Valve Adjustment Time!

[LoHo]

Hey kids, I'm finally doing a valve adjustment on Effing Bee. I have the Pro Motion tool to hold the lifter down, but it doesn't contact the lifter. When I rotate the cam to release the shim, the whole thing pops back up.

Can I modify the tool, perhaps by grinding the attachment point down a little, to make contact? Does anyone have a tool that works for certain?

Also, is there a ready source for the gasket for the valve cover?

TIA ~LoHo~

[randy]

LoHo,

Parts n more has the gasket. The Motion Pro tool is a ****ing disgrace. Do a search here for "motion pro" to learn how to modify it so it works like it should.

[xssiveone]

LoHo, here is a page I put together a few years back on valve adjustment which includes the mods I did to get the dreaded Motion Pro tool working.

Making a gasket is not difficult if you can't find a ready-made one. Gasket paper is available at auto parts outlets. Bring a piece of the old one to get the correct thickness.

[LoHo]

Thanks, gents...I'm going to do the Talbot Grind to see if I can get the MP tool to work. If not, I'll just pop the cams, as that's what I have to do to my ZX750 as SOP...

[LoHo]

Hey! The "Talbot Grind" worked! Thanks Ken! If you and your lovely wife show up at the Tahoe Rally I'll spot you a Newcastle or two...

[Ken Talbot]

Actually, LoHo, Brian gets the credit for the motion pro grind. I was one of the lucky ones who bought a motion pro tool and had it work perfectly with no modifications. Sure hate to pass on a Newcastle.....

[xssiveone]

That's OK Ken, you can have mine as I'll not likely make the Tahoe rally.

[LoHo]

Well, Brian, you've got one coming if we ever cross paths. Indiana is too far for me and Tahoe for you, so maybe next time.

Also, I have checked all of the shims and ordered the four new ones I need. Can anyone tell me if I'll damage the engine by rotating the cams with no shims in place? It would be easier to replace some with others left out; I don't think I'd hurt anything with just a slow rotation of the cam across the face of the lifter. Am I correct in that assumption?

Thanks again! ~LoHo~

[skids]

I have done it, but you risk etching the cam lobes. It wont hurt the valves because they will be further from the piston crowns.

Originally posted by LoHo
Well, Brian, you've got one coming if we ever cross paths. Indiana is too far for me and Tahoe for you, so maybe next time.

Also, I have checked all of the shims and ordered the four new ones I need. Can anyone tell me if I'll damage the engine by rotating the cams with no shims in place? It would be easier to replace some with others left out; I don't think I'd hurt anything with just a slow rotation of the cam across the face of the lifter. Am I correct in that assumption?

Thanks again! ~LoHo~

[LoHo]

Thanks, Skids...are you headed for Tahoe in September?

[Pat Kelly]

Just now checking my valve adjustment on my E.
1st thing I found is I need a set of metric specific feeler gauges. Mine is a decent inch set with the mm equivilant but too much range for me to be happy with.
Here's what I found:

Cyl #1, Int .127mm goes but .152mm dosen't (looks too tight)
Exh .203 goes .229 no (ok?)

#2 Int .152 yes, .178 no (ok?)
Exh .203 yes, .229 no (ok?)

#3 Int same as cyl #2
Exh .229 yes, .254 no (too loose?)

#4 Int same as #1 (too tight?)
Exh same as #1 & 2

Might head to get some metric feelers tomorrow.
Ant comment or suggestions?

[trbig]

I can only speak for the specs on my motor, but my XJ book calls for a gap on the intakes of .11-.15mm, and the exhaust is .21-.25mm.
It looks like you're pretty close, but yeah, I had to get a good set of metric gages too. I was gonna post a pic of the graph showing what shims to use if you were out... but the copyright thing in the front of the book stopped me. If you find yourself over or under, you could put in here what your measurment was and the number of the thickness of your shim, and someone on here could tell you what number you need.

Tod

[DiverRay]

Pat,
Intake on 1&4 is a little too tight. I would change them out, probably just one size up. If you have the proper shims, you can go up two sizes if needed. Let me know if you need one, as I'm only one day away via USPS.
Ray

[prometheus578]

a little too tight. I would change them out, probably just one size up

Ray, I'm sure you meant to type one size DOWN. If there's too little clearance, one puts in a thinner shim to give more. (from a 2.65... you'd put in a 2.60) But, I know you know this already.

[skids]

The XJ is probably like the later model XS11's. The 78's have bigger shim gaps.

Originally posted by trbig
I can only speak for the specs on my motor, but my XJ book calls for a gap on the intakes of .11-.15mm, and the exhaust is .21-.25mm.
It looks like you're pretty close, but yeah, I had to get a good set of metric gages too. I was gonna post a pic of the graph showing what shims to use if you were out... but the copyright thing in the front of the book stopped me. If you find yourself over or under, you could put in here what your measurment was and the number of the thickness of your shim, and someone on here could tell you what number you need.

Tod