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Whooeeee!!! The Starter Works Anyway

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  • Whooeeee!!! The Starter Works Anyway

    Well, today was day 1 of the project bike saga. Most of the day was looking at the bike from different angles, the amount of rust, figuring out what accessories I want to keep vs. what I might want to trade for.

    My first step was removing the saddlebags and carrier so I could move around the bike easier. I don't think I will be keeping those, bags are not bad, one has a hole in the bottom that can be easily fixed. They also need stripping and painting. The carrier is pretty rusty also, going to see how it comes out with some wire wheel contact.

    The PO was a man after my own heart I'm assuming it was a man because no 2 nuts and bolts were the same. Its almost as if whatever he found along the side of the road was good enough. The wiring to the bags was cut but there were no lights on the bags so I guess he had some aftermarkets on the carrier. Have to pull all that wiring out also.

    Lots of rust everywhere, shocks, frame from the seat back to the tire, all the aluminum is oxidized. Forks not too bad but will probably replace them with a Forks by Frank set. All 3 rotors are really rusty. Not sure if they can be salvaged or not. I've never delt with rusty rotors so don't know how to clean 'em up, don't want to put that much money into this girl.

    Fuse box is shot, going to replace that tomorrow, see if I can turn it over. Supposedly it was running 6 or so months ago. Have to pull the plugs and check inside with a light, few squirts of MMO might help.

    So, will update and ask lots of questions as I go along. Probably not going to do a complete restore, just de-rusting, pulling/cleaning carbs, replace shocks and forks and MAYBE and new tank, not sure if the old one is OK. Seems to hold fuel but there is some rust on the upper part of the tank, not much though so might just want to try and clean it up as best I can.

    So, tomorrow will be fuse box and trying to start her.

    XXX (those are fingers crossed, not kisses)

    Jack
    82 XJ100J Gone
    83 XJ750 Seca

  • #2
    You want to use an auxiliary fuel tank when you start it.There is no need to fill the carbs with rust, if that is the liklihood...
    Skids (Sid Hansen)

    Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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    • #3
      Whooeeee!!! The Starter Works Anyway

      Decided today was the day to see how the project 79F would work with a charged battery, clean plugs, etc. When looking at her I am more inclined to put her out of her misery rather than rebuild BUT!! when I see how well the starter works, how clean the old plugs were it makes me squint and see something other than an old rust bucket.

      So, since I think she MIGHT have started if the choke would have worked, its time to pull the carbs, free the stuck choke, read the hundreds of posts re: carbs (an all day job just for that).

      Stand by for questions that might be coming your way

      Jack
      82 XJ100J Gone
      83 XJ750 Seca

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      • #4
        Originally posted by skids
        You want to use an auxiliary fuel tank when you start it.There is no need to fill the carbs with rust, if that is the liklihood...
        Easy to make an auxilliary tank from an old lawn mower tank.
        Shiny side up,
        650 Mike

        XS1100SF "Rusty", runs great, 96k miles
        XS650SJ "The Black Bike", engine from XS650H with 750cc big bore kit, 30k miles

        Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in one pretty and well preserved piece, but to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, worn out and defiantly shouting, "WOW, what a ride !" - [URL="http://www.flyingsnail.com/Sprung/index.html"]Sprung[/URL]

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        • #5
          Jack, here's my diagram of the starter circuit for cleaning. Air breather hole is at 10 o'clock on the carb intake. Pretty sure the diagram's accurate. Skids will know if it's not.

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          • #6
            Cleaning rust off the rotors isn't too hard. You just want to be sure that they aren't pitted before you put a lot of effort in it Take a rubber sanding block and some Fine grit sandpaper. Stay even in your strokes all the way around the rotor. Don't stroke away at one spot because you will soon cause an imbalance, especially of you forget how many strokes you took on the area. Also, be constant in your pressure.

            If they are pitted or thin, you're better off with replacements.
            Papa Gino

            79 and something XS 1100 Special "Battle Cruiser"
            78 XT 500 "Old Shaky"
            02 Kawasaki Concours "Connie"

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            • #7
              I can't say for sure, but I believe the air "jet" for the enrichener (aka starter jet) is nothing more than a hole in the side of that brass tube, and is located near the base of the carb body. The hole at 10 o'clock seems to vent the bowl at the mating surface and there does seem to be a path below the gasket to the brass straw... I just don't know WHAT function that hole at 10 o'clock serves! Now where is my carburator paper weight??? I need to look at it some more...
              The rest or your diagram looks good to me!

              Originally posted by pggg
              Jack, here's my diagram of the starter circuit for cleaning. Air breather hole is at 10 o'clock on the carb intake. Pretty sure the diagram's accurate. Skids will know if it's not.
              Skids (Sid Hansen)

              Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

              Comment


              • #8
                You can recover carbs from a very pitiful state. My own bike has stood so long he carbs had seized absolutely solid - slides,floats,float needles nothing moved. Just take your time (took me a whole day) and don't force anything. I used carb cleaner, cellulose thinners and an air line while working on mine. Soaking stuff overnight works wonders.

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                • #9
                  Originally posted by turbopete
                  You can recover carbs from a very pitiful state.
                  Well, so far, so good. Got the choke unstuck, moves fairly easily from left to right but I can tell the rod is still gummed up but I am sure it will clean up with a little scrubbing.

                  Removed the air filter lower housing to begin carb removal....I can't believe the condition of the filter. Its like the La Brea tar pit in there. Filter might be salvaged, its a UNI foam filter that can be cleaned. It was just too disgusting to deal with yesterday.

                  When I went to remove the tank, all of the spring locks were all rusted and as I pulled the rubber tubes from the petcock to the carbs they broke. Planned on getting all new tubing anyway, just have to find the correct sizes. The petcocks look to be in good shape, no leaks that I can see.

                  So, now its print out the carb removal process, highlight the part about NOT REMOVING the air box, just loosening the screws and then identifying which part is which and does what.

                  The carbs themselves don't look too bad, got a good feeling about them.

                  Jack
                  82 XJ100J Gone
                  83 XJ750 Seca

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Originally posted by jacksf
                    When I went to remove the tank, all of the spring locks were all rusted and as I pulled the rubber tubes from the petcock to the carbs they broke. Planned on getting all new tubing anyway, just have to find the correct sizes.
                    The best replacement fuel line I have seen is the yellow see-through line you get from a lawnmower shop, it stays flexible- unlike the black rubber stuff. I'm sure they will have new clamps available there also.
                    Last edited by xj11john; 11-28-2005, 12:21 AM.
                    '82 Xj1100j

                    "Ride for the Son"

                    < )) ><

                    John

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