Petcock Ferrule

[Desert Dave]

Just my luck! 😂 I was removing the fuel lines to remove my tank, and one of the ferrules came out of the petcock. Does anyone have any suggestions on how I should secure it back in the petcock? I was thinking RTV, but that is only gasoline resistant. I thought JB Weld, but that's very permanent. I'm not sure if epoxy is effected by fuel, and again that's permanent.

[cajun31]

Fixed your double post. I have had that happen before and I just pressed the brass ferrule back into the petcock with nothing. I also spritz the fuel hose with a touch of wd-40 to make sure it doesn't cling to the brass. Others may have some more suggestions.

[aquamantx]

Depending on how tight you want the fit loctite blue would help hold it in. Green would be close to permanent..

[Radioguylogs]

I had that happen and I used red Loctite.

I don't see any reason it should be removed later, and I wanted it to be strong.

[Desert Dave]

First, thank you for fixing my double post. I wasn't even aware of it. I want to thank all of you for your assistance. I will put it in with Loctite. I will use blue because that's what I already have. Red would certainly be stronger. I didn't even know that green was a thing! I also had known idea that those ferrules ever came out.

[DEEBS11]

Use bearing retainer.

[Desert Dave]

That does seem to be made for exactly the purpose that I want to use it for. I'm curious how it forms a bond with parts that are lightly coated in oil, but I am guessing that the answer will be well beyond my understanding of chemistry.

[DEEBS11]

Dave, clean the metal surfaces with brake cleaner before applying. All it takes is a light coat of 603. Assemble and let it cure. Once cured it is resistant to oil and gas (but not extreme heat).

[Desert Dave]

10-4! I actually stocked up on brake cleaner this past weekend. 😁 I was unfamiliar with Loctite 603 - green so I looked it up, and I was surprised when it said, "Suitable for use where consistently clean surfaces can't be assured, such as parts lightly coated with cutting fluids or rust preventative oils." I'll be cleaning the part before I reinstall it anyway. It actually has some green residue on it that I believe is from the Tygon hose that I used when I replaced my fuel lines.

[DiverRay]

Green would be oxidation from ethanol fuel use. I know most people do not have a choice, but if you do, use ethanol free fuel in these bikes. And only run regular grade fuel unless you know the engine has been "worked on" and needs the slower burning premium to keep pinging and knocks down.

[Desert Dave]

I can get ethanol free fuel, but it's kind of out of the way. I'll probably use it some of the time. While I was separated from my XS I had a Ducati Multistrada. Part of it's Italian "charm" is that the fuel tanks are allergic to gas. The ethanol in our fuel makes the tanks swell. I always add a little Stabil and some Seafoam to each tank when I fill up.

Previously, when I had the XS I didn't have any access to ethanol free fuel. I didn't know that higher octane fuel could cause issues. I have always run premium in every bike that I have ever owned. Looks like I can save some money on fuel! 🤠

[LAB3]

I'm of the opinion that ethanol in the fuel is a way to get around other explanations for fuel system problems. Sure, I've had it gel up and clog up a carb in the past due to not putting fuel stabilizer in the tank before setting the bike up for the winter but other than that I just plain don't see any other issues.

Over the last three years I've covered well over 50k miles on my bike and I put in whatever the gas station is selling, usually 87 octane with 10% ethanol. True, I will occasionally get detonation in hot weather but that seems to have more to due with "lugging" the engine, drop down a gear and it goes away. I've never had my carbs all the way apart in that time and it's hard to say exactly how old the rubber parts are inside. The way I see it it's nowhere near as evil as people may think it is.

[Desert Dave]

I've never had an issue with ethanol fuel either. The Duc had a known issue with the plastic that they used not liking ethanol (which they don't use in Europe) absorbing water out of the air and destroying the fuel tank itself. I always added additives, and I live in the desert so I never had an issue. I hope that you are wrong about heat causing issues as again, I live in the desert halfway between Phoenix and Tucson. If it does then I guess that I will need to buy my fuel on the reservation which is 21 miles each way from my house.

[cajun31]

The biggest issues concerning ethanol is when you don't ride often enough to basically keep fresh fuel in it. For instance, when you or anyone else parks the bike for the winter. My experience has been that is when the ethanol turns into a science experiment. Adding some type of stabilizer helps. Lab3 lives on the road and rides more than any of us so probably refreshes what's in his tank more often. If non ethanol is available, it is preferred. Of course, any gas if left too long will cause problems. I always fill all my bikes with ethanol free when winter is approaching and top that off with the recommended amount of stabilizer. My biggest problem is I own five bikes and don't ride any of them often enough.

[Desert Dave]

Luckily, winter is riding season here, and I will suffer the heat just to ride in the summer! 🌞 You're absolutely right that I will never come close to approaching the miles that Lab3 puts on. His adventures would be impressive on a new bike. It's amazing that he does it in a bike approaching 50 years old! Fortunately, I knew that I wouldn't be seeing the XS for a long time when I moved from IL to AZ so I drained and fogged the tank and carbs. They look beautiful. I have been resisting the temptation to add some fuel and fire her up for the exact reason of not wanting the fuel to get stale as I have some work to do before she's ridable. One day I hope to convince SWMBO that I need 5 bikes. One day!!! 😉