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Hello,
i use it on some fasteners, but never on spark plugs. Spark plug makers go to great lengths to make plugs that will not corrode into the head. I have fixed cars where people have used too much anti-sieze and caused the cylinder to misfire. I use a lot more locktite than anti-sieze.
Tip: Fill and old Frenchs mustaed jar with antisieze. this works much,much better than the brush. Less of a mess
After starting a simple tune-up on my wife's '68 Mercedes 250S (gangster car), and ending up doing a head job because a spark-plug broke off in the head and could not be removed with anything short of a machine shop, I use antiseize on spark-plugs too . . . if they are into an aluminum head at least.
What should have been a 20 minute job turned into a two week ordeal, and that included about 20 hours of wrench time.
CUAgain,
Daniel Meyer
Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
Find out why...It's About the Ride.
I like the applicator tip. I use the stuff on spark plug threads. Steel + aluminum + heat + time = stripped-out plug hole. I had to helicoil one. Sid Clark did too.
Originally posted by Bill__Woods Hello,
i use it on some fasteners, but never on spark plugs. Spark plug makers go to great lengths to make plugs that will not corrode into the head.
Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
Originally posted by Jean Luc I use Copper Anti-Sieze on any steel bolt touching aluminum. It makes life a WHOLE lot easier the next time the assembly need to come apart.
What is the main difference between types of anti-sieze compounds? Dad used copper because that was what he used at work. In the repair shop at MY work, what they use looks to be aluminum as it is almost silver in colour. Anyone know what advantages/disadvantages of the different types?
Brian
1978E Midlife Crisis - A work in progress
1984 Kawasaki 550 Ltd - Gone, but not forgotten
A married man should forget his mistakes. There's no use in two people
remembering the same thing!
Just did something REALLY radical and "looked at the container"!! Sorta feels like (R)ead (T)he (FRIENDLY) (M)anual... It's a nickel/graphite composition that is used in areas where exposure to high (2400F) and acids are likely to be encountered.
Brian
1978E Midlife Crisis - A work in progress
1984 Kawasaki 550 Ltd - Gone, but not forgotten
A married man should forget his mistakes. There's no use in two people
remembering the same thing!
I use anti seize anytime I have disimmilar metals together,and where high heat and corrosion are a factor,,,over much of the Motorcycle this is the case. So everytime I take something apart it gets a little treatment. Except in the carb area, not necessary in my experiance. YMMV
Ken Krieger
Chesterfield, Va.
81 XS1100SH - Radar Rider
82 XJ1100J - Black and Blue
82 XJ1100J - Bucket o Bolts
79 XS1100SF - Road Raider
1980 XS1100 - Frankenbike
85 XJ700 Maxim
06 VMax - Black Max
85 650 Nighthawk
I have worked the last 20 years as a mechanic and use it anytime I have dissimilar metals joining (ie. steel screw into aluminum) and also anywhere moisture and corrosion can be a problem (almost anywhere on a motorcycle). Living in the "snow belt" I can't guess how many hours I have wasted freeing corroded nuts and bolts.
I find the silver colored Loctite brand to be the best, but if you have the copper use it, it is much better than nothing. In a pinch toothpaste also works surprisingly well (not gel type).
I do not recommend using it in critical places where lock nuts are required such as axle nuts and motor mounts.
I have a can of "nuclear grade" nickel never seize that went home in my lunch pail about 25 years ago. I put a slight dab on spark plugs and not much else.
Rocky
00 Cagiva Gran Canyon
80 XS11 Special -sold
77 HD Sportster
75 Norton Commando
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