oil and sparkplugs

[dasuchbe]

I know this is an age old debate but I still want to bring it up.

I know the Clymer book recommends 20w40 oil for the temp range of my area. I looked back through the archives and saw that a few have used the Mobile 1 syn. Oil.

I have always been partial to Castrol. I always run it in all my cars. Has anyone used the Castrol Syntec? Or is Mobile just that much better. Also, for hot weather, is the 20w40 the best to use or would a 15w40 be better. I just want to know what you all have had success with.

Also with the plugs. I have ngk bp6es in it right now and was going to go back with the same. But after some reading I saw some references to heat ranges. The summers here in Arkansas are quite hot, 105-115 with heat index. Is there another plug that anyone has had better success with?

[sixtysix]

I would not use a full synthetic in my XS. I use the castol semi-synthetic, it comes in 20W-50 (for that hot weather) and a 15W-40 for 'winter' where you live. Why would I not use a full sythetic n my XS? Several reasons:

1. Chances are your bike has not been running a full synthetic oil in the past, synthetic oil tends to clean up some of the sludge around internal gaskets and allows the more uniform molecules to permeate the gasket. In other words you might get leaks.

2. Cost - my XS uses some oil and at $4.50 a quart how much do I wanna use inbetween oil changes.

3. People tend to have problems with starter clutches and regular clutches more when using a full synthetic oil.


Here the stuff I am talking about:



SAE 20W-50: meets the toughest industry standards for volatility protection and provides a higher level of thermal stability and provides an added level of synthetic protection versus conventional oils.

Castrol Syntec Blend Truck, SAE 15W-40: Meets the toughest industry standards for volatility protection. It delivers maximum viscosity protection, provides a higher level of thermal stability, reduces harmful deposits and provides superior wear protection. Carries the spec for API CH-4.

[sixtysix]

OK, I guess I will answer both of these. Come on guys, pitch in some answers!

I had never heard of changing heat ranges on the spark plugs for diffent seasons until I heard that Triumph recommended it on my Trophy. DPR8-9... winter/DPR9-9... summer. this is a liquid cooled bike however.

GO to the NGK site and read:

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...htips.asp#heat

http://www.ngksparkplugs.com/techinf...overviewp2.asp

I have not heard of anybody who does this on an XS however, and I have only run the stock plug both winter and summer.

[Mike Hart]

When Johnny Yukon first got his bike, it ran really rough. New spark plugs were in it - BPR7ES. Put in BP6ES, it improved considerably. Was it due to the additional resistance, or the heat range? Dunno.

[MartyA]

FWIW I have been running N8Y Champions for 7 years on my 78E. I have run all day at 40 F, 2 day trips of 85-90 degrees F, and everything in-between, and with no apparent ill effects. When I do the throttle chop check, the plugs are always a light tan. I don't see the need for changing heat ranges. But, if you live in an area where the temp is always high, perhaps a heat range change is appropriate.

[Robert Haller]

Originally posted by MartyA
FWIWWhen I do the throttle chop check, the plugs are always a light tan.

What is your procedure for doing a throttle chop check? I've never done it but want to.

[MartyA]

There is a tip somewhere about this.

Run for a while, get the bike warmed up. I cruise the nearby highway - 2 lane 55 MPH is a highway in my area. For several minutes I run at 55-60, then as I get close to my street I hit the STOP switch, grab the clutch, then coast to my house. When the engine cools, pull the plugs. The tip that I read somewhere as I recall says to just stop on the side of the road, but the engine is too hot for me, and the side of the road is woods here...

The idea is to get the engine running at "highway" speeds. In town, I suppose you could let the revs run a little high for a while at lower speed, then hit the stop switch.

Actually my #3 plug is always just slightly darker, so I usually switch #3 and #4. Nothing to get alarmed about, but then I am a picky bast*rd. I change my oil every 1500 miles, too.

[Robert Haller]

Can you use your existing plugs or is it better to start off with a new, virgin set?

[MartyA]

I can't think why not. The idea is to see how balanced your carbs / cylinders are running. I would start with the old ones, since this test is fairly easy. But I can't think why it would matter, old or new.
List? Comments?

[dasuchbe]

Thanks guys

YOU GUYS ARE GREAT!!! I really appreciate the info, especially about the plugs!! Learned something new!!

Unfortunately, I have not been able to do anything since my original post. RAIN!! But I have parts ready and it is supposed to be clear this weekend. I will keep you updated.

[Bob Falter]

Gary,

What did you hear about clutch failures or problems? I just put Mobil 1 (15W-50) in my XS11. I read all of the info on oil here and at several other links, including some tests. It sounded like the way to go. Wal-Mart had it for $3.50/quart so I thought I would try it. Just wondering if I made a mistake.

Thanks,
Bob

[Mike Hart]

Mobil 1 is indeed a great synthetic oil. Aren't they making a bike specific one now too?

Some folks get clutch slip, some don't. Of the ones that do, some want to keep using Mobil 1 and get Barnett clutch springs.

[sixtysix]

I use Mobil 1 in my truck and in my newer Triumph as recommended by Triumph (it is bike specific Mobil 1 Racing 4T, but still Mobil 1 synthetic). Mobil 1 is indeed great oil, but it can cause clutches to slip especially on well worn machines, also it can cause the starter engagement 'clutch' to slip causing the engine to just spin when cold. Also it can cause leaks, my buddues GS850 was running mobil 1 and it leaked from several gaskets, I replaced the valve cover gasket one year and it fixed that leak, the next year I switched him to the oil I showed above and within a month or so all the oil seepage stopped on the other gaskets.

If it is not causing you any problems and makes you feel good running it then it certainly was not a mistake. Just watch for the the problems above and keep riding!!
Gary

Originally posted by Bob Falter
Gary,

What did you hear about clutch failures or problems? I just put Mobil 1 (15W-50) in my XS11. I read all of the info on oil here and at several other links, including some tests. It sounded like the way to go. Wal-Mart had it for $3.50/quart so I thought I would try it. Just wondering if I made a mistake.

Thanks,
Bob

[rockyr74]

Everybody says they just "love" the specific brand and weight of oil they are currently using, but odds are that with as often bike lovers change their oil, even olive oil would work fine.

Anybody have an oil horror story? Something that is an oil related problem for sure?

- me, I believe in the "car oil is bad" myth perpetuated by the Bel-Ray people and use only oil that says motorcycle on the label.

[procamper]

mobile synthetic motorcycle oil

today my quest was to find 20-40 oil. after several differnt autoparts stores with no success, I found some of the new oil from mobil that is specifically formulated for motorcycles. I was about to get my four quarts(three for the bike, one for a spare) when i saw the price-$8.00 US after that i decided that for 20 years, my bike got only non-synthetic oil, and another month or two with the same wouldnt hurt

mebbe after i know it wont leak(just put new clutch in) I'll spring for some more expensive oil, but untill then, im saving money to get some new tires!