Carbs currently appart, help

[81xsproject]

The pic in the clymer for setting float height is of the old brass style where the round boby is the highest point. The diagram shows you measuring to that from the mating surface. But on the plastic float the round part is not the highest part. Which should i use and is the recommended height different for the 80 plastic floats? Sooner is better, because it is my commuter and I would like to put it back together tonight.
ThanXS

[JWSanders]

I used the highest point on the float. I think that's what was recommeded in earlier posts....

[motoman]

With the carb assembly on its side, tilt till the floats allow the needle to just seat. Measure to the top of metal piece attached to float. I'm running mine at 23mm on my 81H tour model. Earlier ones, you can go as much as 27mm. Depending on altitude,etc. the difference is about 1/10" on those two settings. I'm at 5,000ft. The key is to set all the same, (consistency). If it seems to be starving at the top end, there possibley too low. I like running on the lower end of the scale for starts, but whatever your preference, as long as there not flooding over.

[RiskyBusiness]

Check out Ken's pic in this thread

I found this VERY helpful.

[81xsproject]

Moto, are you running stock or do you have any exhaust/intake mods? I am just wanting to use your 23mm as a refernce point.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Jesse,

The 81's don't state a specific mm height in the manual, it says to use the hose attached to the bottom of the float bowl and it full of fuel! The 80's are stated to use the 23mm, and they are the same as the 81's, so that's why I used the 23mm for mine as well. I'm running 4-1 and Indy filters, btw.
T.C.

[motoman]

Hey Jesse........Ditto what Top Kat says, as I did mine just based on many years of experience with building fast cars and carb set-up being my forte, as I don't as of yet have a manual for these bikes. You also have to remember that all these settings, jetting, etc., are sea level reccomendations. For the most part bike engines are a smaller air pump than automotive engines and therefore don't have the exagerated reactions to our screw-ups like the large automotive displacements do. There more sutle, but can be just as devistating like too lean a mixture,etc. Just do one thing.....test before making another change so U don't get it all mixed up. The manuals out there are definitely a good thing to have, and I mostly use them for reference, but some of the procedures, I have to sniker at, unless it's a true factory repair and diagnostic manual.