Maintenance questions
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The 404 is a H rated ply tire. Meaning the specs on them are basically the same as the original Bridgestone tires that came on the bike. H rating basically means up to 130 MPH. I have them on my Harley but have never tried them on my MNS. I have always tried to find a RWL tire to match the OEM on the MNS. Getting harder to find now. Really don't know why Bridgestone has decided to quit making the S11 RWL tires. All I can find right now are BW. Of course I guess if I really wanted White Letters I could always get a few tubes of white tire paint and just color the letters in. -
Found a set of Dunlop D404’s for a good price so I’m going to give those a try on the XS. Had a pair on a ‘09 HD Dyna and they worked well.Leave a comment:
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There is an error in the Clymers manual concerning torque on the swing arm. It is off by a factor of 10 if I remember correctly. Be aware.1) You'll need a special tool to do this with the tank on and it would still seem too fiddly for me. So, tank off. Modify a lawnmower tank or the like to run while you sync.
2) I remove the fork tube and rinse with solvent because I choose to fill by height rather than volume. Otherwise, use the drain. You'll get more fluid out by pumping the fork leg up and down. Oil replacement should be done routinely, maybe every third engine oil change. ATF is old school. Today, we have purpose made fork oil.
3) The most likely culprit is the cam chain tensioner. You'll have to clean and investigate.
4) Plug wires are integrated into the coils. If the coils work fine you don't have to fix them.
5) The stock cam chain tensioner is prone to leakage. The stock cam chain tensioner is prone to slip out of adjustment. Decide based upon that.
DON'T FORGET TO REPACK YOUR SWINGARM BEARINGS! They've probably never been serviced.
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I like the tourmaster I run on my Kawasaki, that rear has some straight line traction in the first half of it's life. I tried the 777's on the XS11 and like those as well but only have a couple of hundred miles on them. For the price they are tough to beat.Leave a comment:
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Yep I ordered those exactly... Can get front rwl but the discontinued rear as rwl just plain black wall. I even called and double checked before I ordered. They said yes rear was rwl. They was wrong. I ordered both and now have to return them at a loss of $30+ for sh/rwstocking. I just ordered tourmaster 230's.Leave a comment:
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Hi Lugnut, A couple of years ago I purchased Bridgestone Spitfire S11 RWL for both the front and rear. They were the only RWL set that I could find at the time. might be worth a quick search if you want RWL. Good luck.Leave a comment:
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Got front wheel bearing and rear wheel bearings coming... Figure I can regrease the swing arm bearings easily enough. New tires are an issue... No one makes raised white letter for BOTH front and rear.. So probably going to go with Shinko Tourmaster 230 tires (just put these on my Vmax and seem nice). This bike won't get more than 500 miles a year more than likely (most just vintage bike show stuff)... Will be busy when all my parts and pieces come inLeave a comment:
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I use an AUX fuel container. As a tip, get a "T" and put two lines AFTER the shutoff valve and you can put the line together with a connector(lightly in place) to keep things out of the lines when not in use. I just hang mine from the handlebar, between the left control and the clutch. If it does not have a shut-off, just buy a brass ball valve and plumb it in.Leave a comment:
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Well got automatic cam chain tensioner coming.... And AUX fuel stand for syncing carbs (have 6 bikes and 3 of them have multiple carbs).... Only about $20 for the AUX fuel container that hangs....Leave a comment:
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Any links for the cam tensioner upgrade?
Best model to use and year?
my original (1980, 35k mi.) is leaking and a bit of chain noise when cold. ThanksLeave a comment:
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I've always just elevated the tank with a few short 1x6 boards, front and back, to sync the carbs. Didn't have to disconnect the level sensor or fuel lines this way.
---BaxLeave a comment:
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Great advice so far. As for synching the carbs and adjusting the idle mixture screws I just remove my seat and turn my tank around backwards. support the top end of the tank with a 2 x 4 which also elevates it. This allows full access to all the screws for both synch and idle mixture checks. I always removed the forks to service them. Especially if they haven't been done in forever. You will almost always find some gunk build up in the bottoms of them. Once fully disassembled you can run and old rag down in them. I just use the old fork oil on the rag. You can devise something to plunge the rag in and out.Last edited by cajun31; 04-22-2021, 07:30 PM.Leave a comment:
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Here is the write-up I did. That kit is painless!
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Very cool thanks!
Typically, no. If you can regrease in place that's fine. Many replacement bearings have plastic covers. I replaced mine with OE Koyo. Left rear is the exception. It's harder to find, so grease in place.
XJ4Ever.com sells them as a kit. You get everything in one package. I took me thirty minutes or less to do the whole swap in my driveway. Otherwise, yes you can do it easily enough, but you'll be running back and forth to the hardware store or waiting for another brown truck delivery. The Dyna coils do not fit in the stock location without modification. XJ4Ever handles that for you, with simple instruction. My wife can't hold a screwdriver, but with that kit, she might be able to do the job! It's a couple of bucks and you don't have to reinvent the wheel.Leave a comment:
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