Wiring: Tach/Headlight/No Start

[skids]

They are more like 3,000 ohm (3 kohm) to 8,000 ohm (8kohm) . No big deal. Find some that fit well with lengths and angles.

Originally posted by corey
Okay, so the spark plug caps definitely add more resistance. The ohm reading with the caps off were 11.5k ohms and 11.8k ohms. So this means my caps are bad, correct? They shouldn't be resisting this much, I'm sure. I just need to look for the 5 ohm caps, right? I know MikesXS has them, but I'm going to look locally first, as I have a strong desire to ride!!!

Also, I overrode the ballast resistor (I think that is what it is called). You said that's necessary, right TC?

[TopCatGr58]

Hey Corey,

Since what you have are not necessarily OEM coils, we don't know for sure if they are XS11 coils, or where they came from, or go to. SO...the 11.x kohms may or may not be good for them, however, if that set IS XS11 coils, then they may be bad since they are reading much lower than the 13.5k to 16.5k range!

I've checked local auto shops, (but not NAPA), and they didn't carry spare plug caps. I know you can get them from Dennis Kirk, see the tech tips for descriptions and diagrams!
T.C.

[corey]

I'll look into the coils. Won't the resistance by in that range when I replace the spark plug caps? 11.something is the reading I got with the caps off.

I know I'm all over the place here, but I'm trying to get all my electical bugs worked out. So I resistance tested the rectifier/regulator this evening. I did as the bible commanded and checked the resistance between all the different combos that the book said. None of these connections varied more than ten units, so Clymer says they are okay. Then I continued with the instructions, and reversed the leads on the ohm gauge. This time though, didn't get ANY reading for ANY combination. Does this mean a bad rectifier/regulator? Also, its worthy to note that the voltage read well with the motor off, butI can't test the running voltage till I get my new caps, or fix them as randy says to do. The rectifier/reg. confuses me, so I'm not sure what to do.

BTW: sorry for the rapid fire questions. It's really helping me out though!!

[TopCatGr58]

Corey,

The "Bible" shows testing the coils with the caps on, but the values are REALLY with the caps off, so the 11kohms is LOW, I just tested a coil from my basket case, got over 15kohm without the caps. With the caps, around 25k.

As for the Reg/Rect, I've heard that testing with an electronic gauge can cause problems with accurate readings, as well as not provide readings at all!?
T.C.

[corey]

Ah ha... lousy technology. Newers not always better, no?

I got my bike running anyway. I used some temporary plug caps off some small Honda motors at work. I took out their resistors, however. I will order the right ones soon.

Now I'll just hunt down that finicky headlight/tach problem! Thanks guys!

[Geezer]

Originally posted by TopCatGr58
As for the Reg/Rect, I've heard that testing with an electronic gauge can cause problems with accurate readings, as well as not provide readings at all!?
T.C.

If your digital meter doesn't have a diode test function to use on the rectifier part of the unit, you can use a low volt scale and toss a “D”-cell flashlight battery into the circuit when testing the individual diodes. The point is that power should flow one way only and not the other. Forget the readings, they're pretty much useless.

I used to buy cheap flashlights and break out the switch and add in a pair of leads with alligator clips so when they were connected the light would go on. This was great for testing rectifiers and setting points on older machines.

Geezer

[corey]

Does it matter where the D cell battery goes in the circuit??