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Drain plug & oil pans?

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  • Drain plug & oil pans?

    After repairing my clutch I was ready to fill the engine with oil and try her out. Put in the drain plug and, with the torque wrench set to 20 ft/lbs, I ran the drain plug down until the wrench clicked. Something just didn't feel right so instead of set the wrench to 31 ft/lbs I set it to 25 ft/lbs. The plug turned over ½ turn and the wrench didn't click. I knew something was wrong. Pull the plug and found that a bunch of aluminum threads came out with it.

    Pulled the oil pan (strainer cover per Yamaha) and found that Yamaha had designed the oil pan to take a 22mm long drain plug. My drain plug was only 15 mm long and thus only engaged part of the treads. My bike has had two PO's so they may have changed the plug for some reason but if everyone's plug is the size of mine I guessing someone at Yamaha changed the plug length to the 15mm length for some cost savings reason. Maybe they had extras from some other model that used a M14-1.5 X 15mm and figured that the shorter length wouldn't make any difference?

    If I would have know this ahead of time I would have replaced the original drain plug with an M14-1.5 X 22 bolt. The 15mm only uses about ½ the threads that are available and the oil pan designed went to a lot of work to add more thread. Even longer, up to 50mm, will work. Note, the longer one also has the advantage of taking longer to fall out if it does become loose. Chances are one will see the oil leak long before the plug falls completely out. The bolt has a bigger head than the drain plug but the seal (2 aluminum washers) fit and it works great.

    I ended up fixing my oil pan and it is better than new if the JB Weld holds the nut I installed in place. It will be a test every time I change the oil. There is a used one on ebay for 57$ (plus $5 handling and shipping costs). Sounds high to me but I'm cheap. I'm going to check with the local dealer on the price of a new one (if available). If I get one the repair will last forever, if I don't it will break next oil change.
    #1 ’79 XS11 Special
    #2 ’79 XS11 Special
    '97 V-Max
    '01 Dyna T-Sport

  • #2
    XSEleven.com
    "We are often so caught up in our destination that we forget to appreciate the journey." "

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    • #3
      I destroyed the threads of wifes Kwack some years back, i used a tap, one size larger and put in a bigger bolt. Don't remember for sure but i think the stock one was M14x1.5 and i used a M16x1 tap, and a bolt that fitted that of course.... worked like charm, and still does...

      H./

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      • #4
        I tapped mine out larger as well. Tried buying another pan off of ebay, but it wasn't in any better shape.
        1980sg-Stocker-- Sold
        1980sg- Cruise Missile- Sold to RODS454
        1990 ATK 604- Ditch Digger
        2005 BMW K1200S- Killer Bee
        2005 Suzuki GSX-R 1000- trackbike

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        • #5
          .. if there are a lot more good threads further in the hole then go to the hardware store and get a longer bolt and some pipe sealent/dope and use them for now and ride your bike
          .. i'm not sure but 22ftp sounds like alot for an aluminum threaded hole
          .. take your time and keep an eye out for a good deal on another oil pan, some one on this site might have one to sell you

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          • #6
            22 ft. lbs. does sound like alot for aluminum, but the manual on the XJ says use 31 ft. lb.

            Louis
            "There is no mechanical problem so difficult that it cannot be overcome by
            brute strength and ignorance" And possibly some Mouse Milk!
            '82 XJ1100J
            LED Dir and running lights
            LED Tail/Brake lights (4) one flashing
            Modulated H/L
            PIAA Driving lights
            YICS Eliminated
            750 FD

            Yamaha Factory X-1 Fairing and Luggage

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            • #7
              Got mine for bout 7$ US on ebay. Didnt replace it yet. Winter project.

              LP
              If it doesn't have an engine, it's not a sport, it's only a game.
              (stole that one from I-dont-know-who)

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              • #8
                31 ft-lbs sounded like a lot to me too and it is it your drain plugs is only 15mm long. You will only have about 6 threads holding the left side of your plug. There are treads all the way out to 22mm on the right side of the plug but on the left side there is a section that is open to let oil drain from the bottom of the pan. After the gap there are more threads but my 15mm long drain plug didn’t reach those threads. If you are going to tighten it down to 31 ft-lbs you had better have a 22mm (or longer) drain plug.

                I think I’m getting a used oil pan for $20 buck which will be cheap insurance.
                #1 ’79 XS11 Special
                #2 ’79 XS11 Special
                '97 V-Max
                '01 Dyna T-Sport

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                • #9
                  My drain plug is 15mm as well. Maybe I'll get a longer one...
                  Tim Ripley - Gaithersburg, MD
                  1981 XS1100 Special "Spoiled Rotten" Just sold - currently bikeless!!
                  23mm float height
                  120 main jets
                  42.5 pilot jets
                  drilled stock airbox with K&N
                  Jardine 4 to 1 Exhaust
                  spade fusebox
                  1st and 2nd gear fix

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                  • #10
                    I wrecked #1, the bike I had repaired the pan using the JB Weld. It did hold up through 3 oil changes (NOTE: Found out that JB Weld doesn’t work submerged in gas). Got #2 early in 2007. One of the first things I did was change the oil and drain plug.

                    Bob
                    #1 ’79 XS11 Special
                    #2 ’79 XS11 Special
                    '97 V-Max
                    '01 Dyna T-Sport

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                    • #11
                      I have at least three stock xs1100 oil pans with good stock drain plugs,you need your old oil pan allen head bolts and gasket, $25.00 shipped anywhere in the USA, PM if interested, thanx andreas

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                      • #12
                        I stripped one as well. I went to the "helper" section of Pep Boys and got one of the slotted (on the end only) longer drain plugs. They clean up what is left of the old threads and they are a bit longer than stock. They come with nylon washers and this will help prevent stripping it again. I use nylon washers also on the final drive fill plug. Easy-on, easy off.

                        Originally posted by Bob Falter
                        I wrecked #1, the bike I had repaired the pan using the JB Weld. It did hold up through 3 oil changes (NOTE: Found out that JB Weld doesn’t work submerged in gas). Got #2 early in 2007. One of the first things I did was change the oil and drain plug.

                        Bob
                        Skids (Sid Hansen)

                        Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

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