Announcement

Collapse
No announcement yet.

Just isn't my day...

Collapse
X
 
  • Filter
  • Time
  • Show
Clear All
new posts

  • Just isn't my day...

    Finally got a chance to work on the 2nd gear problem and naturally I skipped the remove oil pan step until I had everything else pulled (both side covers and both sides are stripped.). Oopps!!! left hand exhaust is welded where it should be bolted. ugh! Have to remove the headers...crap that's a huge allen head on the header and I don't have anything that large.

    Well hell, Been needing to bleed the brakes. Open the MC and it's the consistancy and color of maple syrup on a cold day. Drain it and start clearing the sludge. This means the return hole is probably clogged. Scrub it down with fresh, siphon it off with turkey baster, add more fresh, pump brake, goop starts coming into clean, repeat steps. Add fresh and pull out the old miti-vac. Left side pumps fine. Right side is completely clogged. Looks like I'll need to rebuild the calipers too... :-/

    Well hell # 2. I might as well finish the carbs. #1 needs the pilot jet (that's the one under the cover right?) easy outed because PO stripped it out. Twist...twist...SNAP...<Clark switches to sailor mode and resists the urge to send tools flying...

    So...Thanks for letting me rant. Here are my questions...

    1. What size allen bolt is on the headers?

    2. Can I use any 34mm CV Mikuni carb body since I really doubt that I can get the easy out out? Does it have to be a #1 carb from a XS11?

    3. What's the cheapest place to get caliper rebuild kits from?

    Thanks,
    Clark
    '79 XS11SF

  • #2
    Shouldn't need kit for caliper

    Just disassemble and clean. Smooth the piston and bore with fine sandpaper if needed. Scrap the hardened crap offa the large O ring with your thumbnail.
    Right side is completely clogged. Looks like I'll need to rebuild the calipers too...
    ...meaning that no brake fluid came outta the bleedscrew? Those things get plugged with dirst and rust. Unplug with a piece of wire.
    "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

    Comment


    • #3
      Hmmm... all good news... your brakes will work and your bike will run just fine and you wont get killed coz of it.

      1. 6 I think... did it today, the largest one in my set
      2. I dont think any mikuni body would do. You can probbably repair this one or fish on ebay.
      3. Dunno in US. In yurp theres louis and ebay. And this forum.

      LP

      PS: Good luck!
      If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
      (stole that one from I-dont-know-who)

      Comment


      • #4
        I know the feeling bro...that's why us Canadian's have a winter...6 months of nothing to do but rebuild the bike...And ebay has a couple rebuild kits kicking around, I will find the like and edit it in when I go there
        80' Xs eleven special "The Tank"

        Comment


        • #5
          All is not lost, Clark. It is not real easy or fast, but you can get out a broken-off easy-out with a diamond burr in a dremel tool.

          DAMHIKIJD....
          Ken Talbot

          Comment


          • #6
            Not stealing this thread. I just feel the title fits my day.
            Putting the engine back in my truck. I was rotating the flywheel to line-up the bolt holes. The flywheel slipped off the end of the crank (working on the ground with the motor suspended and propped from the hoist) smashing and (re)breaking my middle finger. Looks like I'll lose the fingernail. At least the engine is now back in the truck and all the stuff is going back on. Not easy to do using my left hand.
            Pat Kelly
            <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

            1978 XS1100E (The Force)
            1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
            2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
            1999 Suburban (The Ship)
            1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
            1968 F100 (Valentine)

            "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

            Comment


            • #7
              I have a #4 mikuni carb complete . It is a 78/79 xs1100 carb. I am not sure if you can put #4 in place of #1 e-mail to andreashweiss@yahoo.com

              Comment


              • #8
                All sounds perfectly normal to me for most bikes... lol I've seen some K+L repair kits that the square o-ring is slightly larger causing the rear calipers to bind up some on Maxims. Clean off the old caliper o-ring and it will probably work fine.
                "We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey." "

                Comment


                • #9
                  Mikes XS do caliper rebuild kits for $17.

                  It's part number 08-0204
                  Brian
                  XS1100 LG "Mr T", SG "ICBM" & FJ1200
                  Check out the XS Part Number Finder

                  Be not stingy in what costs nothing as courtesy, counsel and countenance.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Let me know if you still need a carb. I can send you a #1 carb, complete. It is off a 78 or 79 standard.
                    The #1 and #3 carbs can be interchanged. the #2 and #4 probably will NOT work. They don't have the tapped holes for mounting the idle adjuster or choke lever.
                    I will be out of town for a week, so let me know and I'll get it off to you.
                    Ray
                    Ray Matteis
                    KE6NHG
                    XS1100 E '78 (winter project)
                    XS1100 SF Bob Jones worked on it!

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Thanks for all the input

                      Feeling' better now.

                      The header bolts are larger than 6mm (I have a 6mm socket for my old xs850 headers and it free floats in the hole). I think they are 8mm. Will have to look when I get home tonight.

                      Pat, misery loves company. Sorry about your hand. Hope your finger heals quickly.

                      As far as the brakes go the last time I pulled brakes apart was on my old '67 mustang when I was in the AF. Should come back to me quickly enough. I think I still have a honing attachment for a drill for cleaning the bores up. I'll probably go through all three calipers now and order rebuild kits if necessary. Better safe than sorry.

                      Ken, how do I use a diamond burr? do I core the easy out and then try to unscrew it? I think I better just get a new carb and work on this one and pass it on to whomever needs it the next time someone needs one.

                      DiverRay - Good info, thanks. PM me how much and where to send for the #1 carb.

                      Thanks all, I'll let you know how it goes.
                      Clark

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Clark,

                        That old honing attachment is made for steel slave cylinder bores, the kind that your '67 Mustang had!

                        In those cylinders, the seal is attached to the piston and rides with it, so the bore occaisionally needed to be 'cleaned up'.

                        Our calipers are made of aluminum and the seal is fixed in the bore. Using the hone wouldn't accomplish much.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          No sleeve?

                          Good to know. I had assumed that there was a steel sleeve for the bore. Will put that tool back in the muscle car tool box.

                          Clark

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Header flange

                            Correct. Header flange allen head = 8 mm.
                            Rick
                            '80 SG
                            '88 FXR
                            '66 Spitfire MK II

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Re: Thanks for all the input

                              Originally posted by CWilliamson

                              Ken, how do I use a diamond burr? do I core the easy out and then try to unscrew it?
                              Basically, yes, or you can drill a hole through the centre of the ezout and keep enlarging it until you pretty much grind it all away. I never said this would be fast. You can continue boring out the offending jet too - just be careful not to go so far that you start grinding the threads in the carb body. If you get the hole enlarged enough, you will be able to use a larger ezout with less chance of snapping it off. The set of diamond burrs I use ranges from approx 0.6mm point size to approx 3.0mm
                              Ken Talbot

                              Comment

                              Working...
                              X