Picked up a '78 recently. Runs pretty well over 3500 rpm, but looking through possible simple causes before I get to carbs, I found one plug cap very corroded, not seating on the (new) plug. Investigating this, I found the wire had broken off the plug, and was just kind of shoved together, resting on it, not really connected at all, just in proximity. I am AMAZED that it's run as well as it has in this condition. Anyway, my replacement plugs are the resistor plugs (BPR6ES) that replaced the old NGK BP6ES. So - do I need to pay attention to this when getting a replacement cap/wire? Can I still just replace the one defective wire and plug cap with OEM type, or do I need to replace all 4 with something else to match the resistor plugs? Thanks in advance.
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What spark plug wires in this case?
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Ummh.... (´・_・`)
I'd go with "replace the one defective wire and plug cap with OEM type" but with one mOaR consideration. (⊙.☉)
Personally I haven't been running the BPR6ES reszisistor plugs. Not likin' the fact that adding resisistance robbs the downstream spark of actual energy on my ignition coils which are OEM/40 years old. щ(゚Д゚щ)
Just so folks in the lane next to me can listen to their AM radio? (⩾﹏⩽)
Nope. Nope. Nope. (•﹏•)
Imma running the non-resistor plugs. Not the NGK's since they're NLA or like finding hen's teeth. (-‸ ლ)
Here's a list of the OTHER options if yur willing to let go of the irresistable urge to buy NGK-
https://xs11.club/forum/maintenance/...-for-xs11-list
Choose your own spark plug adventure begins....now. ( ‾́ ◡ ‾́ )
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Run COPPER spark plug wires, and replace the resistor plug caps with non-resistor caps and you will have no problems running resistor plugs. I'm running the iridium plugs in my XS, and it does fine. They are resistor type, so I just ordered the non resistor NGK caps.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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Very timely, as I've been dealing with some ignition issues after installing some resistor type NGK plugs on my '78, which had silicone core suppression type wires (9kOhm resistance measured over the length of each wire), and Dyna orange coils, and the stock ballast resistor in place. I've become much more aware of just how much I had stacked the deck against myself, so to speak. So I've got some NGK non-resistor plugs on order, along with Dynatek copper core wires to run with my coils, and ballast resistor in bypass.Yamahas: 1979 XS1100F
Past Yamahas: 1978 XS1100E, 1976 XS500C
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Thanks, y'all. I could not find the non-resistor plugs locally, and a mechanic sold me on the resistor ones. I see opinions are mixed, so I'm still a little unsure which way to go. I don't mind switching back to non-resistor plugs if that's the way to go. More info and opinions on this? My knowledge base on electronics is zero, so anything helps here.
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Easy rules for good spark.
1. NEVER run anything except copper plug wires on an XS1100.
2. Do NOT run without the ballast resistor if your coils are less than 3 Ohms. You will fry the TCI box.
3. With resistor plugs, the spark is best with non-resistor caps. You can run resistor caps, but you will lose a bit of the power at the plug.
4. Test resistance at the coil, both sides, and the plug caps if you do not know what is in your bike.Ray Matteis
KE6NHG
XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!
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MoAr Opinions? (´・_・`)
Alrighty then! (◑‿◐)
But befOaR we push onwards into the WuNdErS of the XS1100 ignition system... (O_o)
When you say, "just replace the one defective wire"..... ( •_•)
Are we talking about some aftermarket ignition coils already installed (where the coils and wires are seperate/replaceable)?
Or are we dealing with the OEM/40 year old Nippondenso's what came from the Yamaha Factory where the the high tension leads are integrated/assembled INTO the coils and NOT seperate/replaceable? (◎-◎)
Well....unless one goes thru the HeRoIcS as esplained here-
https://xs11.club/forum/repairs/batt...s-in-old-coils
I s'pose the original pics got lost/misplaced in the transition to the new forum, but the dealio wuz to use a dremmel tool to CAREFULLY grind away part of the coil's bakelite housing at a specified place, wrangle the wire offa the internal pin/post, then insert the high tension lead of choice. Mebbe some silicone sealant as an adhesive to hold them wires in place. (。•̀ᴗ-)✧
SOOooo....mebbe take a step backwurdz and get some possibly useful data before we move on? (*゚ー゚)ゞ
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OH! BefOaR I forget! (⊙_◎)
Running these plugs which happen to be available at Autozone-
https://www.autozone.com/external-en...64_160796_1367
O'course, NOT at the brick-and-mortar store nearest to my home but the one in the same NE quadrant Imma living in. ¯\_(⊙_ʖ⊙)_/¯
Just the way imma dealing with the NGK resistor plug being the one sold instead'a the NON resisisister one the factory engineers said would wurky with the OEM resistor caps already on my bike. (´~`ヾ)
I just gotta not mix these champion copper plugs up with the similar ones I use on my 1989 FuRd Ranger which is a 4 cylinder as well but has 8 (Eight) spark plugs cuz it ALSO uses a "waste-spark" in each cylinder like all the XS1100's. ミ●﹏☉ミ
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