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  • steering head bearing races

    Hi,

    Does anyone know the part numbers for 80 SG XS1100 Special Steering Head Ball Bearing Races?

    TIA
    Tim
    80 XS11 Special

  • #2
    You can find that part no., and any others, at this site:

    http://www.benefiscal.co.uk/ps.php
    Rick
    '80 SG
    '88 FXR
    '66 Spitfire MK II

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    • #3
      I recently bought a set of tapered bearings from Partsnmore (PNM). The cost was around $40. The Timkin P/N is: X32005X for the upper bearing, and the race is Y32005X. The lower bearing is: X32006X and the race is Y32006X. I had a very difficult time locating one of them at the bearing supply companies around here. I would recommend the kit from PNM. Removing the old races can be hell. There is really no way to get a punch on the edge of the race to knock it out. What I have done to three different frames is to get a deburring tool in a die grinder, and just grind away at the race AND the inside of the steering head where the race bottoms out until there is enough material removed from the race and it can be rotated by whacking it with a chisel. The material is very hard, and will probably chip the edge of the chisel. Then a punch can get on the edge of the race where it has rotated and it can be knocked out. Once out, make sure you have a good, deep groove cut in the steering head with the die grinder that will allow you, or the next poor SOB that has to do the job, to do the job much easier. The lower bearing can be hell to remove from the shaft also. I had to drive the last one off with a hammer and chisel. Make sure to pack the bearings with grease before installing them. One hint to make installing the races a little easier; Chill them in a freezer for an hour or so before installing them. They will fit much easier. You can also use the old races to drive the new ones in with. The kit from PNM also included the seal for the lower bearing.
      Last edited by John; 01-05-2006, 09:17 AM.

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      • #4
        "Ooh, such racey language!"

        Before using the old races to help press in the new ones, take them to a grinding wheel and thin the outside diameter a bit, lest it get stuck in the steering head with the new race.
        "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

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        • #5
          i have just got top and bottom bearings and the part no are 325505 for the bottom one and 324705 for the top one,they cost £35 (LET YOU WORK THAT OUT IN TO $) just still tring to get the old ones out.what i did find out is there are so many part no for the same parts,just depends on the place that makes them....

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          • #6
            Most bearing manufactures use an industry standard when it comes to P/N's for bearings. The bearings that I got from PNM weren't Timkin brand, but the P/N was the same, except the X suffix had been dropped. I was told that he suffix meant it was metric.
            Prom, by the time I had the races ground through, there was a split in the race, and it would contract easily, and should it get stuck while driving in the new race, it could be easily driven back out, as plenty of the thicker part of the top of the race was exposed below the bottom of the new race.
            I have had to do this mod on the steering head tube on every XS11 that I have changed the steering bearings on.
            Scoobes, are you talking about tapered roller bearings or ball bearings?

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            • #7
              Scoobes

              Did you get those bearings from a bike shop? they are usually much cheaper from bearing suppliers. I paid £25 for a pair 18 months ago.

              They'll still be half that price in the U.S.
              Last edited by Trikerneil; 01-06-2006, 12:13 AM.
              Triking - it's a way of life!

              www.trikenest.co.uk

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              • #8
                Another option to grinding the outside of the races is to cut them thru with an angle grinder or a dremel with a cutoff disc. Once the new races are seated, simply squeeze the old races with a pair of pliers and lift them out.

                This was also the method I used to remove the bottom bearing from the tree. Broke the cage and took the rollers off. Then cut almost thru with my dremel and cutoff disk. Inserted a chisel into the groove and a good whack broke the bearing at that point.

                As for removing the old races from the neck, I've heard that a lot of shop mech's heat the neck with a heat gun to expand the neck slightly. I'm told the races will almost fall out after a few minutes. I've never tried this method, so can't confirm or deny it.
                Brian
                1978E Midlife Crisis - A work in progress
                1984 Kawasaki 550 Ltd - Gone, but not forgotten

                A married man should forget his mistakes. There's no use in two people
                remembering the same thing!

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                • #9
                  Thanks

                  Thanks for the help. I got exactly what I needed here (once again). This is the internet performing at its finest.

                  Tim
                  80 XS11 Special

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