Head work

[fabriqueprecis]

Well, I got my "new" head off of e-bay. Hmm.... Can't complain for what I paid for it, but definitely not a "bolt-on". Started messing with it and realized that I need to send this head to someone who knows what they're doing and has the tools to do a valve job and anything else that might come up.

Any suggestions on a quality shop that can do this?

Thanks.

[Czekus21]

I would ask around at some of your autoparts stores for names and addresses of reputable machine shops. If you have a Sturdevants Auto. They usually have a machine shop or know of one.

[fabriqueprecis]

Head R&R

I looked locally first - scary. Has anyone had any experience with a place called National Cylinder Head in CA? Looks like they do more heads in a day than anyone around here sees in 10 years. I want someone who has some experience - not looking to give someone a toy to practise with.
Also, I want someone who will not say "A head off of what?? Man, why don't you just get a new bike?" I'm so sick of that attitude, I'm about ready to slug the next f****r that tells me that.

[Hobbit]

Head work

I used to do a lot of business (20 years ago) with a place in California called Valley Head Service. Their work was excellent and reasonable.
They do a lot of head work for drag racers.
Try this link:
http://www.valleyhead.com/

[pggg]

Fab, why don't you just get a new bike?

[fabriqueprecis]

Tranquility now!

OK pggg - got the message. I'm calmed-down now - ready to get back to work on getting my XS up and running!

[pggg]

Hey Fab, it was too good to resist. A lot of people want to slug me. Ha Ha. Actually what "head work" does it need? If the valve stems are black with oil, you're looking at some new seals for a start. Other than that, there's probably not much else needs doing? A port job where they grind and re-shape the inlets and outlets for a more efficient flow - will cost a fair few bucks.

[fabriqueprecis]

Head work

First, it needs to be disassembled and cleaned - but my valve-spring compressor can't handle these recessed valves. I'd need to get some kind of hollow spacer with a window in it so I can compress the spring and then reach in there and get the keepers out. Once everything is clean, I'd try to lap-in the valves (by hand) and if they clean up she'd probably be good to go.

[xssiveone]

Re: Head work

Originally posted by fabriqueprecis
First, it needs to be disassembled and cleaned - but my valve-spring compressor can't handle these recessed valves. I'd need to get some kind of hollow spacer with a window in it so I can compress the spring and then reach in there and get the keepers out. Once everything is clean, I'd try to lap-in the valves (by hand) and if they clean up she'd probably be good to go.

I used a simple C-clamp and a piece of pipe, actually a short piece of gas pipe. Cut a notch in one end so I could reach in and pull the valve keepers out with needle nose pliers. I think I got the idea from Ken Talbot but I couldn't see it on his web page.

[Ken Talbot]

.. just gotta know where to look

[xssiveone]

Thanks Ken. Was hoping you could fill in the blanks.

fabriqueprecis, if you use the gas nipple, as I did, make sure you remove the threads, if any, from the end that contacts the valves. Don't want to scratch the inside of the valve follower cavity.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there FabriquesPrecis,

Here's a couple of rough photos of the tool I used to do my head work! Now that I have a welder, I would have tacked it onto the end of my C-clamp to make handling it easier, less chance for slipping and such! Just took IIRC, some 1" pipe, and took a hacksaw to it, although a cutoff disc on a Dremmel would do a nice job also, just tried to keep the remaining edge a bit larger than 180 degrees worth of arc, also helped to keep it from tilting.


T.C.

[fabriqueprecis]

Awesome

I was toying with some 3/4 conduit and came up with basically the same thing, but it's nice to see that I'm not out on a limb and that this idea really does work.

The plan:

I have a bead blaster, and intend to use some fine glass beads to clean the valves (not the stems) and seats. There is some rust.

I'll use a brass "toothbrush" and some of that nasty carb soak to clean the chambers and ports - I've found that this stuff dissolves just about anything but metal.

Then I'll lap-in the valves (by hand). If they wont lap-in, then something's bent or really messed up, so I'm screwed.

What do you guys who've been there and done that think of this?

I intend to put all the valve parts back into the places where they came out of, although I'm not really sure why this is important.

It seems to me that the bucket eliminates practically all the side load on the valvestem, so the guides should last a long time. Neat design.

There is some light scoring on the cam bearing surfaces. The cam seems to ride right in the aluminum (?). It is slight, so I'm going to try and run it. Any comments on this?

I'm reading the threads about setting lash and finding shims etc... Doesn't look too hard.

I wouldn't even think about attempting this without this forum!

[TopCatGr58]

Hey there FP,

Hand lapping is what I did to mine. SOME folks say you should ONLY have them machine ground?? I got over 180psi after I put mine back together, so it must have worked ok! Getting the old valve seals off was a little fun, you'll end up just squishing them with a pair of needle nose pliers as you pull them off. Then put some oil on the new ones as you gently press them on/in by hand/finger! I took a wire drill brush bit to my valve stems, just where the carbon had built up, didn't think about the carb cleaner!DOH! I used a dull knife and such to scrape out as much carbon from the combustion chamber as I could, but again, your idea of cleaner should work fine!

One of my cam bearing caps also had a touch of light scoring on it, but the cam itself wasn't scored, checked to make sure the oil flow openings were open, then put it back together, been fine for 4 years now!

Again, be VWERY careful with that low value torque wrench in torquing the cam cap nuts to 7 ft/lbs. What you'll find when you try to put the cams back in is that you won't be able to put the nuts and washers on the end cap that is hitting against a lobe/valve keeping the cam elevated. You'll need to gently tighten the other 4 sets a few turns each just enough to push the cam down into the bearing seat a bit so that the final cap will clear the studs enough to let you get the washers and nuts on, then you can even out the cam and cap pressures as you slowly push the cam down into ALL of the bearing seats!

I didn't have that special valve clearance tool, so I measured my clearances before removing the cams, then found the values of the shims, did the calculations and then after putting it all back together replacing and swapping shims as needed, they were well within tolerances!! Keep at it, you're doing fine!
T.C.

[lsippell]

Hey T.C.

I made a tool like yours but I went ahead and welded it to the c-clamp after trying it once without it welded. It works so good I welded it on better when I was done so I now have a permanent valve spring compressor.

Louis