I have taken the wire keepers off of the new needles to fix a flooding problem in #3 carb. That seems to have worked. There is now a miss, a slight pop, and my synching has revealed it is in the #3 carb (the vacuum drops when the pop occurs). I don't know if it is still a carb problem or a coil problem. I don't know how an intermittent miss could be a carb problem, but the more I work on this bike, the less I know...any ideas?
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A new miss...carbs or coils?
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Yeah, Randy, #3 plug was very sooted up; I cleaned it, but the symptom remains. It was a new plug and has only a few miles on it. I wonder if there might be a plug wire or plug cap problem..."Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."
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Could be, but why would it pop only on deceleration? Maybe that carb's float is too high or maybe the idle screw needs to be adjusted inward a scoush. Will it foul the plug when idling in the garage?
Originally posted by LoHo
I wonder if there might be a plug wire or plug cap problem...Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Skids, that IS in the garage, idling. It isn't deceleration, as I would understand that. It is just an intermittent, soft pop at idle, and #3 loses vacuum on the gauge when it happens. It isn't rhythmical or throttle sensitive. I don't want to take the newly rebuilt carb off again if it is an electrical problem. The note above about the coils affecting two cylinders is helpful; I am glad to eliminate that. I think I'll make sure of my spark plug wire and cap next, to eliminate that."Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."
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loho,
if you have a timing light, hook it to the #3 wire and if it shows the mis-fire then the plug isn't firing and your problem is electrical (cap, wire, plug).
If the light doesn't show the misfire, then the plug is firing and your problem is carburetor
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Oh, gotcha. I must have been thinking of my own prior experiences. If it turns out to be a carb adjustment, it will be easy enough. Just try to keep tabs on the amount of rotation for adjustment...just in case that does not work either.
Originally posted by LoHo
Skids, that IS in the garage, idling. It isn't deceleration, as I would understand that.Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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Randy, that's a good idea. Pardon my ignorance, but simple electronics works here, right? For instance, if I hook the timing light to the wire, and the miss is a lack of spark, the miss will show up as no light, because there is no spark without the good ground of the plug. Let's say the cap is loose from the wire and sometimes opens the circuit; there will be no spark pulse down the wire because of the open circuit, right? If the coil is sending a spark, but the cap is loose, there is no pulse down the wire, right?"Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."
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Take the plug out of #3 and put it in another cylinder, and see if the problem follows the plug. Sooty plugs fire across the insulator, instead of the gap.
Steve80 XS1100G Standard - YammerHammer
73 Yamaha DT3 - DirtyHairy
62 Norton Atlas - AgileFragile (Dunstalled) waiting reassembly
Norton Electra - future restore
CZ 400 MX'er
68 Ducati Scrambler
RC Planes and Helis
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Steve, Randy, Skids, et al, thanks for the help. I switched the plugs and snipped back the wire, and then synched the carbs again. All is now well. I may have the ugliest vacuum advance wiring in the nation, but it works and the bike runs great. Now I can promote a get together, as I attended my last Rally in a Suburban and was shunned by the faithful.
There is no resource like this list anywhere. Where else could one ask a question about a 25-year-old bike and have a dozen replies (and pictures posted, if Talbot is about!) in an hour. What a blessing!"Time is the greatest teacher; unfortunately, it kills all of its students."
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