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  • 2nd gear...

    Si...I finally got the oil pan pulled and continued with the 2nd gear fix directions. The dogs on the gears look fine so 2nd gear can't be in that bad of shape (I was going off the sellers description). He had said that when he took it into the dealership that they had said a small shaft was broken in the transmission and that they didn't have it on hand and would have to order (but bike was on ebay already). He said the mechanic had cut a shaft and installed it for temp use...anyways amongst the tranny parts Andreas sent me was a small shaft about 3-4" long and 1/2" in diameter. I can't find this shaft in the microfiche.

    Any ideas what it's for or where it goes?

    Thanks,
    Clark

  • #2
    If it has a small gear on on end and one side of shaft is not completly round(one flat edge) that is for running the oil pump.both sides have a place for a clip a little in from the the end.Try looking athe microfiche for oil pump It might be the oil pump shaft.

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    • #3
      Hey Clark,

      Looks CAN be deceiving, it only takes a little rounding off of the tip of the gear dog to cause it to skip, slip out of engagement. These are square 90 degree cut..the engaging angles, and so just a slight wear on the dogs, and also on the slots, can produce the 2nd gear problem, so since you've already got it apart, it's best to go ahead and dremmel them to get a slight undercut angle on both the 2nd gear dogs and the 5th gear slots, you'll be happier if you do it now!! And don't forget to inspect 1st and 4th, a little preventative effort NOW can be worth avoiding another tear down into the tranny later!!
      T.C.
      T. C. Gresham
      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
      History shows again and again,
      How nature points out the folly of men!

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      • #4
        CWilliamson, be sure and move the washer to the other side of the gear. Bevel the inside edge until it rotates freely. It will last forever under normal use then.
        "We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey." "

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        • #5
          As others have said her Winterhawk, and I agree; not a good idea to have gear riding up against a circlip without thrust washer present!
          81H Venturer1100 "The Bentley" (on steroids) 97 Yamaha YZ250(age reducer) 92 Honda ST1100 "Twisty"(touring rocket) Age is relative to the number of seconds counted 'airing' out an 85ft. table-top.

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          • #6
            Since Bob Jones at Merriam Cycle came up with this idea I know of some people who have thousands of miles after the washer move. I think I've done about 5 bikes 2nd gear Mods on XS Elevens and love the results. Going to do my bike this winter. Right now I still ride it everyday to work and have for the past 9 months. Rain and shine.
            "We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey." "

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            • #7
              thanks for the advise

              Andreas, the shaft in question doesn't have any gearing it's just a smooth shaft, no cuts for clips.

              TC, can I take the gears off without splitting the case? I really don't trust myself to undercut the dogs...(I'm an artist and I tend to get caught up in what is asthetically pleasing vs what is functionally correct). I bought a tranny from Andreas a while back and the gears on it look good. I'd prefer to just swap them out and set up a jig to do the undercutting on the dremel drill press I have (keeps me from making mistakes that way).


              Winterhawk I will had read Bob's info on moving it and will probably move the washer.

              I am also going to be converting to the universal petcocks from partsnmore this weekend and will photograph the entire process so that it can be posted here.

              Clark

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              • #8
                Then it is probably a piece for the shifter mechanism. I send you more than you needed.

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                • #9
                  Hey Clark,

                  I know you can take the countershaft gears out without splitting the cases, but don't really know about the primary gears, but I think not! The countershaft gears are the ones with the dogs and slots that wear, not the primary gears, so you should need to remove the primary gears!

                  It's amazing how precises the Human Eye is in seeing variances in surfaces, but a caliper helps! The dremmel drill press sounds okay for the slots, but the dogs have to be shaped by following the curvature of the dog, not sure how you can do that with a drill press setup? A CNC mill, probably!
                  T.C.
                  T. C. Gresham
                  81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                  79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                  History shows again and again,
                  How nature points out the folly of men!

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    almost done

                    So I switched out the new gear for the old (I saw it was worn once I actually had it pulled) and the fork associated with it was pretty banged up (fresh gouges in it) so I replaced that too. I cleaned up the oil pan and found that the washer and circlip that hold the shaft that the forks mount on was buried under a layer gunk. No metal shavings though. I put the pan back on and fitted the clutch basket in position, tightened it all down but when I put the side cover back on (right/clutch side) I can't seem to rotate the clutch mount to feel it engage. Any ideas? Is there some trick to putting the side cover back on? Does it only start working when you get everything on the left/shifter side put together?

                    Thanks,
                    Clark

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                    • #11
                      Hey Clark,

                      A warning in the manual states DO NOT ROTATE the clutch mechanism until the cover is completely tightened down, so the throwout/pushrod is against the throwout bearing/starplate!! There are little ball bearings that can fall out or become dislodged and the mechanism may not work right, or bind, due to uneven pressure due to missing ball bearings!!

                      Also, you may need to adjust the pushrod using the clutch adjustment technique described in the tech tips. But it's not much of a distance, and until the clutch cover is tightened down you won't be able to feel any resistance of the lever cause it won't be making contact.

                      But, no, the left side covers do not have to be in place to get the feel of the clutch throwout rod/lever.
                      Hope this helps!? T.C.
                      T. C. Gresham
                      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                      History shows again and again,
                      How nature points out the folly of men!

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Probably should have duct taped that clutch mechanism in place...

                        I guess I'll be tinkering with it trying to get it to work right.

                        Thanks for the input,
                        Clark

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