Bare Bones Electrical System

[Artic_rider]

This spring I was having some trouble with my electircal system, and ended up tearing right into it to figure the problem out. My question now is, with winter fast aproching, and the fact that the bike is going to be stripped, and restored, what is essential for the bike, and what can be spliced together. I am planning on going with a custom speedo and tack, and a smaller cateye headlight. I know when I was searching for my electrical gremlin, and pulled apart the headlight, and there was a ton of connections back there. Any one had experiance in the area of simplifing the Japs mass confusion of wiring?

Eagerly waiting a responce!

[skids]

Re: Bare Bones Electrical System

The big problem there is the connectors. They take up the most room...and you do need to be able to disconnect components from time to time.

Originally posted by Artic_rider
I know when I was searching for my electrical gremlin, and pulled apart the headlight, and there was a ton of connections back there. Any one had experiance in the area of simplifing the Japs mass confusion of wiring?

Eagerly waiting a responce!

[DiverRay]

For a "bare bones" electrical, you will still need a few connectors.
The headlight mess can be made smaller.
1. Are you going to use the yamaha controller, or aftermarket? The custom speedo will work, the tach MUST be for an XS1100. You can use a tach of the SF if you want a round tach. The idiot lights can go, and if you make your own "new" wire harness, you can get rid of a lot of connectors.
2. A true "bare bones" will be battery, regulator/rectifier, pickup coils, ignition unit, and ignition switch. For lights you will need brake light switches, front and rear, Head and tail light, and turn signals.
I would reuse some of the wireing, and add the direct/new stuff to it.
just my $0.02
Ray

[TopCatGr58]

Hey DiverRay,

As for the TACH, he CAN use an aftermarket type, as long as it's electrical, and runs off the coils. They are a bit pricey($100.00+) in the models that go up to 10Krpm, needed for the 8.5krpm+ range, vs. the cheaper auto 6k ranges. Also, they usually have a selector so you can pick from 2cylinder,3, 4, 5 ,6, 8, but because it'll be reading 1 coil for 2 cylinders, vs. 1 coil for 4 or more on many cars.

Okay, I had figured this out before, but forgot which setting he would need to pick!? Let's, see, our coils fire 1 each revolution, and a 2 cylinder 4 stroke also fires once per revolution, yeah, that's it!
T.C.

[skids]

I was thinking the xs11 fires spark twice per revolotion. "Wasted spark" on the exhaust stroke?

Originally posted by TopCatGr58
Let's, see, our coils fire 1 each revolution, and a 2 cylinder 4 stroke also fires once per revolution, yeah, that's it!
T.C.

[Pat Kelly]

Once per revolution. 4 stroke engines only need 1 spark per 2 revolutions.
V=intake, ^=compression, <spark>, V=power, ^=exhaust

[TopCatGr58]

Skids, if you were counting both coils, then yes, but the tach only needed to sense the firing signal from 1 coil, so that's where I got my count!
T.C.

[skids]

Ah, gotcha. It makes sense.

Originally posted by Pat Kelly
Once per revolution. 4 stroke engines only need 1 spark per 2 revolutions.
V=intake, ^=compression, <spark>, V=power, ^=exhaust

[Artic_rider]

Going for the Dakota speedo/tack all in one, and I have been assured by three dealers that this puppy will work for the inline 4 setup. I have been using it on the HD for a season and a half, and really like it. Thanks DiverRay, you gave me a good start. guess I will stripp it and do a little trial and error...hahaha...I ove flying by the "wire" when it comes to trying new stuff....muhahaha...well okay, I thought it was funny at least

[DiverRay]

Just remember that Airbus tried the "fly by wire" and lost 3 people on the first airshow.
Double check everything before the first attempt to fire. The bike you save may be your own.
Ray