HELP! Brakes freeze when cold!

[lostsoul]

It seems that the front brake calipers are seizing when the temperature drops below 60 degrees F. If I apply emergency repair procedure one (kick them), they will release until used again at which time they seize. As soon as they warm up, however, they seem to work normally.

I have already cleaned out the reservoir and holes as well as changing the brake fluid/bleeding the brakes. At this point I am in the dark. I hope some of you wise folk will be able to point me in the right direction.

Thanks,

LS

[mitch]

pads

Are ur pads almost wore out if so they might be catching a ridge of scum or rust on the piston . You might need new pads or u might have to remove the pistons and clean them up . Go to the maintence or repair section and look at the tec tips there .................MITCH

[randy]

Have you cleaned and lubed the caliper sleeves? These will stick more often than the piston.

Remove the caliper to fork bracket mounting bolt, pull the slider sleeve out of the caliper, shoot some grease inside the recess, clean the slider tube an re-install. Make sure it slides easily in the caliper before re-mounting the caliper.

[Winterhawk]

Disassemble the calipers and remover the square rubber o-ring. Gently scrape all 4 sides using a single edge razor blade. Smash the end a a aluminum welding rod the width of the groove and bend to allow access to the groove area and scrape it clean.

A build up behind the o-ring is making the piston stick.

[prometheus578]

All good tips

Winterhawk is correct about cleaning the caliper ring and groove. I'd recommend using your thumbnail to scrape the deposits offa the square rubber O-ring. A clumsy mistake with the razor on the o-ring could send you searching for a new one.
Along with welding rod, a dental pick, or a piece of coathanger, curved, then flattened with a hammer, work nicely to "get in the groove" when getting in the groove, so to speak.

[COOL TOM]

sticking calipers

it could be 20 plus years rubber brake hose breaking down on the inside and when it gets cold the rubber does not flex and let the fluid back into the master cylinder. and when it warm up the rubber inside flexes better and lets the fluid flow again. i have changed many hoses on cars over the years because of this. most people look at the outside and see that the hose looks good so it must be good on the inside. but they forget that brake fluid is just as bad as battery acid for ruining surfaces.change your brakes, change your hoses as well. read the tips on changing your brake fluids.



82 xj1100 daily ride ahamay

[Winterhawk]

Cool Toms right,

I've heard a lot of talk lately about brake lines collapsing on the inside. Got me some steel braided for the XS1100. Going to put them on this weekend. I put some on my Seca Turbo along with a XS1100 master cylinder and wow, what a difference it makes. 1 finger braking kind of.

[Artic_rider]

Ah...a big thank you to everyone with their input on the thread. I was having the same problem with Tank, and was going to put up a post about it, and about ten minutes before I did, this one was made. Wasn't too knowledgable on tearing into the breaks...but a week later of scratching my head, doing some searches, and trial and error, I finally figured it out, replaced pads, and gave the system a much needed cleaning. Thanks to all, glad there is knowledge around here, and people to share it with.