Slipping clutch

[sermn8ter]

My clutch has always drug a little in first gear, ever since I bought it from the PO earlier this year. I figured that was a project for a later date since it didn't slip in any other gear, and actually didn't slip in first, it was just slow to execute, if that makes sense. Now since the weather has turned colder here in GA, it seems to slip in all gears at higher RPM's. Not necessarily even higher RPM's, but just if I "get on it" a little, then it slips. As long as I ease along like a good little boy I don't have too much trouble. Is this indicative of major trouble which should be addressed right away, or is there something I can do to alleviate it until the spring when I intended to do clutch, tranny, carb stuff to it anyway?

[bandet01]

have you tried adjusting the clutch yet i was haveing the same problem and i adjusted it and it all went away but i plan on still put in a new clutch this winter since i want to put racing springs in it since i am going to drag race it alot next summer

[Bud Manley]

Is this what it would do with Synthetic oil? I'm asking because thats what I've heard and I know someone will answer.
THIS THREAD discusses the various oils etc used.
In particuler I liked this experiment performed by Czekus21
I've read the links on this forum about the difference of oils, the pros and cons of synthetics verses regular oils. Then I've done my own tests. ( actually useing the oil in my bike ). All of the viscocities were 20-50.
Castrol,; Noisy engine, valves rattlin, slight clutch slippage under hard acceleration.
Yamaha lube,; Same thing, Not so much slippage in the clutch.
Kawa-chem,; Not so noisy engine, Still a little bit of clutch slippage but liveable.
Rotella "T",; very noisy engine.
Havoline,; Will never use agian. Noisy engine, Oil needed changed after only about 1000 miles.
Currentlly trying out Valvoline's new motorcycle oil. Engine is quiet, and no clutch slippage. Still clean after about 200 miles since change.
I will be trying out Amsoil next.
After that will be Royal Purple.

[sermn8ter]

both threads

I haven't attempted any adjustment yet because I don't have a manual to tell me how, and I am not too mechanically inclined. As for the question about oil, it prompted me to ask this question. Could over filling with oil cause this to happen?

[Bud Manley]

Clutch adjustment is super easy. I know this because I did it.
You can get pretty much all the info on doing anythign from this site. These guys are awesome. Thats why I hang out here. I'm hoping the awesomness rubs off on me.

Look at the tech tips from the main forumn page near the bottom. they say xs11 modifications: repairs: etc...
for instance.
Adjusting the clutch is found HERE

[sermn8ter]

Great

Thanks for the tip to the help page there. Pretty funny, the guy who did the tip is the PO of the bike I have. Micah Hodges. I suspect that means that mine is adjusted about as much as it is going to get, but I am going to dig into it this weekend and try it out anyway.

[LoserShoes]

Before you adjust anything else, make sure you have a little bit slack in the clutch lever before it starts pulling in the clutch. Too tight at the clutch lever adjuster can cause a clutch to slip also.

Steve

[robywan_kenobi]

Hey Sermn8ter, I had the same problem with the clutch in my 81H. I replaced the friction plates and clutch springs and cured my whole problem. You can find the friction plates and springs at a couple of different places relatively cheap. Here's a couple of links; http://www.bikebandit.com/partsbandi...ion_Path~3.asp , https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index...ategory=engine , http://www.oldbikebarn.com/motorcycl...h+Kits&Start=0 . In addition, I asked for help in this forum and TopCat was gracious enough to supply a step by step tutorial on replacing the plates and springs. View that thread here http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...&threadid=8216 . Replacing the clutch plates and springs really turned out to be a pretty simple job. Just be sure to read all the tech tips here and be sure to take care when putting the star plate (pressure plate) back in. It is apparently easy to break that plate if you don't get the little tabs on the back lined up correctly. Other than that it's a pretty simple job. Made a huge difference on my bike. I bought the EBC springs, they are advertised at 10% stiffer than stock and I can definitely feel it in the clutch lever. Anyhow, sounds like you need to replace the plates in the clutch to me and you might as well change the springs while you're in there. As an alternative, I have read some threads in this forum about shimming the clutch springs. Apparently some guys have had success with this method. Personally, I am of the opinion that if you're going to take the case cover off and pull the springs, you might as well replace them.

[sermn8ter]

Thanks

I agree totally about opening it up. If I have to do that I am replacing something. I'll read up on the tech tips and order the parts and dive in. Gotta learn some time. Maybe I can get Brent and Tom to come over and help out if I feed them or something.

[valhallan]

glad you asked this

i'm having the exact same problem on my little 400. i was also wondering about the oil, because right before it started i had changed the oil, and what came out looked like it was probably 10w-30 when it was new, however long ago that was, i replaced it with a "proper" motercycle synthetic, and was worried that this was part of the problem. as far as adjusting it goes, there is 0 play at the handle grip, you touch it at all and you start to activate the clutch. i'm not sure where to start with adjustments, since i'm learning as i go with this and with my 11.

[Cykotic]

it is very important that you have at least 1/16th of an inch play in the clutch cable or more preferably 1/8th of an inch for the clutch to disengage properly or you will no doubt experience quite a bit of slippage under hard acceleration. Mine did it for a while and this is what worked for me. by the way, i use no synthetic oils, the stuff is just too slippery for my eleven. The oil, synthetic or not, is like the beer you drink. Would you choose a nice heineken or would you choose Hamms. and if you choose Hamms, lol, i feel sorry for you.

[Winterhawk]

Easy remedy, Install a new clutch allowing them to soak overnight in the Motorcycle grade oil. Install it and back out the adjuster 1/4 turn from a lightly seated position. Run about a nickles width of play in the adjustment at the lever.

Use motorcycle type grade only. Automotive oils contains the additives that will glaze your plates and make them slip.

[skids]

So is Hamms a little to slippery for your innards?

Originally posted by Cykotic
(snip)The oil, synthetic or not, is like the beer you drink. Would you choose a nice heineken or would you choose Hamms. and if you choose Hamms, lol, i feel sorry for you.

[Cykotic]

not on my innards, but it does make my clutch slip.

[mro]

hey Winterhawk

"Use motorcycle type grade only. Automotive oils contains the additives that will glaze your plates and make them slip."


I've been running a 15/40 delo 400 in my 80G.

no problems yet, but sounds like I need to look into this.


mro