stripped float bowl screws

[oldyam80sg]

So after cleaning my carbs I have a stripped float bowl screw. I can't put in a bigger bolt in the float bowl without drilling. There is not really any room for a Heli-coil as the surface is not real thick. I guess I could lightly grind the one area and possibly put a nut on. Any advice on this?

[Radioguylogs]

Fill it with JB Weld and re-tap it?

[LAB3]

Back in the 80's I was on my shovelhead and coming up to an exit ramp letting off the throttle to let the engine do my braking. The spark plug in the rear cylinder popped out and caught me in the back of my thigh, not a fun event to say the least!

Trying to figure out how to get the bike back to where I could work on it with what I had available in my saddlebags a spare spark plug was slathered down with blue locktite, put it in the hole and I hoped for the best. It got me the 50 miles I needed, if I had some JB Weld I'd have probably tried that first.

[cajun31]

So after cleaning my carbs I have a stripped float bowl screw. I can't put in a bigger bolt in the float bowl without drilling. There is not really any room for a Heli-coil as the surface is not real thick. I guess I could lightly grind the one area and possibly put a nut on. Any advice on this?

Which side of the carb is it stripped on? Top or bottom? The reason I ask is because there is obviously more clearance on top then bottom where the float bowl is. I have drilled and tapped both. The next size mm screw or allen head bolt will rub lightly on the float bowl but still works.

[DEEBS11]

The nut idea would get you back on the road. I do not think the epoxy Idea would work because of the small space, heat, and petroleum environment. The carb hole could only be filled properly by Heli arcing but the heat generated and the machining leaves this type of repair unsuited. A 5mm Helicoil would be probably be the best repair as it does not generate heat or "glue" that probably would not hold. What # carb is it? I had an unrepairable #3 carb and I simply got a #3 off eBay and installed it. Perfect and relatively easy repair compared to the alternatives.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/35423832713...Bk9SR-Sx_-_RYQ


https://www.ebay.com/itm/28503150098...Bk9SR-Sx_-_RYQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/28503150592...Bk9SR-Sx_-_RYQ

https://www.ebay.com/itm/11564518086...Bk9SR-Kx_-_RYQ

[DEEBS11]

Another crazy "Get us off the island" idea: Safety wire it.

[jetmechmarty]

This is the stuff for that job. It works perfectly and holds fast.

https://youtu.be/XUU9FHB9XF4

[DEEBS11]

Marty, I used that kit when I restored my Indian in 1991. This is what is holding the original emblems on the tank. A few of the screw holes were so old they just didn't have any threads left. This repair has lasted 32 years.

[oldyam80sg]

I cant seem to find the loctite stripped thread repair anywhere. It is the #4 carb and I used a longer allen-head screw and some blue loctite and the screw is tight. It was only 1 screw. I used JIS screws I bought on McMaster Carr.

[oldyam80sg]

Pics attached.

[DEEBS11]

Looks good. I hope it works for you after fuel & heat. If not you still have some options.

[oldyam80sg]

The Allen head screw is tight. I have Hylomar if I have fuel leaks. I don't think it will leak. All the other screws were replaced with JIS screws and they were hand tight. I will buy a metric Heli-coil set soon. The carbs will be put on the bike just so I can get it out of my storage unit. I will ride it to my Moms garage, to install my Kawasaki GPZ 1100 carbs.