stuck filler caps

[Artic_rider]

Well it's a stupid question, but I have the cutting torch at hand, so I better ask before I just say to hell with it. The hex screws or filler caps for my mid and final drive are not comming out. I tried to be real nice to em, but I still stripped the little buggers with the hex wrench. I am wondering if anyone has gone through this, and if ya have, what did you do. I tried the easy outs, but that didn't work, and it just stripped em out more. I am thinking of either drilling them out, and re-tapping, or heating up the surrounding areas and try to cotten rig something. Any thoughts would be welcomed on the subject though...parts are a bitch to find in Northren Canada...lol

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Arctic-Rider,

Many different techniques have been used, from grinding a slot in them enough to get a chisel tip on it and tap it around. If you have access to a welder, could tack a nut to it! Some have just drilled and tapped a threaded hole and capped it off with a bolt.
Then again, after drilling into it, you may be able to get an easy out into it a little better!

Don't forget to use some good penetrating oil/fluid like PB Blaster, and a "little" heat won't hurt, aluminum will expand faster than steel and might help to break it's hold on the plug!?

After you get them out, you can get a replacement hex head BOLT from local auto store that will fit along with a nylon washer, and then it'll be easier to remove next time!
T.C.

[Artic_rider]

Hey thanks TC, I honestly didn't even think of welding a nut on the bugger...going to give that a try and see where I get. Stripping the ol' tank down this winter and giving her a new lease on life, and that was the one thing that was buggen me about the whole thing. I will post the ongoing pictures once the snow flies and I get the girl in the basement...lol...(new house and the garage ain't done yet, so ya, this winter the bikes are comming in the back door and getting the golden treatment)

[fxrer]

It's late, my brain is foggy, but there are MANY threads on this subject. I know I posted one myself.

Do a "Search", left column, for middle plug, final drive plug, etc, and you will read about the frustrations, and solutions.

[Parr8hed]

just went through this last night with mine, but did not strip the hex bolt. I wacked them good with a hammer before starting and that seemed to really help free them up? That is my answer for everything. See my post about mid/final drive lube that is up right now on this board.

[fxrer]

Yeah Arctic, after rounding the hex, I had to whack a chisel on the side on my final plug to get it loose. Then it was boogered.

So, as TC mentioned, I bought two standard automotive oil plugs as replacements. Had to grind the flange on the one for the final drive, but they work well. TC was kind enough to post pictures.

go here to see.

http://www.xs11.com/forum/showthread...0160#post50160

[DeanR]

Luckily, the chisel hits worked for me!

[skids]

If you use a nylon washer to seal the plug, it will be much more forgiving and will make life easier the next time.

Originally posted by laxdad
Luckily, the chisel hits worked for me!

[John]

Originally posted by skids
If you use a nylon washer to seal the plug, it will be much more forgiving and will make life easier the next time.

Some thread tape on the fill/drain plugs works great too.

[COOL TOM]

caps

i used a hex wrench and a pair of 16 inch channelocks on mine, came loose just fine. what i want to know is can you weld a dipstick on the bottom of the plug or will it hit the gears inside?this is for the middle gear only.i plan on using 80/90 synthetic oil.




82 xj1100 daily ride ahamay

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Tom,

That's a great idea! I just looked at the fiche, and it looks like the gears are to the left and rear of the location of the plug! However, I would take the regular dipstick, and stick it in the hole, and then with the bike in neutral, spin the rear tire, and see if the gears hit the dipstick. Wiggle it around a bit while turning the wheel to see how much latitude in position you will have. Then set the depth of the dipstick to be at it the same depth as the OEM one, when the plug is screwed all the way in, just not SNUGGED! Show us some pictures and measurements when you're done!!
T.C.

[LoHo]

I had to grind a slot and punch 'em out with a chisel. I replaced them with automotive oil drain plugs that have an exposed 12mm hex bolt. I guess I should take a pic and post it...