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  • Clutch woes

    Hey guys, I have a couple of quick questions. Recently my clutch has started slipping under heavy acceleration; particularly in second and third gears. How difficult is it to replace the clutch? Would replacing just the clutch plates be a viable remedy? If so, how difficult a job is that? I have found the clutch plates on PartsnMores website, I assume I should replace the springs as well. Will I need any specialized tools? Unfortunately, my stock of tools is pretty slim. Any info would be greatly appreciated.

    P.S. I have done a search through the forum and it returns so many results that its hard to pick through the ones that specifially address clutch issues.

  • #2
    Read the tech tip (left column) about shimming clutch springs with washers. If your fiber discs are in spec, that could retsore your clutch, without costing lots of $
    Rick
    '80 SG
    '88 FXR
    '66 Spitfire MK II

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    • #3
      Also, try the search tool to look for a few posts about synthetic oils and clutch slippage. Any chance you recently decided to treat the old girl to some fresh, special oil?
      Ken Talbot

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      • #4
        Hey Rob,

        First, if you decide to put in new plates from PNM, don't order from the Clutch Parts section!! Go to the Yamaha, XS1100, Engine section, and then add them to your cart there, they are STILL HALF price, only $4.00 each vs. the $8.00 they list in the main parts section, and they haven't figured it out!! I ordered some a few months ago, got the whole set of 8 for $32.00!!

        Secondly, you'll need a low range torque wrench, that can measure down to 5 ft/lbs accurately. The clutch pressure plate spring bolts are only 7ft/lbs! Either an inch/lb, or the lower scale wrench that only goes to about 75lb max, vs. the 140 of a standard wrench.

        The friction plates don't have to loose much to be out of spec. Do you have a micrometer/caliper to check them with? If not, then best just to get some new friction plates. and the heavy duty springs! You can clean up the metal plates easily with some FINE emory cloth to get any varnish off of them. IF you'll look at the Tranny tech tips(both beginning and near the end), you'll see pictures of the clutch assembly and the things you need to watch out for! You'll need a Standard torque wrench and large socket also, to remove the 75ft/lb torqued main clutch nut to get the main clutch boss out to be able to have access to the plates!

        That's all I can think of as to special equipment! T.C.
        T. C. Gresham
        81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
        79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
        History shows again and again,
        How nature points out the folly of men!

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        • #5
          OK, Great! I go to PartsNMore to order the friction plates and the clutch springs. Figure I'll just go ahead and replace both - slipping is getting worse. Find the part, click on "Add To Cart", lo and behold I get a message saying they are out of stock of both parts. Anyone know of any where else to order these parts?

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          • #6
            Another question for you guys that have worked on your clutches. Do I need a gasket for the cover I'll be removing to get to the clutch? I've read several tips about shimming the springs and replacing the disks, but none have said anything about the gasket. I also have been unsuccesful at locating a gasket at partsnmore or elsewhere. I did find the friction plates at j.c. whitney along with the springs, but no gasket.

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            • #7
              Do I need a gasket for the cover I'll be removing to get to the clutch?
              Yes, you need a gasket, or perhaps a "form-a-gasket" compound such as Yama-bond or something similar. Personally, I would opt for the paper gasket. The clutch mechanism is in the housing and clearance might be critical at this point. If you can't find one, you can always make your own. Most auto supply stores will have rolls of gasket material. Just lay it flat, lightly coat the mating surface with oil and place the housing on the gasket paper. The oil will mark the surface on the paper.. start cutting with your utility knife.
              Brian
              1978E Midlife Crisis - A work in progress
              1984 Kawasaki 550 Ltd - Gone, but not forgotten

              A married man should forget his mistakes. There's no use in two people
              remembering the same thing!

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              • #8
                The gasket must be intact to seal properly, but if you’re lucky, and very careful it’s possible to separate the cover and preserve the existing gasket.

                One you’ve loosened the screws, tap the cover with a rubber hammer to break it free. Then, at a point midway between two bolt holes, wedge a sharp edged putty knife or the like between the gasket and cover. Work the gasket free, then slowly and very carefully work the knife around the cover edge. Be patient and real careful around the bolt holes because that’s where it’s likely to be stuck most. IF no gasket cement was used on the install, you might be able to free the entire gasket without tearing it, and reuse it when you put the cover back on.

                Good luck.
                Rick
                '80 SG
                '88 FXR
                '66 Spitfire MK II

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                • #9
                  Dam, I'm lucky...

                  After reading this thread about how difficult it is to get parts for your clutch I feel really lucky. I have a Yamaha dealer close that stocks everything I have needed so far including clutch discs and gaskets for side covers, cam cover, and transmission cover. The real kicker is that I also paid $32.00 for a complete set of clutch discs.
                  You can't stay young forever, but you can be immature for the rest of your life...

                  '78E "Pathfinder" Show bike...
                  Lovingly restored by Dave Delzell
                  Drilled airbox
                  Tkat fork brace
                  Hardly mufflers
                  late model carbs
                  Newer style fuses
                  Oil pressure guage
                  Custom security system
                  Stainless braid brake lines

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                  • #10
                    Normally, you'd expect to pay $32 for a set of friction plates from PartsNMore, but they were out of stock. I ordered a set from OldBikeBarn for $63.80, which is still a bargain compared to some other places. I found them for as high as $85 a set as I searched yesterday. Managed to find 3 - 4 places that seem to have most of the parts we need on a regular basis. Got a set of clutch springs and a gasket from BikeBandit.

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                    • #11
                      replace the springs

                      Might as well replace them while you're in there. Friction plates wear with use, but even with a low mileage bike... those springs have been sitting in there under tension for over 25 years; they might be a little tired.
                      "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

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                      • #12
                        Yea, I was gonna just replace the springs, but then decided while I was in there to replace the plates. That way, if the springs don't resolve the issue, I don't have to worry about opening the case again to replace the disks. Just get it all done at one time.

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