Balky throttle cable

[EHLawyer]

1979 XS1100 special unused for several years.......time to get it going, again, and I'm sure this will be the first of many stupid questions.........Not a real motor guy, but handy and interested in fixing what I can myself..........The throttle handle seemed to be frozen..........lubricated the cable with 10W30 oil.......now the handle turns, but cable does not retract instantly, have to turn it back by hand. Problem with the cable or the handle itself? Thanks.

[Chaluska]

you mean the throttle doesnt snap back to the idle/no throttle position?.. i have this problem also, I almost want to say it has to do with the cable just not being lubed enough.

[EHLawyer]

Originally posted by Chaluska
you mean the throttle doesnt snap back to the idle/no throttle position?.. i have this problem also, I almost want to say it has to do with the cable just not being lubed enough.

That's exactly right. Since it didn't move at all, and now its sluggish I thought that perhaps the 10W30 was too thick. I assume that all of the tension comes from the cable itself, and not from the handle.

[Chaluska]

10w30 isnt too thick... but, i would have used WD-40.. my bike isnt at my house right now, so i cant go play around with it.. but with mine, i kinda have to "assist" it to go back to neutral.. I will keep you updated as to what i find out.. but i suggest spraying WD40 on the cable, the carbs (the return springs for the throttle linkage).. anything the cable connects to..

i also was wondering if there was a spring under the handlebar that returns it to the closed position..?

[prometheus578]

Check to see if the cable is binding anywhere. I consider 10w30 sort of thick and sticky, where as WD40 is thin and lubes nicely, but evaporates too quickly. There are silicon cable lubes that work very well, and even regular Chain Lube works wonders.
Also check that the cable isn't too tight. When adjusting the cable tension, there should still be a little slack left in the handgrip. Many times it's too tight(no looseness in the grip), and that can cause binding. Also, if the cable's too tight, when you turn the handlebars to the right, you can hear the engine rev as the cable then pulls on the carb linkage.
The only spring present is at the carb.
Also... you can take the grip off and remove the old, gummed up grease on the handlebar and relube that, too.
Use WD40 in the cable to break loose the rust, and then follow with a good lube.

[Meista007]

I would not use WD-40, it attracts dirt and will become even worse over time. You can buy a new cable for $10-$15

[EHLawyer]

Originally posted by Meista007
I would not use WD-40, it attracts dirt and will become even worse over time. You can buy a new cable for $10-$15

Are cables "standard size"? Difficult to replace? Thanks

[fxrer]

Hi EH,

Having been “unused for several years”, the problem may not be the cable, but perhaps the carbs (butterfly throttle plates) are so gummed up that the spring return cannot overcome the resistance. This would dictate a total carb cleaning - THE BIG job when restoring and renovating old XS’s. Do a search on carburetors and you will be overwhelmed by the number of posts concerning problems with these monsters.

Before you do anything, it’s easy to test the cable itself. Just disconnect it at the carburetor link. Very easy - just relieve spring tension by rotating the carb linkage upward, then push the cable’s little cylindrical end cap to the left and it will slide out of the connector. Of course you need to remove, or at least lift the tank to get access. This is all clearly explained in the Clymer manual (you do have one, I hope?).

Once the cable is disconnected from the carb throttle linkage, you can operate the handlebar grip and note any drag, binding, friction etc. If your problem IS the cable, you will feel it

But my guess is it that will be free, and your problem lies with the gummed up carbs.

Good luck and keep asking questions!