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  • Another turn signal issue

    For those of you who have worked on the turn signal switch did you have to totally disconnect the wiring from the harness or is there an easier way to deal with it?

    My situation is this:

    with the engine running I have signals that blink on the left side but on the right side the front doesn't light up and the rear comes on but does not flash. Now when the engine isn't running with the key in the on position the left rear and front light up but don't flash and the right front still will not light up and the rear won't flash.

    I have checked and cleaned all connectors in the wiring harness and have sprayed out the switch with contact cleaner with no positive results so it seems that I need to disassemble the turn signal switch. Any input would be greatly appreciated.
    80 XS11 SG
    79 XS750 SF
    74 KZ400
    78 KZ650
    78 KZ750

  • #2
    Hey CUBuffs,

    You've got a grounding issue or power issue as to why it won't flash the left side with just the key on, but bike not!

    You need to check the wires inside the headlight bucket, follow the wire from the right turn signal, may have come unplugged, or corroded in there!? Also, recheck your ground for the right front signal as well as possibly check for power to the socket when the signals are turned on!
    T.C.
    T. C. Gresham
    81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
    79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
    History shows again and again,
    How nature points out the folly of men!

    Comment


    • #3
      Re: Another turn signal issue

      It would seem to me that the switch is working, although a good cleaning never hurts! I say that because the switch is simply a momentary switch...if the bulbs come on, it did its job.

      If a filiment in a bulb is blown, that side will not draw enough current to make the signals on that side blink. A weak battey will cause the blinking to be slow or even quit when in idling rpms (these bikes have weak charging systems and can't compensate for weak batteries at low rpms). If you didn't clean the bulb sockets and contacts, go for it. The grounds under the rear fenders are always a suspect for weak contact (what was Yamaha thinking!). Also, pull the blinker element that is under the right cover, and clean those blade contacts. Hope that helps...
      Skids (Sid Hansen)

      Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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      • #4
        .. yep, im going with the blown bulb or a power wire or ground wire loose also.. its usually just the bulb
        .. and also what skids has said about the charging system also,
        my signals dont flash with the motor off either

        Comment


        • #5
          Check the bulb socket for corrosion also. Might need a good cleaning.

          Steve
          80 XS1100G Standard - YammerHammer
          73 Yamaha DT3 - DirtyHairy
          62 Norton Atlas - AgileFragile (Dunstalled) waiting reassembly
          Norton Electra - future restore
          CZ 400 MX'er
          68 Ducati Scrambler
          RC Planes and Helis

          Comment


          • #6
            It was such an aggrivation to me that, in two of my three xs11's, I installed electronic flashers. Now they blink a little too fast, and I have to manually cancel the signal,but at least they blink. The remaining sx11 is an E that has a non standard flasher unit and I have never had problems with it--even with a low battery.

            Originally posted by GNEPIG
            .. yep, im going with the blown bulb or a power wire or ground wire loose also.. its usually just the bulb
            .. and also what skids has said about the charging system also,
            my signals dont flash with the motor off either
            Skids (Sid Hansen)

            Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

            Comment


            • #7
              Thanks for the tips guys. I know that the socket for the right front (the one that won't light) is very clean and I have changed the bulb for it. Are you saying that it's possible for one of the other sockets to be causing a problem?

              Also, can the ground for the working light be causing the problem for the one that won't light up? Thanks.
              80 XS11 SG
              79 XS750 SF
              74 KZ400
              78 KZ650
              78 KZ750

              Comment


              • #8
                Part 1: No it is not possible for one of the other sockets to be causing a problem of not lighting it up. All bulbs on a side must pull there weight in order for the stock blinker element to work. It needs the amps! Test that socket for volts. One contact will be for the runner light and one for the blinker. Be sure and compare the ground at the side of the socket with the ground of the bike's frame.

                Originally posted by CUBuffs
                Thanks for the tips guys. I know that the socket for the right front (the one that won't light) is very clean and I have changed the bulb for it. Are you saying that it's possible for one of the other sockets to be causing a problem?

                Also, can the ground for the working light be causing the problem for the one that won't light up? Thanks.
                Skids (Sid Hansen)

                Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                Comment


                • #9
                  I assume we are talking about your 80 Special? In that case you also have to check out the hazard switch too. Lots of people have problems with bad solder joints at the switchs. One of terminals corroded off almost completely on my hazard switch. Lots of water bugs and other corrosives can get in though the hole for the knob under the bars.

                  Steve
                  80 XS1100G Standard - YammerHammer
                  73 Yamaha DT3 - DirtyHairy
                  62 Norton Atlas - AgileFragile (Dunstalled) waiting reassembly
                  Norton Electra - future restore
                  CZ 400 MX'er
                  68 Ducati Scrambler
                  RC Planes and Helis

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    I had a similar problem with my XS650SJ except it was inconsistant and sometimes would work fine but mostly not. I had the handlebar switch apart for the 8th time and since the sun had gone down it was starting to get dark. That's when I noticed a tiny spark as I cycled the switch with the key on. A tiny square of electrical tape cured this little short and it's been fine since. The handlebar switch of the 650 is identical to an 11. Electrical gremlins can sure be frustrating.
                    Shiny side up,
                    650 Mike

                    XS1100SF "Rusty", runs great, 96k miles
                    XS650SJ "The Black Bike", engine from XS650H with 750cc big bore kit, 30k miles

                    Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out and defiantly shouting, "WOW, what a ride !" - [URL="http://www.flyingsnail.com/Sprung/index.html"]Sprung[/URL]

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                    • #11
                      Sorry, I also have an XS 750SF which is having the signal issue. Would I be correct in believing that the switch is the same as on the 650 special?
                      80 XS11 SG
                      79 XS750 SF
                      74 KZ400
                      78 KZ650
                      78 KZ750

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        The switches on a XS 750 should be the same as the XS. Those are a common, off the shelf item for the whole XS series. Same as the turn signals stalks, and the tail lights for the 79 SF. My tail light came from a 79 650 SF, and the headlight ears and bucket are from an 850 SG.

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