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**prometheus578** · 06-21-2005, 09:09 AM

Hhhmmmm?

As you're aware, the reason to switch to electronic flashers is 'cause the mechanical ones, being activated by the current draw from the light bulbs, just can't function with the reduced draw from the LEDs.
I would figure that any electronic flasher unit would work. Maybe not.
Could it be that your HEAVY DUTY flasher just needs more draw to function? It flashs, but only if you have an incandecient bulb in the circuit.
See if you can take it back(Not likely... electronic component), and get a regular electronic one... not Heavy Duty.
Hey wait.. there was a post a little while back about two pronged flasher units and our three pronghole plug. Try shifting the flasher into the other holes. (I don't have the wiring diagram in front of me, so I can't check, or recall, what the difference is.)

**TopCatGr58** · 06-21-2005, 06:07 PM

Hey Randy,

You need to edit your profile to help us tell which model you have, 79F or SF? In your own post you state you put in 1157 in the front. Unless you've got a Standard 2 wire plus ground running/turn signal housing for the front, then the 1157 probably won't work, wrong plugs on bottom of bulb and not in proper alignment!? If it's an SF, then you would have wanted to get the 1156 bulbs! I'm thinking that since you specifically ordered the1157's that you knew/know that you have the running/turn signal housings!? I just checked Superbrite and the 90 degrees are available in 1156 and 57 in AMBER.

Quick test, take one of the 1156's out of the rear, and put it in the same side in the front as the other rear, and then see if it flashes! IF so, then you know the 1157 is the wrong bulb!

As long as it's an electronic flasher, then it should work with them whether it's HEAVY DUTY or not. That's the purpose of electronic, it doesn't require the heat/load resistance to trigger the flasher, it has internal electronic circuitry that sets the timing, and so it's just a switch flipping on and off. SO...I'm thinking either you have the wrong bulbs, or poor contacts, or misaligned contacts? IF the rear turn signal was working, then you've got it plugged into the proper 2 holes, won't work plugged into the other slot! The 2 prong is the correct one!
T.C.

**RS Thornton** · 03-03-2006, 10:16 PM

Randy,

did you ever get this to work? I am sitting at the same spot as you were and I have just spent a few hours troubleshooting. Bottom line is, all the LEDS and wires are good, but the flasher just does not work with both front and back bulbs converted to LED's. It seems like even the electronic ones need some min current to flash and the LED's are not enough. I was thinking about making a pigtail and running both the rear signals off the same wire to see if that makes it work. If it does I would wire up a pair of left and a pair of right signals on the back all on LED's,

If not I guess I run filament 1156's in the back.

Thanks,
Scott

**LoserShoes** · 03-04-2006, 07:35 AM

It seems like it would be fairly simple circuit to make from a 555 timer and a MosFet. I don't really have the time right now to put something like together and test it, but if someone want to try it I can post a circuit that might work.

Steve

**xschop** · 03-06-2006, 02:08 PM

L.E.D.s

Hey guys, the best(easiest) setup that I know is to use K&S brand #24-0005 electronic blinker with straight led turnsignals. You do not need to put resistors on your signals. that is dangerous. they get very hot. The K&S has quality Digital circuitry in it, other than other brands I,ve seen...$19 in the fat book....chop

**xschop** · 03-06-2006, 02:18 PM

LED FLASHER

THEY MIGHT SAY ELECTRONIC, BUT THEY NEED SOME KIND OF SMALL LOAD ON SOME OF THE BRANDS i'VE SEEN. THIS ONE COULD FLASH ONE L.E.D. IF IT HAD TOO...CHOP

**RS Thornton** · 03-07-2006, 07:36 AM

Thanks, I will hunt one of those up in a few weeks. I have run out of time for now as I am heading to Jacksonville tomorrow. I switched to the electromechanical one and have LEDS up front and in the brake light, but left the rear blinkers as a filament and it works OK with the electromechanical. I did try an fully electronic one but it has the bulb failure circuit and blinks at double speed. I am considering using that, depends on whether I convince myself if I think the faster blink rate creates better visibility by drawing the attention of other drivers.

I went through the vendor catalogue at autozone and we found a fully electronic for LED lights, but the part number would not come up in the computer.

Thanks for the help,
Scott

**TopCatGr58** · 03-07-2006, 05:11 PM

Drawing me towards an answer?

Hey Russ,

Are you trying these LED's in your "E", or your "SF"? What LED bulbs did you get, the 1157 or the 1156? I think Randy's might have been that he got the 1157's, when unless he had the Standard(his profile didn't state what model), the 1157 won't work in the single wired front turn signals that are NOT for both running lights and turn signals??

SO...Russ, if you are trying to use 1157 led bulbs in your SF, it's only designed for 1156, and that may be why they're not working? Just a thought!

I was just reviewing the stats for the LED bulbs, they have something like 30 leds in one bulbs!! Yet, their draw is only about 0.068 amps for 1156, or 0.021/0.072 amps for the 1157 combo running/turn signal bulb.

In mine, I used the amber clearance marker lights, with only 12 bulbs in each, but the SUPERBRIGHT ones are rated at 0.083 amps. I'll confess, when I did mine, I got them from another distributor that isn't in business anymore, but I could have sworn that they were only rated at 0.030 amps!!?? So...the "other" brand actually have less draw than the superbrights, yet my signals work flawlessly with the electro-mechanical flasher, the TRIDENT brand!? So I can't understand why you're having this much trouble?!
T.C.

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Which flasher to use with LED's?

Which flasher to use with LED's?

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