Float Valve Tip

[simplyd1]

While standing by for my Parts&More Carb kits #48-1407 to arrive for my 79 XS1100SF (3H3).

I opened up the float bowl to have my initial look see. Floats on carb#1 and #4 stuck in place. I removed them cautiously. I freed the two float valves and noticed one valve had a rubber tip(on #4) and the rest carb(#1,2,and 3) had plain sharp tipped valves.

Did someone in the past goof????? on their rebuild????


Memo For Record: After my initial back to life startUp since 1999. The Air Box filled with GAS within minutes of turning the bike off. This will be my next adventure after I get some smarts reading threads.

[Ken Talbot]

Something is not right, but the trick is figuring out just what is wrong. Start with the valve seats - are they screw-in type, or are they a press-in type held in place with a 'U' shaped retainer? This will help to start narrowing things down.

[simplyd1]

The float valve seat is a screw in type for all four carbs. I'm getting all my know hows in order prior to getting this project done. Its just that one rubber tipped valve.

[John]

The rubber tipped needle was used in the 80-81 carbs. Your carbs should have all brass needles. I found two of those tips messed up when I first opened up Foster Childs carbs.

[simplyd1]

Thanks for the final word on the float valve. New parts on the way are the brass tipped ones.

Okay thats one dark cloud off my back. Now on to the next storm front.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there Gene/Simplyd1,

Memo For Record: After my initial back to life startUp since 1999. The Air Box filled with GAS within minutes of turning the bike off. This will be my next adventure after I get some smarts reading threads.

From fixing your float needles and seats, you'll fix the above mentioned problem, it's the float needles NOT sealing in the seats that allowed the fuel to flood the carbs, and back up thru the carb throats into your airbox!! Now, make sure that your vent tubes are clear, check the "T's" that connect to each pair to make sure they are not corroded and clogged, and that the vent hoses are clear and open, and that the nipples they attach to on the air box are also open and free breathing, or you'll have problems getting it to run right, the bowls need to be able to vent!!

Great name....and good song by Edgar Winter group, IIRC?!!
T.C.

[xj11john]

Simplyd1

I opened up the float bowl to have my initial look see. Floats on carb#1 and #4 stuck in place. I removed them cautiously. I freed the two float valves and noticed one valve had a rubber tip(on #4) and the rest carb(#1,2,and 3) had plain sharp tipped valves.

I see you had to free the stuck float valves, also make sure your floats are measuring the same on both sides- that is measure the highest point on both sides of the float to ensure that the float is level with the bowl as to not hit the side of the bowl and stick open and allow fuel to overflow.

Make sure all floats are measureing the same from gasket base to highest point on float, the important thing is not exact point you measure at but that all floats have the same measurement
(hope that makes sence)

Good luck, and if you havent already- check out the tech tips, or do some searches using key words and sentences to pinpoint the threads with this information, its been extensively covered.

[LoserShoes]

When you get done with the carbs, you'll want to check out your vacumn shutoff, the octopus, because regardless of stuck float valves, that is supposed to prevent fuel flow when the engine is shut off.

Enjoy
Steve

[Winterhawk]

Don't forget to check your vent lines and the vent openings in the air box. This caused a 1979 Special I did to flood even with new OEM needles and seats.