Aussie RH

[skids]

I agree with pggg 100% Since you had to remove the carbs again anyway, start at baseline for everything and begin any adjustments from there after road testing.

Originally posted by pggg
Wink, set carbs as per factory specs and things should be sweet. As your carbs are the later type make that float setting 23mm rather than 25mm. Pilot air 180 or 185. Pilots 42.5 - 45. Mains 110 - 115. Needle in centre notch - although your later needles are most likely unadjustable without shimming anyway. I'd slap a washable metal mesh K&N filter in the airbox too.

[winkel02]

vacuum advance

hi all,

another development. something i didnt ever post was that the bike would really run out of grunt around 5-6k...i knew the PO had plugged the vacuum advance hose from #2 carb and so assumed that was the cause. opened it up today and found the PO had lost/removed/destroyed the part on the advance that the hose plugs onto (diaphragm assy on the fiche). got a new one from the wreckers pretty cheap, but have a question. now, so im clear, the part i got from the wreckers is the diaphragm assy and the disc it rotates...pretty much the whole pickup base, except minus the pickups (as i already have them on my bike...left them there while i removed this part)...i will post pics tonight, my camera is out of batteries right now.

As mine is an '81, the timing is not adjustable. The part i got from the wreckers IS adjustable (ie. the screws that hold it run in oval tracks, allowing movement about 10-20 degrees either way. So this is a part from a earlier model yeah? A sideeffect of this, is there is a notch in the centre hole, for the 'timing plate' (#11 on my fiche) to fit through. This notch is smaller in this earlier part, than my later model's timing plate's projection.

Now, the pickups are something i know nothing about YET, but commonsense tells me the timing plate is what the pickups sense, to detect crankshaft rotation yeah? So if i have to get these 2 parts to fit, i should be ok if i cut/file out the notch in the disc, until it is large enough to let the timing plate through?

As i said, i will post pics which should make my question clear, but wanted to stimulate thought while i wait for my camera to charge.

Thanks.

Winkel

[winkel02]

pics

So here are the pics of my advance unit and rotor.






You can see the rotor has a large rectangular protrusion which must pass through the notch so the whole lot fits together. The notch on this part from an earlier bike is too small.

Anyone comment? Can i use this and just file out the notch till it makes it through?

[pggg]

Wink, is that thick looking thing even off an XS11? Do you have the thinner one?

[Ken Talbot]

You've certainly got parts from two different units. A complete '81 setup looks like this:


You're not going to do any harm to the plate by filing a larger notch as long as you bear in mind the location of the screw shown in the photo just next to the corner of the notch. I would say go ahead and give it a try

[winkel02]

Latest

Hi all,

Am loving having this forum to discuss my bike and read other discussions, so here's an update:

Put in new 110's, new pilot jets, and checked float heights. Surprise surprise they were around 21mm, so have reset at 23mm as per factory. Vacuum advance is about to have the notch enlarged so i can fit it to the bike, and so with luck it will be running for a test ride tomorrow.

Exciting stuff. Fingers crossed the richness is less of a problem, or no problem, now.

Cheers all,

Winkel

[pggg]

Sounding good Winkel. Reckon you'll be checking the plugs soon to see what's happening. Check this link that T748 found. At last, something that backs up what I've been ranting and raving about for ages. WHITE INSULATORS DON'T MEAN THE MOTOR'S RUNNING LEAN!!!

Seems a lot of bike owners, upon seeing the plugs are white, start tweaking and adjusting by shovelling in extra flows of petrol, in the process knocking the edge off performance, killing fuel economy, and carboning to hell the combustion chamber, valves and exhaust ports.

I assume the Oz petrol is similar to the evil mix of rancid chemicals they force feed us down here. Here's a pic of one of the plugs I'm running at the moment. The one on the right. It's about 18 months or so old. Took them that long to dull down to that colour from new. Plug on the left is what they looked like for over a year of running. Floats or jets haven't been touched over that period.

[pggg]

748's link. http://cochise.uia.net/pkelley2/sparkplugreading.html

[winkel02]

thanks pggg

Cheers, I have seen that site before (was checking it out today actually).

So i got the bike running - started first go, easiest its ever started...so i was stoked that i must have put it together alright.

Went for a bit of a ride, at various throttle openings up hills and down hills and on straights, varying between 10km/h to 120km/h. After half an hour it began telling me it was still rich, by the way it was running and the lack of power...

Pulled the plugs when i got home and 1, 3 and 4 were sooted up badly, though not as bad as before. 2 is showing a slight tan on the ceramic, so im hoping im close on that one cylinder at least.

Before diving back into float heights though, im waiting to get my timing light back, because when i fitted my new vacuum advance, it was just roughly put on - my 81 had no adjustment on the advance...put on a unit from a 78/79 (cos thats all the wreckers had) and that has the ability to be altered. So will get the timing right and read the plugs again before i fiddle with the mix.

Also have the Emgo filters on standby in case the richness cannot be solved with float heights alone, along with a set of 112.5 mains (1 size bigger), to experiment.

Can anyone comment on the danger of overheating my engine if i whack the emgo's on with no other adjustments? Bearing in mind it is set up stock now, with 4 to 1 exhaust and is still running very rich.

Will re-post further developments in a week.

Everyone have a merry christmas!

[DiverRay]

If you have 4 into 1, and are still running rich, I don't think you'll do much harm with the Emgo filters. I was helping eliberty with his XS, and put in a different set of carbs. His old carbs had 145 mains, and the carbs I installed had 137.5 mains. He didn't burn up the engine, just didn't have any top end. Once I put the 145 into the new carbs, it ran great.
Ray

[John]

Winkel

I don't know about the 'down under' XS's , but the ones we have here have different ignitions systems on the older models than the ones on an 81. The 81's have no mechanical advance, it is programmed into the ignition module. If you installed the 78-79 unit, the you may be getting too much advance, causing the condition you are experiencing. Did you use the governor assembly (flyweights) from the 78? If you did, then try to replace them with the 81 governor assembly.

[pggg]

Yeah get the timing sussed, as GNEPIG says, it's around 50 degrees on the XS with the vac hose connected. This depends on the local roads, but a real good 7000 - 8000 rev blow out for 15-20 minutes is the go for carboned motors. Get the motor creaking and ticking with big heat, THEN read the plugs. Adjustable needles on this particular model? Lower them a notch for a cleaner running midrange.

[jimg1au]

aussie rh

hi
looking at your bike it is based on a rh but there are a lot of standard parts on lt.you must fix the ignition problem first as the parts are not interchangable.if you use a early system you must use the whole system black box included.useing the rh black box will give you no advance and rich symtoms will develop as more full is dumped into the motor but with not enough spark it wont burn properly thus no power.1981 models across the range will fit your bike.be carefull when replacing fork seals as the rh is not the same as the rest of aussie xs1100s.
cheers
jim garvey
sydney
australia
xs1100rh
cb900 custom
it400 yamaha
cr250m honda

[winkel02]

timing

Jim,

The parts are interchangeable in this instance, because the only part i have used from an earlier model is the plate with the vacuum diaphragm assembly - in my last pics i posted, 2nd last pic the item on the left. So my bike now has vacuum advance only, no mechanical advance, as per '81 specs - all i need to do now is get my timing light and make sure the timing is right, since the 78/79 assembly allows rotation to adjust the timing slightly (see in the pics, the oval tracks for the screws - my '81 unit just had screw holes and was therefore unadjustable).

Will let you all know how it goes. Mate bought a 1999 Suzuki SV650S yesterday, and after taking it for a ride i know i'll put his $6,500 to shame with my $1,500 beast once i get it running right.

[winkel02]

latest results

hi all,

latest news from my bike - taken me a while to get back into fixing it up.

charging has now become a problem. fitment of geezers reg/rec has helped but the harness is such a mess i need to clean it all up. so thats number 1 priority.

fired it up the other day. emgo filters with 110 mains and they ran white. emgos with 112.5 mains and they sooted up. since i had floats set very lean, im going to go back to 110s and change the floats around.

need to get my timing sorted better though - sits in the U while idling, but doesn't seem to have a consistent advance off idle. i think the vacuum unit i fitted may be a little sticky in place - can i do anything to ease it a bit? some oil in the parts that move? can i put a very tiny amount of oil down tube to the diaphragm? if its old maybe its dried out and stiffened up?

while i havent done much testing yet i was also wondering - if the cdi controls advance electronically on my model bike, can a fault in this unit still allow the bike to run? just with no advance? i hit a big wall at 5k rpm under load, i dont think its advancing...though probably mainly due to the vacuum advance not working right yet.

anyway, cheers, will get back to it next week.

Winkel.