? My old one leaks but works. can I fix the leak in the old one? I have a 1981 xs1100 special. part number 3h3-24502-01. thanks in advance... also can I bypass it? if so, how? I checked youtube but no luck...

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Rebuild kits are available. Georgefix on eBay has them. Other vendors have them as well.
                        Marty (in Mississippi)
                        XS1100SG
                        XS650SK
                        XS650SH
                        XS650G
                        XS6502F
                        XS650E

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