Rear Brake Problem

[pathfinder]

Ok I need major help on my rear brakes. Bike is a 78E. I have done this a few times before with no major problems except the time it takes to bleed. Never have had to rebuild M/C till now on the rear but have on the front. This is driving me nuts.

1) In what order does the rear M/C kit go together from the rod end?
I installed rubber in the groove with cup pointed toward the spring, thin flat washer against the plunge rod where the four holes are, other rubber against washer pointed toward spring, metal cup on pin for small end of spring. Not sure about the washer it is not shown anywhere I can find. When I say pointed I mean larger end toward the spring.

2) Cleaned resivsore and all passages

3) Bench bled, no real pressure, Took back apart to make sure nothing had moved and also did a visual on the bore, no pitts or scratches. Put back together, no change after bench bleeding again.

4) Made sure pedal height had correct free play

5) Rebuilt caliper, cleaned out piston bore and everywhere else. Saw in an old post somewhere on the list about the o-ring in the piston bore could be installed backwards, is that true?

6) Running DOT 5 (10 years) using a Mity-Vac to bleed. Pulled about a pint thru with no change in color to the fluid. i.e. no dirt or crud.

7) I am using smaller line than comes with the Mity-Vac and have used a piece of wire to seal at the speed bleeder, just to be sure. With bleeder closed it will hold 17lbs of vacumn untill you get tired of waitng for it to leak.

8) I have to pull about 14 lbs of vacumn to get the fluid to move.

8) Rotor was turned down to the minimum spec of 6.5mm.

I get absolutely no resistance on the brake pedal and no grab on the rotor at all.

I have checked for leaks on the banjo washers with a piece of paper, it comes back dry. Also checked the lines for any leaks, none found.

Checked for leaks everywhere else to no avail.

No fluid is leaking that I can find.

Still no pedal, and will not even slow the rear wheel when on the centerstand

Parts installed are listed below.

Part #29-3522 Brake Pad Set ( Metal piece that mounts in the caliper is not made of the correct material so it bends with no spring action, went back to original.)
Part #29-0503 Caliper Speed Bleed Screw
Part #08-0257 Banjo Bolt
Part #08-0258 Banjo Bolt Washers
Part #29-0017 Rubber caliper sleeve Boot
https://www.mikesxs.net/mikesxs-chas...ategory_id=1.2


08-0216 MASTER CYLINDER REBUILD KIT - Rear
29-0516 BRAKE CALIPER PISTON
29-0016 CALIPER REBUILD KIT
https://www.partsnmore.com/cat_index...tegory=chassis

Stainless Steel Brake Lines from Randy (one year old)

Please, see if I have have forgotten anything or screwed up on assy.

If you have any questions about what I have done, please ask.

Oh yeah I hate the brakes on this bike.

[randy]

Dave,

Just a thought, but if you had removed the brake pedal, when you put it back, it has to be indexed properly on the pivot in order to get the most effective travel at the M/C. There's a notch on the pedal and a dot on the pivot rod. Line 'em up.

Also, try adjusting the actuator rod so the piston will move a bit deeper, you can back it off later after you successfully bleed. This worked for me.

This is a common trouble with the rear M/C. It's not as bad as the front, but it's bad.

[pathfinder]

Notch is lined up, I'll try setting the rod a little deeper tonight.

[ratbyk]

Rear Brake

If you cannot get pressure at the master while bench bleeding you certainly won't with it mounted on the bike. Pull the cylinder back off and get it so that you can create line pressure on the bench. If not successful it must be assembled wrong.
Once you get it so that you are getting pressure on the bench put all the lines etc. back on. Put everything together EXCEPT don't mount the master on the bike. Bleed again now using a Philip's screw driver or similar tool as the push rod. With the master in this situation you can tilt it to different angles to get all air trapped in the cylinder up to where the line hooks on. You should then be able to bleed out the system. Once line pressure is established, remount the cylinder on the bike.
Ken/Sooke

[cajun31]

Pump the brake pedal very fast, holding it down on the las pump and bleed the caliper. Continue doing this. Mine did this and eventually you get all the air out and you will begin feeling pressure.

[pathfinder]

figured it out

Well after many hours or trying to figure it out, it turned out to be the banjo bolt washers. I bought what the dealer said they were supposed to be. I went to a different dealer last week and he gave me some about half the thickness. The problem was they were thicker than what I had used before and did not get a good crush. I took them apart back in October for the restore and forgot the thickness untill I saw the right ones.

Went back to the original dealer and the apoligized for giving me a substitute. The hole and the diameter were the same but thicker, they did not think it would matter. Bull C#*p. By the way no credit was offered at $2.00 each. I haven't taken my bike to a shop in 15 years, now it getting to the point that you can't even get the right parts from them.