Blinkers

[johnfrenchsr]

When my bike idles at 1000 rpm my blinkers wont work when it rev up they work fine. Is it the flasher or alt. Thanks

[DiverRay]

It's the bike. The XS1100 usually can't run the blinkers at idle. This problem is really bad if you add lights to your bike, as in extra tail lights, brighter headlight bulb, ect. The one fis that will work is spend the money on Geezers new regulator for the XS. It helps out, and may give you back the blinkers at idle.

[Targetman]

I don't believe that this is normal behavior.
Mine did it until I finally found "iffy" connections along the harness.
Now I can use the blinkers at any rpm, no problem.
Check all the connectors that you can. They could even look ok but be causing resistance.

[rover]

Replace the flasher with a 2 prong heavy duty auto flasher. The original has 3 prongs, one is for the self cancelling feature. Try the new flasher one way, if that don't work, change the position. You will lose the self cancelling feature, but the signals should blink at any RPM if the battery is fully charged.

[randy]

I disagree. The electrical system is strong enough to work the blinkers even with the engine off.

Mine does. But then, I tore mine down to te bare harness during my re-build. I know everyone doesn't have that luxury.

You need good clean connections and a properly charged battery. Cleaning your connections will go a long way toward all-around trouble-free running and reliability.

[DeanR]

Mine also work fine with the engine off!

[fxrer]

Randy is the recognized “electrical guru” for this site, so I defer to his expertise, but when my blinkers slowed down at idle, I replaced the flasher with an O.E.M. from the dealer, and all is well. Trouble is, that part cost $60+, and that was 5 years ago. Not sure you can even get them any more.

OR, you can do like Rover says, replace with a 2 prong auto unit (and lose self canceling).

OR, try what Randy says, clean every terminal and connector, and see if that helps.

[TopCatGr58]

Instead of a Standard Auto Flasher, get an electronic one, still 2 pronged, but electronic innards, a few bucks more, but doesn't require the load or heat to activate the flasher mechanism. Also recommend checking all connections, especially grounds at the bulbs/lights. You may even be able to take the OEM flasher apart, there are contacts like old points, and they can get pitted and burned, reducing electrical flow, you might be able to dress them up with a fine metal file, emory board or cloth!? Could also convert to LED bulbs AND the electronic flasher!
T.C.

[BLUEJEEPLAB]

My two cents is that if the starter cranks over just fine, then you have a flasher issue. If not, check your battery connections and get em nice and bright. If that doesn't work, new battery time. My flashers work fine with engine off and driving lights on.

[xs650mike]

Mine will flash with the engine off and rapidly too. I've had similar problems in the past with XS650s and my 11, on the 11 every time all I've had to do was clean the contacts where the flasher plugs in. On the 650s one was the flasher contacts and the other required cleaning every plug and socket in the signal circuit plus the turn signal switch contacts which dropped the ohm resistance down to where the signals worked properly. BTW I've never had a stock Yammie flasher go bad. My 400 has over 57k on it and the flasher and self-cancel work fine, never did any repair at all, not even cleaning. Even used to park it outside in Frisco's salt air.

Try the flasher plugs and sockets first. Try another flasher next. If you've still got a problem I'd suspect the switch needs cleaning. if that's no go then all the plugs in the harness. That should do the trick.

If you replace the flasher with a 2 prong auto flasher you may have to experiment to get it plugged in correctly.

[Geezer]

I'll second cleaning the connections. It sounds too easy so many blow it off as BS but it works. Just be sure and coat the terminals with dielectric grease before you plug them back together.

The Mongrel burnt up the plug on the ignition switch from corrosion causing high resistance. This was only 2 years after I cleaned it all up when I was putting it back on the road. So this time I cleaned and greased all the terminals and the tach has never worked so well. Also with dielectric grease, you won't need to clean them again. In my defense, I was in a hury to get it on the road to go to a rally but, I should have done it right the first time...

Geezer

[Winterhawk]

I agree with Randy, The XS1100 electrical system is strong enough to flash at idle. Mine does flash idling at 1k RPM. You have a little Resistance somewhere? Fuse Box, Ignition Switch, Rectifier.
This link is very good at troubleshooting and understanding Yamaha's system. Be sure and bookmark it.

XJ Electrical 101

[Luxury]

Don't forget to check the bulb sockets in all four signals. My blinkers recently declined to blink and after trying several different flashers with no success, I took the front signals apart and found a bunch of corrosion in the sockets. They are a strange multi-piece setup - I took them apart and used a dremmel to remove all the corrosion and then treated them with battery terminal protector. Blinkers now work great with the stock flasher - even with the engine off. I'm with xs650mike - I bet there are a lot of good flashers that have been tossed, when bad connectors/sockets were really the problem.

[fxrer]

cleaning every plug and socket in the signal circuit plus the turn signal switch contacts

650 Mike, my 11 flashes slower on the left than right, even after I cleaned light corrosion from the front bulb socket (rear was fine). I also cleaned terminals at the fairly new flasher unit, with no change.

I'm thinking maybe it is the contacts in the switch. Any secret to disassembly and cleaning of that switch? Any springs, detent balls, etc that will fall out? Where are the contacts?

I don't want some little part, that I'm unaware of, to go missing.

[randy]

Any springs, detent balls, etc that will fall out?

Rick, yes, a bunch of little parts to fall out. This is best done on a bench, so if you can remove the switch and harness, do it. Alternatively, get a can of 'tuner cleaner' and spray it clean. Just keep that stuff away from the paint.

I would use the 'tuner cleaner' because it's milder than regular contact cleaner and there are some plastic parts inside and I think regular contact cleaner might hurt those parts.

You might also find some loose solder joints. Repair the solder joints BEFORE you use the cleaner.