alternator rotor removal-help

[portero72]

CAN NOT get this thing off-already removed cover and bolt(seal is leaking, needs replacing). rotor will not budge. 2 bolts bent/destroyed trying to pull it off with a 3 jaw puller. also nicked rotor itself on the outside. starting to get concerned. don't want to ruin the rotor, also time is an issue. leaving for a big trip on saturday. any ideas?

[TopCatGr58]

First, you could go to your local auto parts store, where they usually loan out tools for rare jobs, like a decent sized pulley puller!

Secondly you could get a torch or heat gun and try heating up the rotor to help it expand around the shaft. Also may need to try squirting some penetrating fluid in around the bolt!?

As for damaging the rotor...good luck, it's just solid steel, you might scratch it's surface, but that's about it!

Otherwise, take a few extra quarts of oil with you on your trip!
T.C.

[xssiveone]

It's been a LONG time since I had to pull my rotor, but if I recall correctly, after you remove the bolt from the end of the crank, you should see threads on the inside of the rotor. The center bolt of my 3 jaw puller happened to be the same size thread. Thread it in tight against the end of the crank, wack with the hammer, thread in tight again, and eventually it came off. Mind you, it ALMOST took my nephews head off as it literally flew off the crank end!! Just use the bolt, don't need the jaws at all.

[trbig]

When I pulled mine, I used a 3 jaw. I left the center bolt in and just backed it out a few threads, and tightened the puller's bolt against the head of that. After you snug it up really good... take a hammer and give the puller bolt a good shot. Don't go He-man on it... just a good hard tap. Tighten the puller bolt a little more... Tap. After a few times, it should break free. This sharp jolt usually breaks stuff free when straight pulling won't. I didn't think I was doing much, but then I checked and noticed that the bolt holding the rotor wasn't loose any more... meaning the rotor had backed out some. I screwed the rotor bolt out a little more and repeated the process. The crank is tapered, so after the rotor finally moves, it shouldn't take much. If you can get enough oomph on that puller to bend the bolt, you shouldn't have a problem getting that thing off like I said. Good Luck.

Tod

[Winterhawk]

FLYWHEEL PULLER - M16 X 1.5 R.H.


Honda: ATC90, ATC110 with breaker points, CB175, CT90/350G/360/ 500/500T, CM185/200T/450, CMX250, early CR125/250MX, SL175/350Kawasaki: KH400A, KLF300 86-87, KLT110/200, KX125/250/420/500pre-81 models, KZ1000/1300 & Z1Suzuki: GS550/650/750/Early 1100 & most 4-stroke street modelsYamaha: Most 4-stroke street models & 250/350 electric start 2-stroke twins, FZ600,FZR600/750/1000, TT225, XJ550/650/700/ 750/900, FJ600/750/1000

$9.90 Part # 08-0027 FLYWHEEL PULLER, M16x1.5 RH
http://www.motionpro.com/parts/tools...16_x_1.5_r.h./

[portero72]

got it done, gents. had to hire a pro w/ air tools, tho. seems the threads inside to rotor were damaged. now they're gone. but its done, seal changed, appears to be oiltight, wish me luck. hope i never have to do that again, cos i doubt it'll come off...