Intake manifold gasket question

[Desert Dave]

I want to install my new intake manifold rubber. There seems to be a lot of opinions on whether to use paper gaskets, RVT, both or nothing. Has the group come to a consensus on what works best? I have the Georgefix ones off eBay if that makes a difference. Also, if both the paper gaskets and RTV then what side or both do you put the RTV?

https://www.ebay.com/itm/192246991428

[bikerphil]

I omit the paper gaskets and use a thin smear of RTV on the boot mating surface. Do not fully tighten until the RTV starts to cure, maybe an hour or so, then fully tighten. Don't use too much otherwise it could squeeze out on the inside of the boot and possibly restrict air/fuel flow.

[Desert Dave]

Thanks, bikerphill!!! I couldn't believe that there were so many opinions on something that seems so simple. 😂

[bikerphil]

Yep. The gaskets would work, but they will fail soooo much sooner than RTV, so best off not using them at all. Also, make sure the the mating surfaces on the head are clean, you know that.

[GNEPIG]

I don't use the gaskets just a light smear of Yamabond...

[jetmechmarty]

I omit the paper gaskets and use a thin smear of RTV on the boot mating surface. Do not fully tighten until the RTV starts to cure, maybe an hour or so, then fully tighten. Don't use too much otherwise it could squeeze out on the inside of the boot and possibly restrict air/fuel flow.

I do the opposite. I use paper gaskets and no glue. I have to qualify that by telling you I'm heavy into XS650. Those carburetors are a major PITA to remove with the spigots on. The XS11 is much easier.

If you use gasket sealer and paper, put the sealant on the spigot side, not on the engine. Below is my sealant choice for this. Most auto parts stores have it.

[XSSIVEUS]

The purpose of a gasket is to fill imperfections in the relative flatness and parallelism of two mating surfaces so you obtain a pressure or vacuum seal. It's never perfect in mass produced items. Assuming you have new rubber boots and pristine intake surfaces, they will not be perfectly flat nor parallel. Thus you need some sort of "gasket" to fill these imperfections unless one part is designed to "conform" to the other surface. I've seen some boots that have molded protrusions that can act as a gasket if the fasteners have metal plates to spread the load out relatively evenly so the protrusions see about the same squeeze. Same with O-ring mated surfaces. Paper gaskets are common because of low cost and ease in application. "Made-in-place" gaskets, using one of the compounds suggested above, will also work well assuming you have: 1) Clean surfaces with nothing left over from the previous installation, 2) A mating torque and tightening sequence that corresponds to the materials being used, 3) The correct amount of compound used and applied in the correct areas, and 4) You follow the manufacturer's instructions for pre-curing before mating. Like most things, there is usually more than one way to do something and have it work. You need to ask yourself if you have control over the above needs for made-in-place compound gaskets. If you take your time, either should be OK.

[DEEBS11]

I chuck the gasket and apply a very small amount of copper gasket sealer. The gaskets are so cheap that they shatter over time with heating and cooling cycles and being exposed to fuel. The gasket theory would work if it was a quality gasket which it is not. If the gasket was Cometic type material I would use it.


These might be better quality but I don't bother. The seal is perfect without the gasket.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/28507941566...Bk9SR5SOrd-8ZQ

[DEEBS11]

Factory - no gaskets.

[jetmechmarty]

Those green gaskets are inferior. I like thick as what I believe were OEM.