weather changing

[oldyam80sg]

So I put my SG away back in December in my storage unit. I figuered I would start it every weekend, and maybe I would not have to removed the carbs and battery. We had a snowstorm last weekend and lots of rain followed that to wash away all the snow. Today I went to start the bike and lots of condensation on the bike . My other bike is covered and that cover had condensation on it. Temperature is supposed to get cold again starting this week and more talk of snow. Thinking I should remove the carbs and battery and cover it.

[Radioguylogs]

If you cover it, make sure you use a cover that breathes, so the condensation can dry up when it happens. I imagine you already know that though.

[cajun31]

So I put my SG away back in December in my storage unit. I figuered I would start it every weekend, and maybe I would not have to removed the carbs and battery. We had a snowstorm last weekend and lots of rain followed that to wash away all the snow. Today I went to start the bike and lots of condensation on the bike . My other bike is covered and that cover had condensation on it. Temperature is supposed to get cold again starting this week and more talk of snow. Thinking I should remove the carbs and battery and cover it.

I am assuming you don't have any electricity going to your unit and is the reason you have to remove the battery. Heat kills a battery quicker the cold but if you have no way to leave a trickle charger on it then probably best to take the battery out. I don't really see why you are removing the carbs. If you drain them properly and ensure that your petcocks are working properly then why remove them? Just leave them on and your bike should start right up again in the spring.

[DEEBS11]

Oldyam, when I store a bike in less that perfect conditions I spray the entire bike with WD40 Big Blast. Spoiler alert - It's just fish oil. Protects everything including paint and washes off easily with Simple Green in the spring. I have done this many times and it works great.

[LAB3]

Starting the bike without getting it up to full operating temperature is going to create water vapor inside the engine which won't evaporate the way it should causing rust and sludge on the internal parts. If you've ever torn down a car engine used for quick runs in the city you'll see exactly what happens! Put some stabilizer in the fuel and bring your battery to where you can put it on a tender, you'll be glad you did in the long run.

[oldyam80sg]

DEEBS11-I will have to try that. Cajun31- how do i drain my carbs on my 80 SG? In all my time owning this bike- (1986) never drained them as I just started it and rode it. Please dont tell me those bolts at the bottom.

[red bandit]

Um yep. If you have 80 carbs it's the bolt on the bottom of the float bowl. Putting it back in is fun on the inner two carbs.

[oldyam80sg]

It is alot easier to remove the carbs since no airbox. I just have to remove 2 fuel lines and loosen the manifold screws.

[Schming]

DEEBS11-I will have to try that. Cajun31- how do i drain my carbs on my 80 SG? In all my time owning this bike- (1986) never drained them as I just started it and rode it. Please dont tell me those bolts at the bottom.

IMHO, for what it's worth, in your situation, I would leave the carbs on and follow LAB3's advice. Just fill the tank and add a good fuel stabilizer run the bike so the mix gets to the carbs. you really don't want the carbs to dry out. Leaving air space inside the float bowls invites moisture.

[oldyam80sg]

The ethanol gas in NJ is crap. I will fill the tank with fuel (3/4 full now) but last season I took off the carbs and cleaned them really good. I dont care how much ethanol treatment you use, gas will gum up quickly. It has happened to me on my ZRX just last year. I also have to remove the battery as I dont have power at my storage unit I can use. I can put Techtron as that is what automobile manufactures use.

[Schming]

I hear ya about the quality of fuel nowadays, I remember in the sixties Premium had a purple-blue color and smelled like giddy-up, these bikes wouldn't have the fuel system problems if that was still around.

I use Stabil in every tank full regardless of being stored or run daily and Happy Fuel for long term storage.

https://happyfuel.net/hf15-3-pack/

[cajun31]

It is alot easier to remove the carbs since no airbox. I just have to remove 2 fuel lines and loosen the manifold screws.

Ethanol is the enemy for sure. If you don't have an airbox then getting to those bolts on the bottom of the bowls should be much easier. Putting stabilizer in and running them dry (until the bike stops running) only leaves a small portion of gas in the very bottom of the bowls. It can still turn into a science experiment with ethanol in it. Not everyone's situation is the same so you have to do what you have to do. Bottom line is you have to do what you are comfortable with. If it works then all is good. The one thing mentioned above is that what you really don't want to do is start the bike up and then shut it down without getting the bike up to actual riding temperature. The condensation you are creating, as was stated is not good for anything. The sludge is on thing but it will also leave moisture in your pipes that will eventually cause them to rust through it varying different spots. As finicky as these carbs are to keep tuned properly and synched is the main reason I suggest not removing them. Might not be that big a factor and if you have the proper tools available to check everything in the spring then no problem.

[oldyam80sg]

I will run fuel stabilizer and stabil in the tank next weekend and yank the battery. If I do drain the carbs via the bolt in the bottom of the float bowl-is there a metal washer there and is it available?

[oldyam80sg]

I hear ya about the quality of fuel nowadays, I remember in the sixties Premium had a purple-blue color and smelled like giddy-up, these bikes wouldn't have the fuel system problems if that was still around.

I use Stabil in every tank full regardless of being stored or run daily and Happy Fuel for long term storage.

https://happyfuel.net/hf15-3-pack/

I worked at a gas station back in 1983 in high school and the gas was not only cheaper, but smelled like gas.I worked at various gas stations up until 2000. Gas smelled different then back in the 70's and 80's. I drained my ZRX fuel tank last year after it sat and it was a brown color.

[cajun31]

I will run fuel stabilizer and stabil in the tank next weekend and yank the battery. If I do drain the carbs via the bolt in the bottom of the float bowl-is there a metal washer there and is it available?

Yes there is a washer and yes it is available. Part number 48. It is a copper washer. Yamaha 256-14956-01-00 - WASHER | Partzilla.com