78 xs 11 carbs. Defective fuel T’s

[jkorn]

Carb Tee’s. Went to fire up the 11 and one of the carb tee’s was leaking like mad. I’ve “fixed” in the past by just moving the tee back and forth. Not this time. I’ve had the carbs apart so many times I’ve lost count, but have never removed them from the rail that hold them together. Tried once but the screws holding them on would not budge.

So, I wondering if someone could shed some light on the process to replace the Tee’s and maybe a source for them.

Also one or both of the gas tank valves we leaking slightly. I wonder if breaking them apart and applying a little grease on the rubber part will seal them??

thanks. Jeff

[DiverRay]

To remove the carb bodies, warm up the carb near the screws with a heat gun. Use an impact driver with a GOOD FITTING BIT and you should be able to remove the screws without too much damage to the head.
Once apart, pull both the vacuum and fuel "T" fittings. You will see they are coated in rubber, and it's probably cracked. You can remove the rubber with a small wire wheel on a drill, and source a few nitrile "O" rings to put on the "T".
When you re-assemble the carbs, use an allen head screw to replace the phillips head. Do put some blue locktite on the threads so they don't loosen up.

[cajun31]

Another alternative to what Ray has told you is to get new ones from Ebay. Just keep in mind that the lower T's and the Upper T's are not the same size. Yamaha xs1100 fuel tees for sale | eBay

[jkorn]

Hey, thanks those look great. Probably much better than stock. Would you know which part is for what fuel vs vacuum??

any additional suggestions on getting the carbs separated?

[cajun31]

Hey, thanks those look great. Probably much better than stock. Would you know which part is for what fuel vs vacuum??

any additional suggestions on getting the carbs separated?

What Ray has stated is the best way to get those carbs separated. I have never owned a standard which is what you have. I was looking at the schematics on your carbs and it looks like the 78 and 79 carbs were different concerning those T's. If you have the 1978 carbs and they have not been changed over the years, which happens, then your T's are the same. In 79 they changed them and there were two different sizes. Yours are size T4 YAMAHA FJ600 XS750 XS1100 CARBURETOR CARB BRASS FUEL TEE FITTING 2H7-14988-00 | eBay. There are size T3 listings as well. YAMAHA XJ600 XJ750 XS750 XS1100 CARBURETOR CARB BRASS FUEL TEE 1J7-14988-00 | eBay. The listing I just pasted shows you the size as part of the description. You can verify that once you get the carbs disassembled.
Yamaha Motorcycle 1979 OEM Parts Diagram for CARBURETOR | Partzilla.com part numbers 72 and 78.

[Radioguylogs]

Oftentimes the T's have dired out to cause the leak, and when they are exposed to fuel, they swell again and seal OK. It's something that will be evident overnight.

[jkorn]

Mike, now that you mention that, I’m guessing that I’ve had this happen multiple times over the years. And yes it did stop. Frustrating..

So, the million dollar question…. Is it worth the hassle to pull them apart and replace with, maybe better parts and not go thru this again. The 11 is getting a little long in the tooth as they say, and it’s been at least a couple of years since I’ve had to pull those 4 out and play with them. No idea how many times.. way back when to overcome stupid regulations, and then adding the Kirker. Main, needle position, pilots. I have a whole drawer full of carb bits.

She’s been good to me and I need to keep her in tip top shape.

I think I’ll pull them apart. Replace the bolts like I did years ago on the carb tops with allen bolts.

thanks all, and anymore bits I’d appreciate.

jeff

[jkorn]

Thanks for the part numbers.

[jkorn]

Ok, so it’s been awhile. I have 78 E, right?

[cajun31]

Ok, so it’s been awhile. I have 78 E, right?

Your serial number indicates you have a 1979. What color was your bike originally. Glad to see the T problem resolved. Another trick that some do is to lightly coat the T's with grease. Use silicon based not petroleum.

[DEEBS11]

This is a possible fix

https://www.ebay.com/itm/29341694716...Bk9SR9K_jKeeYw

[jkorn]

Your serial number indicates you have a 1979. What color was your bike originally. Glad to see the T problem resolved. Another trick that some do is to lightly coat the T's with grease. Use silicon based not petroleum.

I painted the bike black way back when, early 80’s, but I seem to remember it was the Macho Maroon color. Hummm. I seem to remember I wasn’t overly impressed with the color. But hey, I’ve slept since then….

just found title issued 2/28/79 and is shows 79 XS1100FB.
eSERIAL # ZH7021577

Jeff

[cajun31]

I painted the bike black way back when, early 80’s, but I seem to remember it was the Macho Maroon color. Hummm. I seem to remember I wasn’t overly impressed with the color. But hey, I’ve slept since then….

just found title issued 2/28/79 and is shows 79 XS1100FB.
eSERIAL # ZH7021577

Jeff

Remember what I said in previous response about your T's being different sizes on a 79. You asked should I replace because the leaks keep happening. I would at minimum replace the o rings. Yours are old as all oem are at this point and they have lost all their elasticity. When they sit and get dry they compress. They are probably getting harder and harder over time. There is a T mod in the maintenance tips section that addresses rebuilding them with new o rings. The new brass T's are built to be able to replace the o rings should you need to down the road. Considering the originals lasted as long as they have I would think that won't be an issue. You will have to decide for yourself how to proceed, but having the carbs apart to me dictates fixing them one way or the other or totally replace them.

Same story with your petcock base o rings. They are probably hard as a rock. The o rings included in most of the petcock rebuild kits are too small in diameter. I never use them because of that. You need a slightly larger one to make a good seal against the tank.

[jkorn]

Good thoughts.

Time and rubber not the best of friends. I’ve found rebuild kits for the fuel petkocks. This will be the second or third time for them. think I replace T’s with those brass ones. Maybe a little silicon grease will keep the rubber longer, but hey it’s been over 40 years. Never thought I’d have it this long.

heading out of town for a couple of months next week so I’ll tackle this project on my return. These “little” things can be very time consuming.

Don’t ride the xs much these days but it will be hard to part with it if and when. When all things are good it still runs like new… the Kerker sounds amazing, too bad all the fiberglass baffles are long gone😃

[DEEBS11]

Packing

https://www.ebay.com/itm/17615761124...Bk9SR-DB5NmeYw