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caliper rebuild parts question

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  • #16
    Then do some PM

    Dont skimp on your brakes!

    Last time I did my calipers was over 8 years ago because one was starting to leak. Did the MCs too. I sprung for the kits because I had the $$$ at the time but the old parts still looked fairly good. Cleaned up the pistons with crocus cloth and scraped the crud out of the o-ring groove. Stripped the black paint off of the caliper body and polished the outsides while they were apart. Everything went back together just fine.

    Every Spring I do some simple preventitive maintenance. The recommended fluid for the XS will attract moisture and that is what causes alot of the corrosion. So, yearly I change the fluid. Simple to do and is cheap insurance.
    Mike Giroir
    79 XS-1100 Special

    Once you un-can a can of worms, the only way to re-can them is with a bigger can.

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    • #17
      *sigh*

      This feels like it's taking for-ev-er. I got some 1k crocus cloth last night, and it only managed to polish up the pistons. Didn't even come close to taking even the minor pits out. I'll call around town today and see if I can get some coarser cloth. If nobody has any, then I'll be placing an order to MikesXS tomorrow for new ones.

      I can always play with the old pistons later and save them as a backup set, though I can't imagine under what circumstances I'd need a new set of them in the next 20 years. Like TADracer said, a little preventive maintenance, and you'll be golden.
      -Do what makes you happy.

      '79 Honda CB 750 K (2)
      '78 XS 11 E - "Rhona"
      ...and a 2nd E, for the goodies on it.

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      • #18
        The crocus cloth is meant to do just what it was doing-polish the pistons, maybe take off some of the high spots if there are any. If you have low spots, don't worry unless they're larger than the width of the seal.

        The last thing you want to do is change the diameter of the pistons, so don't use a coarser cloth, 'cause you'll guarantee a leak.

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        • #19
          Thanks for the info on the crocus cloth. Now that I've used it, I see what you were talking about.


          So, Rhona's been severely neglected for the past three weeks, and I just put the calipers back together last night. I ended up cleaning up the rubber and re-using the seals, but I had to spring for new caliper pistons. Stainless, from 650central.com.

          The left went together magnificently and looks like it's seated perfectly. The right one, however, isn't centered on the disc, and grabs. Top view, the disc is within a millimeter of the edge and from the bottom, the disc is close to the middle of the opening.

          Q1: Would this sort itself out by getting the caliper full of fluid and operational, or will I have to re-disassemble?

          Q2: Could it be that my fork leg cocked a little bit when I put on the fork brace last year, or that the fender or axle is holding the fork leg crooked?

          Any help, as always, is appreciated.
          -Do what makes you happy.

          '79 Honda CB 750 K (2)
          '78 XS 11 E - "Rhona"
          ...and a 2nd E, for the goodies on it.

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          • #20
            Erik,
            When you do brakes on the front, you should LOOSEN ALL THE NUTS/BOLTS for the front end. You then re-tighten them, starting at the top. This should take care of your problem. And yes, this INCLUDES the fork brace!!
            You need to be sure everything is centered once again, so you need to start loose.
            Ray Matteis
            KE6NHG
            XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
            XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

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            • #21
              Does this include where the fender attaches to the fork legs? Assuming yes to that question, after I loosen everything up, it'd be:
              1. fork brace
              2. fender
              3. upper mounting bolt on caliper
              4. lower mounting bolt on caliper
              5. axle bolt

              I'm assuming that you wouldn't need to loosen the triple tree. Are my assumptions/order correct?
              -Do what makes you happy.

              '79 Honda CB 750 K (2)
              '78 XS 11 E - "Rhona"
              ...and a 2nd E, for the goodies on it.

              Comment


              • #22
                Follow this link to see what the procedure is as according to Clymers. Look for a thread from me in this post.
                http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...t+forks+clymer

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                • #23
                  Ahh, I gotcha. Thanks.
                  -Do what makes you happy.

                  '79 Honda CB 750 K (2)
                  '78 XS 11 E - "Rhona"
                  ...and a 2nd E, for the goodies on it.

                  Comment


                  • #24
                    So I recently bought a new caliper, I opened it up to clean out before adding it to the missing side and discovered there's no pad spring. Do I NEED this? It is discontinued, and no where to be found on the internet.

                    It is part #5 on the diagram
                    http://www.cmsnl.com/yamaha-xs1100-1...1.html#results

                    Also, after cleaning the piston should be able to move in and out just with my hands, right?
                    80G

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                    • #25
                      The link went to a UK site, and #5 is the brake pads. The SS liner behind the pads are really not needed, so you can do without. The funny shaped part that goes above the pads IS something you should have. Send a PM to andeasweisse (sp), a member who has a lot of XS parts and lets them go at a reasonable price. These are used, but are still serviceable.
                      Ray Matteis
                      KE6NHG
                      XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                      XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                      Comment


                      • #26
                        Hi Rex
                        The flat spring is available as a a kit from some suppliers. The last pads I bought from http://www.partsnmore.com/parts/yamaha/
                        had replacement springs in the box. $15 then $21 now and it did/does not say on the site that it includes the spring. Save your screw , with the tapered end as the replacement is just a regular screw.
                        Pads were Kevlar and made in Taiwan.
                        I am happy with the performance YMMV of the pads.
                        I did not check but am talking of a Standard.

                        Phil
                        1981 XS1100 H Venturer ( Addie)
                        1983 XJ 650 Maxim
                        2004 Kawasaki Concours. ( Black Bear)

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                        • #27
                          The parts diagram for caliper is still the same, UK site or not. It was just for a reference point in the event nobody knew what I was talking about. Number 5 isn't the just the pads, but the pads and the spring which I was referring too.
                          Since it definitely seems like I need them, I'll see if Andreas has some or order a set from PartsNMore if they come with them. I appreciate the help fellas.
                          80G

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                          • #28
                            CMSNL is not UK based, CMS is NL based. Netherlands, Prices are Euros not Pounds.
                            Tom
                            1982 5K7 Sport, restored to original from a wreck
                            1978 2H9 (E), my original XS11, mostly original
                            1980 2H9 monoshocked (avatar pic)http://i145.photobucket.com/albums/r...psf30aa1c8.jpg
                            1982 XJ1100, waiting resto to original

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