Getting closer.....

[JWSanders]

Well, it's been a few weeks since I posted, so I figured I'd write up an update about the reviving of my '80 SG.

The bike sat outside for over 7 years, and was a rusted heap when I got it. Thankfully Ebay has provided well. After a TON of rust removal, some repainting, and a lot of restorative-type work, I've finally gotten it ready to attempt to start. Alas it will not. It cranks, but will not start. I get no spark at the plugs.

I had cleaned out the fuse panel earlier (was a MESS), and cleaned all the terminals, none of which were making a connection. Got lights and starter functions after that.

After poking around on the site, it seems the first place to look is the tilt switch. This site has been a wealth of information during this process....I can't imagine how I could've gotten this far without it!

There are so many things that arent covered in the (Clymer)manual. Like a troubleshooting guide that actually is worth a crap. Or simple stuff like what direction of the petcock valves is supposed to be (handle over the function!). Amazing...

I also learned something else...don't lay a very shiney and near perfect front fender on the wheel then absent mindedly push the bike forward, rolling over it. It will ruin it completely.


The 2 and a half days I spent rebuilding the carbs was not long enough it appears, as the #1 carb was pouring gas out of the boot to the airbox. I think I've got a stuck float. At least I replaced all the screws on the carbs with SS allen heads. Getting them apart originally was a total pain. The #1 carb is actually a #3 carb with the top tube plugged, and a standard butterfly plate instead of the slotted one. It appeared correct otherwise? I broke one of the float pin pegs on one of the #1 carbs I had, and broke the corner off of the diaphragm bowl on the other. Much to my dismay. Gummed up carbs suck

Should I assume gas got in the intake as well trying to crank it, ruining 3.75 qts of fresh oil? That would really stink.

[rover]

Put a CLEAN wooden stick in the oil fill hole and leave it for about 10 seconds, then pull it out and try to light it. If it burns, CHANGE YOUR OIL AGAIN

[JWSanders]

Damn, what a great idea! I'll try that tomorrow.

Thanks!!

Sadly, the tilt switch isn't my problem either. Going to try a few other things then, too.

[Parr8hed]

I have never hear that, great idea.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey JW,

What you said about your carbs has me wondering
You have an 80SG, so IF you have the OEM carbs, then ALL of the upper "tubes" holes should be plugged, cause Yamaha incorporated the vent into the body of the carbs thru an extra port on the inlet bell. So...I'm puzzled why you commented about that #3 to #1 carb's upper tube being plugged, makes me think that your others are not plugged, which makes me think that you have non OEM carbs, 78-79 series that have the upper bowl vent tubes that are normally OPEN, mixed in with an 80-81 series carb.

Secondly, the only carb that has the slot is supposed to be the #2 carb, cause that's the one with the vacuum advance port!

As for gas getting into the crank during cranking it, no. And even though the #1 leaked, unless the crank was rotated to a position of where the #1 intake valve was opened, then the fuel wouldn't have gotten into the cylinders anyways. The above mentioned test is a good, quick easy way to check for fuel!

If you'll check Randy's web pages, you'll find very good diagnostic tests for the TCI, and the coils, both ignition and pickup.
T.C.

[JWSanders]

Oops, I misstated the numbers. Had it backwards. It's the #4 that's leaking and the #2 is indeed the one with the slotted plate. I had to reuse a #2 carb in the #4 position and cap off the vacuum advance line on it. It took 2 sets of carbs (one I got from Ebay) to make one good one, especially after my ham-handed butchering of a couple of them in the process.

Learned a lot about them though, especially what NOT to do...heh. I'm not afraid to take them out again this time

Luckily, It dosent appear that any gas got in there. No flame on the stick. The oil hasn't circulated very well though. After I let the new oil cycle thru it a bit I'll check it again. Better safe than sorry.

Here's a question I just thought of though...Would it be ok to drill out the hole on the floats to make it a tad larger for the pins? they were very tight, even after a deep cleaning. I wasn't sure I should, so I didnt. That one in particular was the tightest. Not really suprised it got stuck.

Working on this bike has been a big thrill, overall. It's the first street bike I've ever had, and the first bike I've owned as an adult (I'm 35). Put off getting a motorcycle way too long. I've repaired and replaced so much on it so far that I've gotten really familiar with it all. Getting the title this weekend, and if all goes well, I hope to have it on the road next week sometime.

Finally!!!!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey JW,

I wouldn't drill the mounting holes of the brackets of the floats, but take some emory cloth, and try polishing/sanding the pin a bit to allow the float to pivot on it much easier. It should easily lift and drop on the pin, and if not, then it's like you said, the reason why it stuck and caused the overflowing!

Are you sure the pin didn't get bent? That,too, will cause it to bind and not pivot properly! Hang in there, you're close, and soon it'll all be done, and you'll be flying!
T.C.

[JWSanders]

Ah, good idea, will do! I used the best 4 pins I had of the 8. When I get it out, (VERY carefully this time ) I'll make sure it's straight.

It would be too much work to convert one of the other side carbs to work in that one. Hope to never find out how hard. Plus, I'd have to get the stripped pilot jet out of the only unbroken one I have left. Two float bowl posts gave their lives so my bike may live

Thanks for all the replies and encouragement! I hope to get pictures of it up soon.