Maintenance questions

[jetmechmarty]

Are wheel bearing sealed units or are the re-greasable?

Typically, no. If you can regrease in place that's fine. Many replacement bearings have plastic covers. I replaced mine with OE Koyo. Left rear is the exception. It's harder to find, so grease in place.

Are they pretty stock appearing and do they fit easily in Stock location without. Modification?

XJ4Ever.com sells them as a kit. You get everything in one package. I took me thirty minutes or less to do the whole swap in my driveway. Otherwise, yes you can do it easily enough, but you'll be running back and forth to the hardware store or waiting for another brown truck delivery. The Dyna coils do not fit in the stock location without modification. XJ4Ever handles that for you, with simple instruction. My wife can't hold a screwdriver, but with that kit, she might be able to do the job! It's a couple of bucks and you don't have to reinvent the wheel.

[LugNut]

Is this the style automatic cam chain tensioner adjuster I need???

[LugNut]

4. I would upgrade to Dyna green 3 ohm coils and new wires. The factory wires are not easily replaceable.

Are they pretty stock appearing and do they fit easily in Stock location without. Modification?

[LugNut]

1) You'll need a special tool to do this with the tank on and it would still seem too fiddly for me. So, tank off. Modify a lawnmower tank or the like to run while you sync.

2) I remove the fork tube and rinse with solvent because I choose to fill by height rather than volume. Otherwise, use the drain. You'll get more fluid out by pumping the fork leg up and down. Oil replacement should be done routinely, maybe every third engine oil change. ATF is old school. Today, we have purpose made fork oil.

3) The most likely culprit is the cam chain tensioner. You'll have to clean and investigate.

4) Plug wires are integrated into the coils. If the coils work fine you don't have to fix them.

5) The stock cam chain tensioner is prone to leakage. The stock cam chain tensioner is prone to slip out of adjustment. Decide based upon that.

DON'T FORGET TO REPACK YOUR SWINGARM BEARINGS! They've probably never been serviced.

I use good synthetic fork oil... I use ATF to clean them out and drain again. I will look at swing arm bearing and wheel bearings also. Guess I'll make a smallngasntankntonuse when syncing carbs.

Are wheel bearing sealed units or are the re-greasable?

[jetmechmarty]

2. It is better to remove and disassemble the forks and clean them out properly, you would never believe the crud that accumulates in the bottom which will never come out thru the drain holes.

If not done in a long time, this is absolutely true. If done say every third engine oil change, you'll be far less likely to continue having this problem. Dirty fork oil will destroy your bushings.

[bikerphil]

1. There is room if you have a 90 degree screwdriver for carb tuning. If you want an easier and more accurate job, take the tank off and put it at the same level off to the side and rig up some temporary fuel lines.

2. It is better to remove and disassemble the forks and clean them out properly, you would never believe the crud that accumulates in the bottom which will never come out thru the drain holes.

3. One of the best modifications you can do is to convert to an automatic adjusting cam chain tensioner, one of a Venture or a V-Max will work. Please read the service manual before attempting to remove the old tensioner. If not done properly, valve train damage can occur.

4. I would upgrade to Dyna green 3 ohm coils and new wires. The factory wires are not easily replaceable.

[jetmechmarty]

1) You'll need a special tool to do this with the tank on and it would still seem too fiddly for me. So, tank off. Modify a lawnmower tank or the like to run while you sync.

2) I remove the fork tube and rinse with solvent because I choose to fill by height rather than volume. Otherwise, use the drain. You'll get more fluid out by pumping the fork leg up and down. Oil replacement should be done routinely, maybe every third engine oil change. ATF is old school. Today, we have purpose made fork oil.

3) The most likely culprit is the cam chain tensioner. You'll have to clean and investigate.

4) Plug wires are integrated into the coils. If the coils work fine you don't have to fix them.

5) The stock cam chain tensioner is prone to leakage. The stock cam chain tensioner is prone to slip out of adjustment. Decide based upon that.

DON'T FORGET TO REPACK YOUR SWINGARM BEARINGS! They've probably never been serviced.

[LugNut]

1979 xs1100 11,775 miles

Going to be changing every fluid, filter, plugs, sync carbs, complete brake overhaul, tires (regrease shaft drive) fork oil etc... Bike is in pristine shape but want it perfect mechanically as well...

1.) When syncing carbs are people removing tank or is there enough room to access screws with tank on?

2.) easiest/best way to flush old oil (never had a bike with a drain before always had to remove forks!) I would typically dump old oil and fill with ATF and slosh/pump and dump to clean forks out aside from merely draining.

3.) I have a leak underneath but haven't had time since hauling it home to investigate. Doesn't seem to be from drain plugs So I was thinking maybe chain tensioner area (haven't had time to do anything but a quick look underneath.. If so can a sealant be applied or do I have to remove/replace gasket?

4.) are the plug wire integrated into the coils (my Road Stars are) and if not where could I get stock looking wires IF not available from Yamaha.

5.) getting automatic cam chain tensioner vs adjusting stock one. I viewed the procedure for adjusting cam chain tensioner and it doesn't seem to bad. How often does this need to be done usually? I wouldn't mind putting an automatic one from a Vmax on and then setting it once and forget about it either. I don't plan on putting more than 1500 miles a year on this bike honestly and didn't know if it's worth swapping out the stock one to an automatic one.