Hello all, I have questions :D

[JWSanders]

Hi all, just picked up a XS1100SG for $400 USD.

It was in pretty decent shape considering it has sat outside for the last several years, but its going to need a a little love. Hope to have it running in the next coupla weeks. I'll try to get a picture of it in it's present condition posted here soon.

Noticed there were a couple of people here from TN. I'm near the Nashville area myself, just wanted to say howdy.


These repair guides will be a valuable asset in getting it up to speed again. Taking apart the carbs today. I'm hopeful I wont need many parts. The internal condition of the engine and gas tank has been a wonderful suprise. 7 years outside and just a tiny bit of surface rust on the outside and inside of the tank. It appeared to have been parked with a full tank of gas. There was still a little left in the tank.

The oil in the motor is still clear, and inspection with a flashlight in the oil cap (which shined on the inside like new metal) shows no buildup whatsoever. Shiny metal everywhere. I was quite happy about that!


It seems that the boots might need to be replaced though. Many cracks in them. Provided I can get them off without destroying them, I have an idea involving JBweld that might make them salvageable. Has anyone here tried coating the entire ouside surface of the carb boots with JB weld (the 24 hour 2-part epoxy, not the qwik or the putty) to seal/strengthen them? Would it be too stiff? I know it will have good heat and chemical resistance. I was even considering painting them with it in place while they're on the intake to make sure the shape stays intact before removing them.

There are ways to keep the holes intact for the bolts to go back through. I've used JB Weld for a myriad of fixes, and it's rarely failed me. Just curious to see if this might work too.


Damn things are expensive, and I want to get rolling as soon as I can. I'm really liking the idea of using fat boy pipes on the exhaust, as my mufflers are shot, but the headers are in good shape. I've even looked at other slip ons here locally that may do the job as well on the cheap. Which leads me to another question...does the exhaust balancer pipe between the two mufflers need to be there? It's ground clearance is horrid.

[Hobbit]

Welcome JW

Greetings and congratulations.
First of all, you sure came to the right place for information. Check the tech tips area on the left of your screen, or do a search from the tab on the top for any type of information.
There are plenty people here that are willing to help.
As for your carb boots, most of the time the cracks are surface cracks and can be filled with liquid rubber. I wouldn't use JB weld due to the fact that you need some flexibility in that area.
Good luck.

[MAXIMAN]

I certainly would put JB weld or any sealant on the inside. If it flaked off you'd suck it in your engine.

I saw a guy cut bicycle intertube and slipped it on the outside of intake boots before.

[don07tncav]

Hey JW, Nashville Bill is over your way and he is awealth of information and a great person to ask questons of. Even though he's turned traitor and is riding another bike now he still has an XS!!

I'm an hour from Jackson and there's another guy that I know of over twords Memphis.

This is an excellent site to help you get the beast back on the road.

[JWSanders]

Hey all, thanks for the replies.

As it turns out, the carb boots are fine, just some surface cracks but the throttle is frozen up. Gonna soak it.

Still turning out to be a good investment. Can't wait to get it running.

[TopCatGr58]

Hey JW,

I hope your'e still on line and checking replies! STOP, READ The tech tips on the carbs THOROUGHLY before attacking them! DON'T SOAK the entire carbs in cleaner, you'll dissolve the butterfly seals, and any other rubber parts still attached. Don't separate the carbs from the bank, just take one apart at a time, and use the others as guides to putting it back together as you go! Welcome to the group, hope you get it running soon, but make sure it's safely reconditioned, brakes, tires, ALL OILS... even though it can look nice and clear, oils oxidize with age, so it's still recommended that you replace them ALL, the engine, Middle and Final drives, front forks. Thoroughly flush the brake lines and rebleed. Check the tires date stamps, and inspect closely for age cracks in the sidewalls....tire rubber gets hard and slippery with age....not good for those nice twisty mountain roads of Tenn. Inspect the Fuse Box, and clean ALL of the electrical connections! Many electrical gremlins can be cured with just good cleaning!!

Your stuck throttle may be a poorly lubed, or dried up lube in the cable, and not the carbs themselves?!?! Check the clutch cable as well, and adjust at the engine case, per the instructions. Put some inline fuel filters on the fuel lines, micro rust particles play havoc with the carbs!! Before turning it over, pull the plugs, and put some MM oil in the cylinders to help coat the top end and let it soak a while. After sitting for years, even garaged, rust can form inside the cylinders, usually 1 valve is open to atmosphere at all time, either intake or exhaust!

After changing the oils, keep the plugs pulled, and just spin the engine with the starter for 10 second intervals, wait 15 second, then hit it again, until you can see the engine oil light go out! Then you know you've reached enough pressure to get oil back up into the top of the engine, head, cams, etc., putting lube back up there before putting it thru the stress of actually running!!

[JWSanders]

Well, checked this late, but had a friend advise me not to soak it either, so I didn't. I had planned to use gasoline/2 stroke oil mix, rather than caarb cleaner though. I want to reuse as much of the rubber as possible. I'm happy the carb boots aren't going to be a problem...a little RTV sealant around them (as described here) and they should be just fine.

Taking apart the carbs is a real bear...most of the screws are rusted on well and are refusing to come off. They are phillips head screws, and are wanting to strip, as well. Gonna replace all those with SS allen heads, for sure. Will likely have to drill some of them out. Liquid wrench and WD-40 have done nothing for them. Might try one of the other penetrating oils and some good lock pliers before I go that route though. The throttle cable is working dandily. The throttle rod that works all the butterflies barely moves...need to pull it all apart to see why not.

I wasn't planning on keeping any of the original oils in it. Drained the engine today and was happy to see very clean oil come out though. Lubed the cylinders and gave the engine a few spins, too....smooth as silk. The guy I bought it from was only the second owner of it and took really good care of it before he had to park it. Now that I'm getting it running again he's lamenting selling it to me. He's constantly swore how smooth and fast the bike was when it was running.

As for the tires, brake lines, pads, and such, that's all going to be new before I'm done. Looks like I'll be replacing the front master cylinder, it's warped some and the cover screws are firmly locked up. I've been considering using SS tubing as described in one of the guides here.

There's several things I'd be willing to compromise on, but the things that might keep me alive aren't one of them.


I'm still quite pleased with the overall condition of the bike. So far, the carbs and mufflers appear to be my only engine related mechanical problems. Will have a lot of cosmetic work to do, but that's only after I get to ride it first!

Thanks again for all the advice. I'll keep posting as to how it's going.

Just remembered too, the bike's only got just over 26k miles on it.

[Ken Talbot]

The secret to getting those $%# phillips screws out is to use an impact driver like this one made by Snap On:


The rest of the page is here With this tool, the force of the hammer keeps the screwdriver end firmly on the screw as torque is appplied. This should be a mandatory item in the toolbox of anybody who works on Japanese motorcycles.

[GNEPIG]

....and amarican bikes, goes in same drawer with the hamer and chisel [hamer and chisel standard harley tools]

[JWSanders]

Originally posted by Ken Talbot
The secret to getting those $%# phillips screws out is to use an impact driver like this one made by Snap On:


The rest of the page is here With this tool, the force of the hammer keeps the screwdriver end firmly on the screw as torque is appplied. This should be a mandatory item in the toolbox of anybody who works on Japanese motorcycles.

Yeah, was going to go by harbor frieght and get one. Figured Id need it for the case bolts If I ever decide to replace them. They're rusty, and you can get a fully polished set on Ebay for under 20 dollars. Didn't stop to think it would work fine for phillips, too. Hopefully that will do the trick. Thanks!

[prometheus578]

Prior to using the impact driver on those phillips screw heads, get a little coarse valve lapping compound and place a dab on the end of the screw driver. The grit of the compound stops the screwdriver from jumping out of the screwhead. If that fails, then go for the impact. If that fails... then drill them out.
Pass on the impact from harbor freight, and go for one by Snap On or Mac tools. (Or get the harbor freight driver, but pick up a #2 phillips head bit from the other tool makers) Their screwdriver bit is better machined, and fits the screw better. Same goes for screwdrivers, in general.
Most of my tools are Craftsman... But my #2 phillips are always MAC. The tip is just designed to fit better.

[Czekus21]

after smearing rtv on the intake boots. Spray paint them. They'll look alot better. Make sure you paint them BEFORE reinstalling them. Not that I would know this first hand.

[John]

Instead of using RTV on the boots, try using some Plasti-Dip on them. If you aren't familiar with it, it is made for dipping tool handles in to give them a rubberized coating. It comes in a thick liquid or in a spray can. It will flow out much smoother than RTV, and you can get it in different colors. I got mine at NAPA auto parts store.
Here is a link to the product: http://www.usplastic.com/catalog/pro...duct%5Fid=2363

[DiverRay]

One last trick for the "stuck" screws. Use a hack saw to cut a slot in the head, and use the strait bit on the ompact hammer if the phillips head has stripped. I've used this many times, even on a VW FWD with a stripped TORX head. Works great!

[XSDADDY]

Hey JW,

Glad too see another XS owner here in TN. I'm a little North of you in White House. Let me know when you get yours running and we can do some riding. If you have any trouble let me know and I'll see if I can help out...I've had the carbs on my XS11 Special apart many times.

XSDADDY