What kinds of tools (Steering Head Bearings)

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  • Ccitis
    Truly XSive
    • Jun 2023
    • 182

    #1

    What kinds of tools (Steering Head Bearings)

    I have been putting off the job for awhile, and contemplating bringing the bike to a shop... what kinds of tools would I need to make this job of replacing the head bearings a little bit easier? Removal tools, install tools... I am pretty new to bearing installs. Will do the front wheel bearings during this job at the same time. Thanks as always.
  • jetmechmarty
    Master of XSology
    • Nov 2003
    • 8011
    • Coldwater, Mississippi

    #2
    You will need a 16 oz ball peen hammer. Some good punches. I use a race driver set. A mig welder could make short work of it. You might need a die grinder or a Dremel. The bottom race was unfriendly on mine.
    Marty (in Mississippi)
    XS1100SG
    XS650SK
    XS650SH
    XS650G
    XS6502F
    XS650E

    Comment

    • bikerphil
      Master of XSology
      • Jan 2008
      • 8837
      • South Flori-DUH

      #3
      Yes, in some cases, the bottom race needs to be carefully cut and chiseled out. The engineers did not leave sufficient access to tap the race out, it sits flush with no lip to tap against. If the lower race feels smooth with your finger, you can go ahead and leave it and just replace the bearing. You will also need to carefully cut the lower bearing off the triple tree stem. Dremel cutoff type wheel should do the trick.
      2H7 (79) owned since '89
      3H3 owned since '06

      07 Triumph Tiger 1050 (night rider)

      "If it ain't broke, modify it"

      Comment

      • DEEBS11
        XS-XJ Guru
        • Feb 2023
        • 1896
        • Connecticut

        #4
        Sometimes I will weld a washer or a small piece of strap steel to the race and pound it out. The heat really helps.


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        • jetmechmarty
          Master of XSology
          • Nov 2003
          • 8011
          • Coldwater, Mississippi

          #5
          Originally posted by DEEBS11
          Sometimes I will weld a washer or a small piece of strap steel to the race and pound it out. The heat really helps.


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          I’ve seen them fall out after a bead was drawn on them.
          Marty (in Mississippi)
          XS1100SG
          XS650SK
          XS650SH
          XS650G
          XS6502F
          XS650E

          Comment

          • Rasputin
            XS-XJ Super Guru
            • Apr 2008
            • 3190
            • Lacombe, Alberta, Canada

            #6
            Run a bead of weld around the face of the race. Allow to cool and then it will literally fall out. Saves so much stress and effort as well as the hair on your head.
            2-79 XS1100 SF
            2-78 XS1100 E Best bike Ever
            80 XS 1100 SG Big bore kit but not fully running yet.
            Couple of more parts bikes of which 2 more will live!

            Comment

            • Ccitis
              Truly XSive
              • Jun 2023
              • 182

              #7
              No access to welder... yet.

              Comment

              • Ccitis
                Truly XSive
                • Jun 2023
                • 182

                #8
                Originally posted by bikerphil
                Yes, in some cases, the bottom race needs to be carefully cut and chiseled out. The engineers did not leave sufficient access to tap the race out, it sits flush with no lip to tap against. If the lower race feels smooth with your finger, you can go ahead and leave it and just replace the bearing. You will also need to carefully cut the lower bearing off the triple tree stem. Dremel cutoff type wheel should do the trick.
                Bike has 35k kms on it. The race may be ok... that would be nice. I am chasing an issue where the head shakes at high speeds and during braking....

                Comment

                • bikerphil
                  Master of XSology
                  • Jan 2008
                  • 8837
                  • South Flori-DUH

                  #9
                  Yep, sounds like loose steering head. You could try tightening it up some, but I'm sure the bearings will still need grease.
                  2H7 (79) owned since '89
                  3H3 owned since '06

                  07 Triumph Tiger 1050 (night rider)

                  "If it ain't broke, modify it"

                  Comment

                  • Larrym
                    XS-XJ Guru
                    • Oct 2008
                    • 1399
                    • Tucson

                    #10
                    "Bike has 35k kms on it. The race may be ok... that would be nice. I am chasing an issue where the head shakes at high speeds and during braking...."

                    Loose Steering head and/or triple tree is ONE of the possible causes IMO... ( •_•)

                    Iffin' you WANT to do the full 9-yards of removing everything and whacking out bearings/races then go for it. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡° )

                    Personally? (O_o)

                    I'd just lube the steering head bearings IN PLACE (in situ...) with THIS-

                    Click image for larger version

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                    Sure... in a perfect world one could easily yoink out the bearings, clean'em, repack with wheel bearing grease, and easily re-install. (・‿・)

                    Problem here is they're BURIED under so very many things that gotta be removed in order to DO that clean/repack. (⊙▂⊙)

                    Lookey at the pic again- PERFECT FOR HARD TO REACH PLACES!. (◕‿◕)

                    These bearings are likely dry cuz the OEM grease "solvent" has evaporated/dried out and left behind only the "solids". (O_O)

                    Spritz the red grease in the gap(s) available, work the steering from Full left to Full right a few times. Lather-rinse repeat. Wipe away excess. (^_^)

                    Repair manual has the tightening/adjustment procedures which is the next step. ( •_•)

                    DEFINITELY go through the clean/repack of the wheel bearings and speedometer gear housing in the front wheel and use REAL grease. ٩(^◡^)۶

                    Comment

                    • Radioguylogs
                      XS-XJ Guru
                      • Nov 2012
                      • 2081
                      • Presque Isle, MI

                      #11
                      Steering Bearings

                      I usually am able to pound out the top steering race with a punch/drift.

                      I usually have to cut the bottom race with a Dremel cutting wheel.

                      I use a chisel to drive the bearing off of the triple tree.


                      Wheel Bearings

                      For wheel bearings, I bought a Pit Posse bearing removal tool. It works GREAT! I wish I had bought it a lot sooner.

                      -Mike
                      _________
                      '79 XS1100SF 20k miles
                      '80 XS1100SG 44k miles
                      '81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
                      '79 XS750SF 17k miles
                      '85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
                      '84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
                      '86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles

                      Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65

                      Comment

                      • Ccitis
                        Truly XSive
                        • Jun 2023
                        • 182

                        #12
                        Originally posted by Larrym
                        "Bike has 35k kms on it. The race may be ok... that would be nice. I am chasing an issue where the head shakes at high speeds and during braking...."

                        Loose Steering head and/or triple tree is ONE of the possible causes IMO... ( •_•)

                        Iffin' you WANT to do the full 9-yards of removing everything and whacking out bearings/races then go for it. ( ͡° ͜ʖ ͡° )

                        Personally? (O_o)

                        I'd just lube the steering head bearings IN PLACE (in situ...) with THIS-

                        Click image for larger version

Name:	Red_Grease.jpg
Views:	0
Size:	51.5 KB
ID:	889433

                        Sure... in a perfect world one could easily yoink out the bearings, clean'em, repack with wheel bearing grease, and easily re-install. (・‿・)

                        Problem here is they're BURIED under so very many things that gotta be removed in order to DO that clean/repack. (⊙▂⊙)

                        Lookey at the pic again- PERFECT FOR HARD TO REACH PLACES!. (◕‿◕)

                        These bearings are likely dry cuz the OEM grease "solvent" has evaporated/dried out and left behind only the "solids". (O_O)

                        Spritz the red grease in the gap(s) available, work the steering from Full left to Full right a few times. Lather-rinse repeat. Wipe away excess. (^_^)

                        Repair manual has the tightening/adjustment procedures which is the next step. ( •_•)

                        DEFINITELY go through the clean/repack of the wheel bearings and speedometer gear housing in the front wheel and use REAL grease. ٩(^◡^)۶
                        Perhaps I will do that. The bike is in good shape... they are probably dry. Little bit of play though when I pull front to back on the wheel. Very very slight. My other thoughts on this issue are wheel bearings, tires (shinko), possibly the brakes... I put new pads on and it seems like this kind of started around then... certainly when I hit the front brake lever... but also at speeds above say 70 mph. Have tried various air pressures.

                        Comment

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