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Front Rotor Advice

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  • Front Rotor Advice

    How big a deal is it to remove/replace the front rotors on a XJ? Been thinking about having Merle drill and deglaze them but don't want to start something that's a pain to finish.

    Thanks

    Jack
    82 XJ100J Gone
    83 XJ750 Seca

  • #2
    Easy on and off but to turn them is a B#$%h. Chech out mikesxs.com he has some that will fit the XS should work on an XJ, but what do I know. Before you check out Mikes I will warn you they are very pricey.
    There's always a way, figure it out.
    78XS11E

    Comment


    • #3
      Hey JackSF,

      Aside from recommending NOT to try to get them "turned", deglazing should be okay, there are 3 sets of special lock washers for each side, brittle metal, designed to fold up against the hex head of the mounting bolts, will fit a pair of bolts. They are also rather pricey, even from bike bandit. Top number is Yamaha OEM, bottom is BB #:
      3H5-25834-00-00 WASHER, LOCK
      WASHER,LOCK 34350-001 $4.12
      I don't know if a standard split compression lock washer would work under the bolt since the rotors are fairly hard steel vs. cast iron for cars? But I've also seen a set of rotors mounted with allen head bolts with NO lock washers!? But they are otherwise bolton/off process!
      T.C.
      T. C. Gresham
      81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
      79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
      History shows again and again,
      How nature points out the folly of men!

      Comment


      • #4
        I have been using regular type lock washers on my front rotors for years, and they have'nt loosened up at all. In fact, my rotors and wheels are from an XJ.

        Comment


        • #5
          Put your rotors in a lath. Use a belt sander while the lathe is running. Finish them off Emery cloth and a piston pin. XS's have very thick rotors and in most cases you can sand them down and the look superb. Don't use a cutting tool on them.
          "We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey." "

          Comment


          • #6
            Originally posted by TopCatGr58
            Hey JackSF,

            Aside from recommending NOT to try to get them "turned", deglazing should be okay, there are 3 sets of special lock washers for each side, brittle metal, designed to fold up against the hex head of the mounting bolts, will fit a pair of bolts. They are also rather pricey, even from bike bandit. Top number is Yamaha OEM, bottom is BB #:


            I don't know if a standard split compression lock washer would work under the bolt since the rotors are fairly hard steel vs. cast iron for cars? But I've also seen a set of rotors mounted with allen head bolts with NO lock washers!? But they are otherwise bolton/off process!
            T.C.
            Great, that is what I was wondering. The same guy that makes the YIC tool drills patterns on the rotors and deglazes tham also. My personal feeling is the XJ's brakes are not its strongest point. I know I need ss brake lines. Thought about using a 2 line system rather than a 3 but decided to leave that part alone. My right front, no matter what I do has always been soft, even when the bike was fairly new. But it does work, just have to really squeeze it.
            82 XJ100J Gone
            83 XJ750 Seca

            Comment


            • #7
              Here's a pic of the drilled rotors


              http://plan9.dnsalias.org:88/xj/phot...s/DSC03152.JPG
              82 XJ100J Gone
              83 XJ750 Seca

              Comment


              • #8
                Stainless rotors can be turned on a lathe, but it takes a certain grind on the lathe bit and spray mist coolant. The chip comes off in long sharp spiral. Pretty hard to find some one that can do it in this era of CNC.

                Steve
                80 XS1100G Standard - YammerHammer
                73 Yamaha DT3 - DirtyHairy
                62 Norton Atlas - AgileFragile (Dunstalled) waiting reassembly
                Norton Electra - future restore
                CZ 400 MX'er
                68 Ducati Scrambler
                RC Planes and Helis

                Comment


                • #9
                  Hey, Jack, here's another pattern for drilling rotors:

                  Read all about it at this link
                  Ken Talbot

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    That pic sorta tells me its not worth the time and trouble. Too fancy for my ol gir.

                    Thanks

                    Jack
                    82 XJ100J Gone
                    83 XJ750 Seca

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      If I can do it for "the $60 Gem" (the crappiest looking bike at Big Is Deuce) then you can too. My modification to Ken's pattern (that I used) was each hole was one size smaller from inside out. The holes nearest the hub were largest, then the next 'ring' of holes were smaller, then smaller, etc.
                      When I got a set of tubeless wheels the rear had a slotted rotor. I swapped the front rotors to match the direction of the rear. That's why I stand by my claim that the direction of the holes/slots is cometic (while stopped). I've noticed no difference in the front brakes after swapping the rotors side to side (last year).
                      Pat Kelly
                      <p-lkelly@sbcglobal.net>

                      1978 XS1100E (The Force)
                      1980 XS1100LG (The Dark Side)
                      2007 Dodge Ram 2500 quad-cab long-bed (Wifes ride)
                      1999 Suburban (The Ship)
                      1994 Dodge Spirit (Son #1)
                      1968 F100 (Valentine)

                      "No one is totally useless. They can always be used as a bad example"

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        Hey Jack,
                        If your getting pulsing brakes, first try and rough up the pads with sand paper. I've had it happen that they get too smooth and do the slip-n-grab. It happens on lots of bikes.
                        1980sg-Stocker-- Sold
                        1980sg- Cruise Missile- Sold to RODS454
                        1990 ATK 604- Ditch Digger
                        2005 BMW K1200S- Killer Bee
                        2005 Suzuki GSX-R 1000- trackbike

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          Nope, no pulsing, no grinding, no nothing. Just slick as a baby's butt. Right now my best guess is that the hose is totally shot (original still on) and there is just not enough pressure to really clamp the pads. I want to get a complete set of ss but I want to buypass the valve in front, go directly from the rear master to the left front. I just hate to pull the whole brake system apart to measure.

                          I can still ride her, foot brake works fine and the front will eventually stop her just wouldn't do me any good in a panic stop, not that it was ever that good anyway. Too much mass for a single rotor IMHO, they were designed to use both brakes at the same time.

                          Jack
                          82 XJ100J Gone
                          83 XJ750 Seca

                          Comment


                          • #14
                            Hey Jack,

                            THere isn't any "VALVE" in the front of the bike, that's just a joint! The Proporioning valve is actually located next to the rear master cylinder, then the two lines run to the rear MC and front one. My question is WHY do you want to bypass the Prop. Valve, but keep the front linked to the rear brake lever? IIRC, it sends more pressure to the front than the rear during actuation, and bypassing it would actually lessen the front pressure, and increase the rear making it more likely to lock up the rear?

                            If you are wanting more braking power for the front, then link the 2 front calipers together, and separate the rear to itself!
                            T.C.
                            T. C. Gresham
                            81SH "Godzilla" . . .1179cc super-rat.
                            79SF "The Teacher" . . .basket case!
                            History shows again and again,
                            How nature points out the folly of men!

                            Comment


                            • #15
                              Originally posted by TopCatGr58
                              Hey Jack,

                              THere isn't any "VALVE" in the front of the bike, that's just a joint! The Proporioning valve is actually located next to the rear master cylinder, then the two lines run to the rear MC and front one. My question is WHY do you want to bypass the Prop. Valve, but keep the front linked to the rear brake lever? IIRC, it sends more pressure to the front than the rear during actuation, and bypassing it would actually lessen the front pressure, and increase the rear making it more likely to lock up the rear?

                              If you are wanting more braking power for the front, then link the 2 front calipers together, and separate the rear to itself!
                              T.C.
                              Got it, and what you say makes sense. I imagine the way the brakes were designed were to provide braking to the left front proportional to the amount of braking applied to the rear to avoid locking up the rear. Additional stopping is provided by the right front which, I guess, wasn't designed to be used as a solitary braking system.

                              I had thought about doing the dual front but the more I thought about it the less I liked the idea. Much of it being the way I ride. I am a cruiser not a sport type, Lincoln Town Car vs. Corvette. I am still trying to get the feel of the new fork springs and bearings, really feels light compared to the old setup. Dual front braking would really dive the front making the rear less stable with all the weight being moved forward and possibly causing the rear to swing around easier.

                              Understand, I have no way to prove this, just things I think about when not tinkering.

                              Jack
                              82 XJ100J Gone
                              83 XJ750 Seca

                              Comment

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