Really, how likely is the issue. I have a 80G with 38000kms on it. I got the bike for very little, and it was not running. After some work, it runs and rides great now. It does make me nervous though, having that 2nd gear issue looming over my head. I have had no issues so far. I am decent at working on bikes, but the fix I am sure would test all my abilities and I am not keen on doing it. So in reality, how many bikes... in particular later models really have this issue. And what can I do to avoid it?
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I am also the owner of an 80G and have done the 2nd gear repair @ about 87,000 km. The repair, in my case, amounted to complete replacement of the suspect 2nd & 5th gears on the drive axle (countershaft) and corresponding shifter fork with parts from an '81 Special along with the washer swap. Didn't attempt gear dog/slot back-cutting at the time, but have since pulled that off on an '84 Honda VF750 successfully. (imagine my JOY when I discovered they have the same problem) Once upon a time in my younger (spelled: more reckless) years I drove it hard, without any thought to the damages I was doing to the transmission. With that in mind, the need for repairs is dictated mainly by how it's been ridden up to now. After pulling off the repair, I am very careful that my shift from 1st to 2nd is very positive ("Shift like Russian tractor....") and clutch adjustment allows for proper, complete disengagement between shifts. So, drive nice and you won't have to "enjoy" the repair process. But, if it ever skips during hard 2nd gear acceleration, it's time.1980 XS1100G (one owner-me)
1983 Kawasaki GPZ750 (Frankenbike)
1984 Honda VF750S V45
Owned - 1976 XS750D
Owned - 1972 Honda CB750
Owned - (unknown year) XS650
(+ too many Yammies/Hondas to mention)
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My bike has had issues with both first and second gear popping out under hard acceleration for about 10k miles now. If I don't push first or second hard then everything is fine.
I'm sure to stir up a hornets nest but here goes!
If I run plain old 15W40 diesel oil the problem is far less noticeable than when I run semi synthetic. Since I tend to buy whatever brand of 15W40 is on sale at the time I've tried both Rotella and Delvac semi synthetic with the same result, it rarely happens with good old Walmart brand Super Tech or plain Jane Rotella. This I'm sure will trigger cognitive dissonance within some, all I know is what I've personally experienced.
1980 XS1100G
I identify as a man but according to the label on a package of Stauffers Baked Lasagne I'm actually a family of four!
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The only thing I have noticed, but not lately funny enough is while slow and shifting into 2nd it can take a bit to get it there. Never a pop up. I have had a little "crunchiness" into 2nd. Not last season though, a clutch adjustment may have solved that.
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Shift properly, don't "beat" the bike, and you should get about 160K Kilometers out of it. Some died early, some never did.
Treat her with respect and she will go almost forever.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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It's an older bike so ride it, but don't beat on it. I have had my 80 SG since 1986 and never had an issue with the clutch slipping. I have seen friends ride their bikes hard and they don't have them anymore.1980 XS1100 SG
Inline fuel filters
New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
160 mph speedometer mod
Kerker Exhaust
xschop K & N air filter setup
Dynojet Recalibration kit
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed
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Originally posted by Ccitis View PostAnd what can I do to avoid it?
In this vid you can "HeAr" the answer-
"Shifting gears smoothly requires the driver to carefully match the engine speed (RPM) to the transmission speed before engaging the next gear."
Sure...we got's a "constant mesh" type transmission and not a true "crash gearbox" like on a r e a l l y old John Deere but what we DON'T got are the soft bronze/cone shaped synchro gears that ease shifting by adding that extra bit of "matching gear revolutions" when's the dawgs DO engage. (•﹏•)
SOOooo...... The short answer is develop the proper operator/driver skillz. (Θ︹Θ)
In particular, the practice of rolling off the throttle to "unload" the little gearies, pulling in the clutch, and then (and only then...) apply pressure to the shifter to change the gear, and only after the gear is engaged properly, release the clutch lever, and accelerate sum mOaR. ໒(⊙ᴗ⊙)७
The emphasis is on P A U S I N G the bike's acceleration briefly in order to change gears and then rolling on the throttle (again...) relying on the bike's most ample torque/HP to provide the accleoreation we enjoy. ლ(⌒▽⌒ლ)
I look at like owning/driving a vehicle like dis-
It gots three(3) two barrel carbureatators but fOaR all poipose general driving it only uses the middle 2 barrels so's yur granpa can take it to Walgreens and back w/o wrapping it around a tree. ( ˇ෴ˇ)>
O'course, folk's can drive like they's hooligans where every stoplight is a 1/4 mile dragstrip light tree and bang thru the gears eeking every microsecond off their ET with minimal or even NO clutch operation between shifts, right? (O_o)
But IMHO, there's few peoples who would R E A L L Y do that alls the time as the bike (when running properly) has all the oomph needed to be at the head of the pack while operating in the 3-4.5 K rpms range. (ʘ‿ʘ)
But HOOLIGAN Mode becomes SOP when's the idle circuit is borked due to someone cleaning/rebuilding the carbs and installing a Taiwan kit. (-‸ ლ)
No power or pull below 4.5 K rpms so at each stoplight the bike IS ridden in the upper rpms with max available power/torque AND extra effort to get out of the current gear and into the next gear befoar the rpms drop below 6 K rpms. (◑‿◐)
Imma thmikin' THATs the way most of these bikes get the foist/second gear problem(s). ε=ε=ε=ε=(ノ*´Д`)ノ
Note- 3 of the 5 bike I did ride with during my "continental" trips had both the seconfd gear problem AND carb issues where they ran like carp below 5 k rpms...... just sayin.... (*゚ー゚)
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Shift crisply and firmly, so the dogs aren't banging around in and out of the slots.-Mike
_________
'79 XS1100SF 20k miles
'80 XS1100SG 44k miles
'81 XS1100H Venturer 35k miles
'79 XS750SF 17k miles
'85 Honda V65 Magna ~7k miles
'84 Honda V65 Magna 48k miles (parts bike)
'86 Yamaha VMAX 9k miles
Previous: '68 Motoguzzi 600cc + '79 XS750SF 22k miles +'84 Honda V65
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Originally posted by Ccitis View Post. I got the bike for very little, and it was not running.
FWIW, given that these bikes are wut they are and peoples be wut they be? (O_o)
Running these bikes in hooligan mode til the gears start failing and then just letting them sit fOaR six months so's the battery is dead with the carbs all gunked up is a poifect way to try to dupe the next buyer. (°_°)
PO can try to sell the "sizzle" of it being a classic muscle bike like the glossy brochure(s) and explain away why's he abandonded it as he just found sumpthin' mOaR interesting oar suitable for his garage. (︶︹︺)
But wit' no way to go fOaR a test drive and check second/foist gear. (`∀´)Ψ
Wurdz like F A S T, STRONG, and pullz HARD in their description are warning signs, imo. Especially since the bike I own is a CRUISER...not a crotch rocket. (╰ ‿ ╯)
Me, personally? (O_o)
I would N E V E R buy a non running XS1100 without draining the oil and snaking a borescope/light into the drain hole to look at the 5'th gear/2'nd gear dawgs. (>д<)
At the right angle you's can see iffin' they's rounded and/or shiny. (◕‿◕)
(THX Harbour Frate!!!) (´◡`)
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My 79F is the 2nd one I've owned. First only had 7,800 miles on it, and this one has 28,000 miles. Neither had/ has any 2nd gear jump out. I don't ride too fast, but once or twice on every ride, I'll rip it fast up to 75mph or so. My shifts are firm, and my clutch use is per normal. I've ridden bikes since I was 15, and have always shifted this way. Be purposeful in your shifting, don't beat on it, and you'll be fine.79 F
Previously owned: (among others)
1969 Harley- Davidson Rapido 125 (Aermacchi)
1967 Suzuki X6 Hustler
1973 Suzuki TM 125
1979 XS1100 F
2005 Kaw. Vulcan VN800
1991 BMW K75
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I have seen people wheelie a bike and do major damage.1980 XS1100 SG
Inline fuel filters
New wires in old coils-outer spark plugs
160 mph speedometer mod
Kerker Exhaust
xschop K & N air filter setup
Dynojet Recalibration kit
1999 Kawasaki ZRX1100
1997 Jeep Cherokee 4.5"lift installed
- 1 like
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Originally posted by Ccitis View PostReally, how likely is the issue. I have a 80G with 38000kms on it. I got the bike for very little, and it was not running. After some work, it runs and rides great now. It does make me nervous though, having that 2nd gear issue looming over my head. I have had no issues so far. I am decent at working on bikes, but the fix I am sure would test all my abilities and I am not keen on doing it. So in reality, how many bikes... in particular later models really have this issue. And what can I do to avoid it?Skids (Sid Hansen)
Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.
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I don’t remember how many miles my my bike had on it when I replaced four gear wheels. It had 10K miles on it when I got it and over 100K on it now. I did the washer move when I replaced the gears. Deliberate shifting will preserve the transmission I agree.Marty (in Mississippi)
XS1100SG
XS650SK
XS650SH
XS650G
XS6502F
XS650E
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