Brake pads

[Robert Haller]

Are semi-metallic brake pads the same as sintered metal brake pads? Are they (or it) ok to use on our rotors?

[Bob Falter]

Robert

I’d like to know more about sintered brake pads too. I bought some to put on my HD Sportster because someone said they were great and they had different compounds for the front and back wheels. They also had the highest price of all that I looked at. So far I have only put on the back ones but they don’t seem to work as well as the OEM pads. I didn’t do any tests. I am just going by how easy/hard it is to lock up the back wheel. My XS11 has always (for 300 miles) been able to lock up the rear wheel easier that my HD (same size and type of rear tire). Now, I almost have to stand on the brake pedal to get the HD rear wheel to lock. Don’t know if I want to put the front ones on. Then again, locking up the rear wheel is not the quickest way to stop so maybe that is what they are supposed to do? Anybody else tried them or seen any test on them?

Bob

[erhatch]

break pad part numbers

would you happen to have yamaha part numbers for both sets of front pads and the rear pads? Or know where I could find the numbers on the internet?

thanks,
eric

[MartyA]

Here is the numbers on the front of the Genuine Yamaha Motor Co., Ltd, Shizouka, Japan brake pad box:

1J-W0045-00
1 SET
AX10323A 303

I put a complete set front and back on my 78E in June. Got them from the dealer. I asked if the front and back were different, as in the Clymers, they said the fronts and backs were the same, same part number, had a note about the change some years back, don't recall those details. Put them on in 10 minutes, no problems. There is a tip around here abou how to install the backs without taking the wheel off. Worked fine.

The inspection place told me this spring that the backs were a little thin, so I bought the whole set of pads. Good thing, when I took off one of the front ones it came out in pieces, pads seperate from the steel backing.

One thing, there is a thin metal (SS?) spacer behind the pads. i asked once what it was for, some guessed it was for noise prevention. I did not have one on one side of the fronts, on the first trip after replacing the pads they squealed horrifically. I patterned the one from the left on a piece of tin, cut the pattern out and installed it on the right. Now it only squeeks a little, once in a while.

[MartyA]

Here is a ditty on metllic pads from a Corvette site:
http://www.c5-corvette.com/Articles/...brake_pads.htm

Here is a little primer on pads (very basic) but it mentions the back plate (called Brake Quiet) I alluded to above, Cardogz Garage site:
http://www.cardogz.com/columns/auto/...998_09_14.html

Cyclebrakes.com sells all degrees of brake stuff. Go a little past half way down the page, click on pads:
http://www.cyclebrakes.com/

[Dragonrider]

Don't forget that Special pads are different (for the front anyway)

[xjguy]

I don't know about about sintered pads at all, but after 35 years in the auto repair industy, i have come to greatly respect OEM pads for many reasons- but mainly for consistency in quality. I am considering however, using kevlar pads when I need pads . I used them on a race car i was building and was really impressed with the consistency in stopping and quietness.

xjguy

BTW-there is usually great cycle parking at the chill cook-off at stone mountain park.

[strom]

Pads need a bit of milage, to set in, but sintered should work OK.

I had them on GPz600 and it would do a stoppie anytime anywhere with suprising ease. Dunno bout the XS, but it looks like a pad change would be in order. The pads have plenty of meat left, but when I squeeze the front brake all the way, I can still push the bike a bit forward. It sat for 6 years, maybe it'll get better after a few miles, dunno. I cleaned the master cyl and calipers, put new oil in,....

LP

[MartyA]

Re: Brake pads

Originally posted by Robert Haller
Are semi-metallic brake pads the same as sintered metal brake pads? Are they (or it) ok to use on our rotors?

I think we answered the second part of Bob's question. Yes they are OK with proper brake-in.

What about the first part? Are they the same? I am curious. From that one website, the guy says there are only 3 types - organic, semi-metallic, and metallic. Does that mean metallic and ceramic are the same? From what I read the metallic is sintered metal; sintering is what you do to get ceramic material.

[Bob Falter]

Thanks for the info. CycleBrakes.com answered the second part.

In describing the sintered pads they say:
The compound is known for LONG lasting time and having excellent brake power and modulation at any given speed. Galfer Brakes provides this compound to their top AMA National teams. They are harder on the rotor surfaces than other compounds because of the high metallic content but still many riders prefer to have this compound over any other on the market.
This is a full-metallic compound (Grade Double H). This compound is based on advanced ceramics and carbon fibers. All rotors must be cleaned before new pads are to be install, specially those rotors that were using HH metallic pads prior to installing new Galfer organic pads.

Don't know how they can call them a full-metallic compound and still have ceramics in them but they do.

They also said that you need to clean the rotor before installing sintered pads. I didn't know that when I installed my sintered pads. I may have ruined them but I think I'll try the bedding procedure, from the corvette site, to see if they improve.

[Bob Falter]

Did the bedding procedure. No brake fad, just the opposite. By the 3rd to 4th stop I started to lock up the rear wheel at the high speeds, still had to stand on it hard to just get it to slow down at the lower speeds. By the 8th stop I could easily lock up the wheel at speed and, with some effort, lock it up at low speeds. Definitely better. Cooled them down for about 15 minutes and try them at low speed. Still hard to lock up but stops a lot better than before. It will be interesting to see what they do tomorrow.

I think I may try the Kevlar pads on the XS11. I don't make long rides, and figure that I will only put one about 10,000 miles per year, so having to change them every 8-10,000 miles won't be too bad if they work as advertised (except maybe for the cost).

[sixtysix]

I use the OEM front pads. Why? Because the book tells you the front and rear are different compounds and they can not be mixed or you will die a horrible death in a firery crash. The standard EBC replacements list the same pad for front and rear, I just did not feel right using them, so I bought a front set from Yamaha, they did have a few tiny pieces of metal in them, and they do squeak some. I am very happy with these pads. My rear pads are standard EBC replacement ones and the rear locks up instantly. The EBC's were sort of black colored and the stock pads were TAN......most brake pads are black. Just buy what it is supposed to have on it and you will not be sorry.....works for me YMMV.

[JP]

Originally posted by sixtysix
I use the OEM front pads. Why? Because the book tells you the front and rear are different compounds and they can not be mixed or you will die a horrible death in a firery crash.

And your dog will have diarrhea for the rest of it's life.

Of course if you die a horrible death in a fiery crash you might not care as much about the dog. Under the circumstances, I mean.

[malber]

Is there an easy way to inspect the front brake pads on the Special? I can't seem to get a good angle to view them. I think mine may need to be replaced. Would love to do it regardless because who ever did them before didn't use brake lube and they squeal like a squashed squirel.

[mro]

Should be a plastic oval plug about 3/4 inch long back side center of caliper. Pull plug to check pads. Pads have a "wear gauge grove" in em. When pads wear to that point should be replaced.


mro