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XJ Steering Head Bearing Replacement

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  • XJ Steering Head Bearing Replacement

    When replacing the old bearings with the new I am looking at the diagram in the manual but seems like something is missing. When I removed the old I had the following:

    1. Cover over the top bearing
    2. Upper bearings and race
    3. Lower bearing and race
    4. Lower dust seal, metal with rubber lip.

    Is that correct or am I missing something. The manual doesn't show the lower dust seal and its not listed in the parts listing on yamaha.com


    Thanks

    Jack
    82 XJ100J Gone
    83 XJ750 Seca

  • #2
    .. you are correct, just remember how to put every thing back the same way you took it apart

    Comment


    • #3
      The factory bearings, mfg by Koyo if memory serves correct, had the dust seal as part of the bearing. It was just a rubber flange to keep the dust and water out.

      You can get by without it, but of course it will mean accelerated lower bearing wear. I drilled and tapped the side of the steering neck to accept a zerts grease fitting when I changed mine. Now I can just give it a couple shots of grease and force any dirt out the lower bearing. Plus, once the neck is full of grease, no water can get in.
      Brian
      1978E Midlife Crisis - A work in progress
      1984 Kawasaki 550 Ltd - Gone, but not forgotten

      A married man should forget his mistakes. There's no use in two people
      remembering the same thing!

      Comment


      • #4
        Steering bearings

        I just got a bearing and seal set from (www.tuckerrocky.com) ,
        the set is labeled "All Balls racing products" (www.allballsracing.com). The kit has both bearings and two different seals. Part number 22-1004, lists for $31.97.
        I also got a set of their wheel bearings and seals. Perfect fit.
        Walt
        80 XS11s - "Landshark"
        79 XS11s
        03 Valkyrie
        80 XS Midnight Special - Freebee 1
        78 Honda CB125C - Freebee 2
        81 Suzuki 850L - Freebee 3

        Comment


        • #5
          They come with a round brass washerlike piece with a rubber lip. That will go on the bottom, lip up.

          One other piece of advice so I don't mess this up. I gently tap the lower bearing onto the stem using the old race, right? Then insert stem into head, apply upper bearing and race, cover and bolt together, just like it came apart. And of course grease everything up prior to assembly. Hi temp waterproof grease is recommended I understand.

          Thanks again,

          Jack
          82 XJ100J Gone
          83 XJ750 Seca

          Comment


          • #6
            careful

            Use the old races to install the new races into the frame.
            I plan to install the bearing on the stem with a brass drift against the inner race. If use use the old bearing race, it may be difficult if not impossible to remove the old race without damaging the new bearing.
            Walt
            80 XS11s - "Landshark"
            79 XS11s
            03 Valkyrie
            80 XS Midnight Special - Freebee 1
            78 Honda CB125C - Freebee 2
            81 Suzuki 850L - Freebee 3

            Comment


            • #7
              Re: Steering bearings

              Are those the tapered roller bearings, or the ball bearing type?

              Originally posted by Hobbit
              I just got a bearing and seal set from (www.tuckerrocky.com) ,
              the set is labeled "All Balls racing products" (www.allballsracing.com). The kit has both bearings and two different seals. Part number 22-1004, lists for $31.97.
              I also got a set of their wheel bearings and seals. Perfect fit.
              Skids (Sid Hansen)

              Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

              Comment


              • #8
                Bearings

                The wheel bearings are ball bearings and the steering stem kit has tapered rooler bearings made by KBC.
                Walt
                80 XS11s - "Landshark"
                79 XS11s
                03 Valkyrie
                80 XS Midnight Special - Freebee 1
                78 Honda CB125C - Freebee 2
                81 Suzuki 850L - Freebee 3

                Comment


                • #9
                  Re: Bearings

                  Thanks! :-)

                  Originally posted by Hobbit
                  The wheel bearings are ball bearings and the steering stem kit has tapered rooler bearings made by KBC.
                  Skids (Sid Hansen)

                  Down to one 1978 E. Stock air box with K&N filter, 81H pipes and carbs, 8500 feet elevation.

                  Comment


                  • #10
                    Take a round file, and file away at the inner race of the old bearing till it will slide nicely on the stem. Then use it to drive the new bearing home.
                    Use a bench grinder , or a file, on the outer side of the old outer race so that it won't stick in the steering head, and use that to help drive in the lower race.
                    "Damn it Jim, I'm a doctor, not a mechanic!' ('Bones' McCoy)

                    Comment


                    • #11
                      Went in pretty easy. Was trying to be REAL GENTLE, sorta tap tap tap but wasn't getting anywhere. You could tap all day and it wouldn't move but when I put some muscle into it, all round the old race it SLOWLY, mm by mm, it seated just fine with no damage.

                      One think I find, the old outer races are still in the head, both top and bottom. Tried to pry them out with a puller, wouldn't budge. They are smooth as a baby's butt, not a scratch on them so I think I will just leave them in place. In fact , the old bearings were the new style, needed greasing but no adjustment would have been necessary. I wonder if I had them replaced when I had a major overhall a couple of years ago. I can't find the paperwork but considering they are the new style, everything worked fine I just ended up causing myself a lot of extra work and expense.

                      I'll just call it a learning tax.

                      Jack
                      82 XJ100J Gone
                      83 XJ750 Seca

                      Comment


                      • #12
                        You can typically knock the old races out from behind...from through the head tube...with a long screwdriver or metal rod...they have a small lip...

                        They really should be changed as a set with the bearings....
                        CUAgain,
                        Daniel Meyer
                        Author. Adventurer. Electrician.
                        Find out why...It's About the Ride.

                        Comment


                        • #13
                          I think the lower race is the difficult one to remove because there is no notch in the 'land' where you can get the punch to get a bite on the race. You will need to use a dremel, or a die grinder, or weld on the race to distort it in order to remove it. Once removed, it is wise to grind a notch into the 'land' in order to access the race next time it needs replacing. The 'land' will be the area inside the steering head tube where the race bottoms out on. Freezing the new races just prior to installation will ease the installation. Make sure to pack the bearings with grease prior to installing.

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