Need electrical/charging help

[jaytex1969]

Hello, all. I have an '80 XS1100 with charging problems. I am good with nuts and bolts, but not with electrical. Bike runs as long as battery will throw a spark, but stops after battery is "juiced". Battery is new. Bought "new, used" stator and bike does same. Reg/Rec issue?

I read the Clymer testing description and, being less than proficient with meters, would like someone to simplify the charging system test instructions for me.

I am in Austin, Texas and would even provide beer or coffee and a few bucks for the "live remedial training"

What I have deducted from reading is that the problem is either stator, rotor or reg/rec. Seems the rotors don't often fail, is this correct? Since spark is there until battery goes down, that would eliminate coils problem, right? So, back to stator or reg/rec, it would seem.

Any input much appreciated. -Jay

[jaytex1969]

Second search more productive

I just read the electrical portion under the repairs segment and got half the info I need.

Question for the electric guru's. When stator wires connected, it sez green should read 1.8v +/-. That's from green to frame, right?

[skids]

Re: Second search more productive

Green? Someone help him because that just does not seem right. Going from memory (bad), I think that the green wire goes to the field coil. One symptom that things are amis is that when the bike is running, the tachometer quits. That happens when the field coil doesn't get current from the rectifier/regulator unit. Another thing to try is to turn on the key and hold iron neer the right engine case cover (alternator cover) to check for strong magnetic field. There are some big clips behind the fuse panel...one with 4 wires (three white and a yellow) and one with the two wires to the field coil. The clips can get corroded inside and can actually melt if they begin arcing. I would check those connections.

Originally posted by jaytex1969
I just read the electrical portion under the repairs segment and got half the info I need.

Question for the electric guru's. When stator wires connected, it sez green should read 1.8v +/-. That's from green to frame, right?

[TopCatGr58]

Sometimes regulation is good!

Howdy(Texan for 'Hey') Jaytex,

The manual states that for this test, which is with the connectors 'connected', the positive lead is on the green, and the negative test lead is to the BLACK wire, not necessarily just to frame/ground!

Since you have a test meter, turn it to ohms, unplug the connector, and test across the brown and green wires for the field coil, should get 3.5 ohms + 10% at 68 degrees.

On the stator coil, check across all combinations of the 3 white wires, each pairing should get 0.4 ohms, same tolerance!

IF these check out okay, then the likely suspect is the REG/RECT!
Geezer sells an aftermarket plug and play unit guaranteed for life, and also should charge stronger at lower rpms than oem. Check out the products review forum. His sell for a touch under $100.

It's still available from Yamaha, Bike Bandit has it :
4: RECTIFIER/REG ASY 13130-001 $155.21

I know PNM sells a Generic one, but haven't heard of anybody getting one, or getting it to work, it doesn't come with plugs, looks like you'ed have to wire it yourself!?

BTW, are you running a bunch of extra lights? The REG/RECT's can fry even under normal loads, but lots of extra lights can really stress it!!
T.C.

[jaytex1969]

Nothing extra on this bike that requires power.

I did note on my last spin around the block the headlight was also not working. Any possible connection?

[TopCatGr58]

A light in the darkness!

Yes,

When the charging system is not working, there is no signal being sent to the latching relay to turn ON the headlight!! So...fix the charging system and your headlight should return!
T.C.

[Geezer]

The power to the field coil is a little different on the XS11. Full battery power (from the brown wire) goes to one side of the field coil (rotor as you're calling it but it doesn't rotate on the 80 XS11) and the green wire goes to the voltage regulator. As needed the regulator grounds the curcuit to power up the field.

The first thing you need to do is make sure the connections to the field and stator are clean.

Next see if you're getting full battery to the field. Unplug the connector to the alternator and on the harness side, check the voltage from the brown wire to ground.

On the alternator side, check the resistance between the white wires (stator) and the green and brown wires (field) and compair these readings to the specs in the manual. You should be able to diagnose if the stator or field is the problem in about 5 minutes.

You can find more info here...
http://www.OregonMotorcycleParts.com/FAQ.html

Geezer

[webbcraft2150]

Hey jaytex, I am in Austin Texass also. Will trade meter work for drink. Lemme know.

[jaytex1969]

RE: Meter work

Hey, Webbcraft. I sent you a pm, not sure if you got it. I'm off ther next 2 days. Gimme a call, if you have the chance. Thanks. -Jay 512-415-3173