Rear Brake Pad Change Out - Is There A "Trick" To Getting New Pads To Actually Fit??

[UncleSpot]

Let me start this by saying, "HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!"

Yesterday I got a new tire at a M/C shop 200 ft from my shop; I took the tire off and got it changed (New Dunlop 491 Elite II), and when I was putting it back on the brake caliper FELL APART! The bolt that holds the caliper to the bracket was GONE... no problem; I just walked back to the M/C shop and got a 8x45mm bolt and put it back together... I thought it would be a good idea to check the brake pads, since it's been 2 years since they were last changed - there was LESS than 1mm of pad left. I got a new set of EBC FA34 pads.

I am attempting to do a rear brake job this morning, BUT, there is physically NOT enough room with new EBC FA34 brake pads to fit everything back together! (Instructional videos are 15-20 years overdue IMO.) There is actually about FIVE mm of material keeping this thing from going back together. I used a Visegrip/C clap to compress the caliper as far as it would go, and I've read both my Yamaha AND Clymer shop manuals and they don't mention ANYTHING about TOO much material to FORCE the caliper back on to the brake disc... Is there a "trick" to this???????????
What am I missing????????????? (Front brake pads are a LOT easier to do IMO)

Give me a call if you can help out - l ONLY have my XS11 to get back and forth to work... and I AM STUCK at home until this thing gets back together.....

Cell: (209) 606-6467
XSive regards,
Ron (Uncle Spot)

[UncleSpot]

got it...

TECH TIP: do NOT attempt doing brakes without:
1) Visegrip C-clamp: to compress caliper to fit new pads in.
2) BFS (screwdriver): to pry pads apart when you're using #3
3) BFH (hammer): to knock caliper assembly down onto brake disc

The only good thing the shop manuals spelled out was that you DO have to remove the axle - but you do NOT have to remove the wheel (for anything...) ...because the caliper bracket and Torque Stop bracket have to be "moved around".

NOTE: there ARE "tricks" to doing the front brake pads, and the shop manual doesn't cover all of them... I think I just found the 1st instructional video material...

[Ken Talbot]

Looks like you're got it sorted out. Did you also remember to remove the retaining screw from the inboard side of the caliper before trying to use the BFH to knock the assembly down over the disk?

[randy]

You do NOT have to remove the axle.

Remove the screw by using a long phillips screwdriver from the drive side , through the spokes.

Then remove the bolt (12mm head) and the caliper will lift off.

Compress the piston, then remove the pads.

Re-install in reverse

[Winterhawk]

Make sure you don't have the master cylinder filled to much.

[UncleSpot]

Winterhawk,
I took the master cylinder cap/rubber off, siphoned almost all of the brake fluid out, and then used the Vicegrip C-clamp to compress the caliper...

THE thing I forgot to do was to use some sandpaper on the brake pads before installing them - that's always helped on every disc brake job I've ever done... so I just "rode the brakes" about 100 yards before getting into traffic...

...now I have 2 new tires, and fresh rear brakes - It rained this morning and I wanted to make sure I was gonna stay UP when I rode...

I'm gonna change the brake pads on the front when I change the SG for the LG front end on Sunday (tomorrow).

thanks for posting all the helpful hints, maybe this will help someone who has never changed their rear brake pads...

[DiverRay]

Ron;
Randy has it correct for changing rear brake pads. I had to do mine Saturday, and it took me all of 15 minutes. The bolt is the one at the Bottom of the caliper. You then lift off the caliper, retract the piston, pull the pads off the holder that is still on the rear axle, and reverse.
Don't forget to coat everything with a little bit of high temp grease.
Ray

[Jerry]

Instead of "C" clamp for piston, why not use the (relatively cheap) tool that makes life easier? A disk brake pad spreader. I use this on most of my car brakes and all 3 calipers of the XJ.



Sells in the $6 - $7 range, or you can often find them in the 'bargain bin' at your local parts house. Works like a champ.

[DiverRay]

Jerry, your taking all the fun out of the repair. Where is the challenge?
If you have and use all the proper tools, everyone will be able to replace pads in 10 minutes, and I'll have to speed up to 5!!
Ray